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-   -   New rear axle (http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2008/showthread.php?t=95314)

moult 10-08-2017 03:19 PM

New rear axle
 
Hi guys...

Just purchased a new rear axle from IM. Going to swap it over at the weekend, I've changed axles before but haven't had to remove the rear hubs.
Is there any thing I need to look out for ? Will I require a puller !?

Thanks

MHR1294 11-08-2017 09:32 PM

The drums should come off with a hammer. this may split the wheel bearing.

If you need to swap the stub pins that the bearing sits on, it simply hammers out. the end of it is dimpled for hammering out with a drift. don't just hit the end with a hammer or it'll mushroom.

You can cheat and do what I did, to remove the drum simply hammer the stub pin back with the drum still on after removing the nut. this stops the bearing from splitting! ;)

Everything else is bolt on.

VeiRoN 12-08-2017 09:35 AM

Three legged puller for the hub yes.

moult 12-08-2017 09:56 AM

Hammering that stub pin through sounds a decent method.

moult 18-08-2017 07:51 PM

Right guys !
Removed the old beam today... goin to replace the brake lines as there slightly corroded. The brake bias value looks like it's seen better days as well but don't really wana buy a new 1 of them. Unsure if it seized cause it isn't under tension cause it's off the car but the bolt is loose to the spring. Has any1 bypassed this ?
Another question I have is are the rear brake protectors needed ? Mine are old and pretty bent ?

Any help would be great ! Thanks

MHR1294 29-08-2017 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moult (Post 873980)
Right guys !
Removed the old beam today... goin to replace the brake lines as there slightly corroded. The brake bias value looks like it's seen better days as well but don't really wana buy a new 1 of them. Unsure if it seized cause it isn't under tension cause it's off the car but the bolt is loose to the spring. Has any1 bypassed this ?
Another question I have is are the rear brake protectors needed ? Mine are old and pretty bent ?

Any help would be great ! Thanks

Yeah I've no problem using discs with no compensator/bias valve. I also don't run backing plates and not had any issues so far.

I think the lack of compensator is only an issue if you swap the master cylinder to a 2 port one. I've heard the back and front end likes to switch places when braking hard! :p

welshpug 30-08-2017 07:31 AM

Those valves always look crusty as hell, all you need to do is lube up the pivot and work it till its free, very rare that the piston in them seizes up.

I would not recommend dispensing with it without altering the system to a front-rear split with a manual bias valve.

you'll be fine without the covers.


make sure your new beam has the same length stub pin and torsion & roll bar sizes, and budget in for new bearings next year.

VeiRoN 30-08-2017 11:12 AM

When does the stub pin length changes?

welshpug 30-08-2017 03:01 PM

drum to disc.

VeiRoN 30-08-2017 04:26 PM

Right,I was a bit confused as I thought you meant the pin on the axle itself and not on the trailing arm as measured mine drum to disc and they were the same and was under the impression they are all the same.

MHR1294 30-08-2017 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN (Post 874030)
Right,I was a bit confused as I thought you meant the pin on the axle itself and not on the trailing arm as measured mine drum to disc and they were the same and was under the impression they are all the same.

Measured what drum to disc?

The pin is the one that the wheel bearing sits on. they're about an inch different in length. the disc one being longer. :D

The main axle tubes are all the same, yes. With the "pin" that the main axle bearings run on. they're the same length.

VeiRoN 30-08-2017 05:27 PM

Yes correct,I measured mine that was disc (faulty) to drum from a 1.1 106 (replacement part).


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