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View Full Version : Weekend sump removal/fitting work


James_H
02-03-2007, 09:20 AM
What a nightmare this little job was last weekend - fixing a leaking sump.:cry:

Ive spent two weeks getting the OE parts needed in order to make a good job of re-sealing the sump as I had a slight oil leak.:mad:

All done and dusted now, but getting the down pipe off and actually getting the old sealent off the sump and block was a nightmare, even with sealant removal stuff.:mad:

I had to spend about 2 hours carefully scrapping the remaining sealent from the sump/block to get it super clean ready for a nice clean fit of new sealent - it has to be very very clean btw.

Not sure if anyones done one recently or planning to, but as usual expect a few problems such as the sealent one, getting the bolt half way down the down pipe off (one that mounts with spring to gearbox - this one is a particular pain as they are thread locked) and the usual putting the exhaust back together and actually getting it sealing well.

Any how, to ensure all went smoothy I purchased the following.
1) 16 sump bolts + 3 nuts (dont ask how much !)
2) New exhaust to mani gasket (already got a new cat to d/pipe one)
3) New spring and bolt mounting for d/pipe
4) 3 x new d/pipe to mani bolts and 3 x studs.
5) Gasket Sealent (high temp OIL RESISTANT)

sorry no pics, (pissed off by this one) I took them and saved them and now the disc is shagged.
:)

G-Dub
02-03-2007, 10:58 AM
I'm about to replace my downpipe due to a crack James - any tips?

Big Jazzle
02-03-2007, 11:02 AM
why did you have problems removing the downpipe/gearbox bolt?

James_H
02-03-2007, 11:26 AM
why did you have problems removing the downpipe/gearbox bolt?


Its a long bolt with 2 lots of thread - the gearbox thread is thread locked with compound - as to get it out of the box you need to use either a 6mm (old design) or 8mm (newer bolts) extended socket or spanner.

Its pretty easy to see why its a pain, the thread on the gearbox end of the bolt/stud is something like an M8 and to get that un-done with just a 6mm spanner or socker with limited access is quite annoying. Especially when its that tight it snaps your weedy 6mm socket.

I think thats why the new stud/bolt I brought they had changed the design to accept a 8mm socket or spanner.

Any how, unless you take all the studs from the manifold to d/pipe bit you have to have this bolt/stud out to get the down pipe out the way.

My tip would be have a good 6mm or 8mm extended socket for th d/pipe mounting stud, use new parts when re-fitting everything so they last and you save time using nice new clean parts (not old rusty worn parts) and have the car in a good position to work under.

TomH
02-03-2007, 11:32 AM
Defiantly use a deep socket on the mentioned bolt as james says, a spanner will just chew it up and its unbelievably tight!

I now also have the 8mm design one as i snapped the old one trying to remove it it was that tight into the box ! Remember to stud lock it back in as well !

I used some halfords deep sockets, i tried origionally with a spanner but it just made a mess. :(

G-Dub
02-03-2007, 11:35 AM
Any chance of part numbers James? Just for the downpipe bits

James_H
02-03-2007, 11:52 AM
Any chance of part numbers James? Just for the downpipe bits

im at work but I can post them later for you.

Worth using all new parts, my total was around 20 inc the sump bits.

The 3 nuts and studs are pennies (for the d/pipe to mani), the gasket is around 3 quid.

Also If you dont have a newish one get the cat to d/pipe gasket kit for around 15 quid too!.

James_H
02-03-2007, 11:53 AM
Defiantly use a deep socket on the mentioned bolt as james says, a spanner will just chew it up and its unbelievably tight!

I now also have the 8mm design one as i snapped the old one trying to remove it it was that tight into the box ! Remember to stud lock it back in as well !

I used some halfords deep sockets, i tried origionally with a spanner but it just made a mess. :(

Im glad im not the only one!!

Its a huge thread for such a small bolt, crazy design.

SLIK
02-03-2007, 11:57 AM
I did this a year or two ago, the sump had been badly sealed in the factory and there was a section of sealant missing.

Took me about 4 hours to get through the job, I gave up on the gearbox bolt and cut the flywheel shield away from it, it refitted fine afterwards with the other fixing. I inspected the oil pump too and I think I had a couple of the main caps off to inspect the bearings. Getting enough clearance to get the sump off was a nightmare, I managed to get away with only lowering the downpipe as I couldn't get it off easily.

James_H
02-03-2007, 12:30 PM
I did this a year or two ago, the sump had been badly sealed in the factory and there was a section of sealant missing.

Took me about 4 hours to get through the job, I gave up on the gearbox bolt and cut the flywheel shield away from it, it refitted fine afterwards with the other fixing. I inspected the oil pump too and I think I had a couple of the main caps off to inspect the bearings. Getting enough clearance to get the sump off was a nightmare, I managed to get away with only lowering the downpipe as I couldn't get it off easily.

I eyed up the lowering only but it seemed impossible.

With the sump right off it was very easy to clean and re-seal.

Cant believe how much of a pain is was.