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-   -   Cris Bloomfield - 106 Rallye S2 8v (http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2008/showthread.php?t=82053)

Cris B 21-08-2011 09:31 PM

Cris Bloomfield - 106 Rallye S2 8v
Seeing as there are now two cars I thought I would start a second thread for this mini project.

The car itself is a standard S2 White Rallye, on 117k, it has no mot or tax. It has some service history but not much at all. The car starts and drives first time every time and runs nicely. In all it’s a bit of an unknown quantity and this was reflected in the price I pay for it.


The car is totally standard and is the rare power steering model of the S2 Rallye. No issues of rust under the bonnet from inspection which is surprising, but taking a look at the problem areas elsewhere on the car reveals some work with the welder will be necessary to get it through an MOT. The true state of the shell will only become clear once it has had a good clean up.

With a car at this price, the car is by no means mint condition, so here’s a summary of the bad points that will form a to do list for this project.
  • The car has rust on one side of the boot and both the driver and passenger side chassis rail gussets have been used as jacking points and are buggered.
  • No stereo – I have a standard Peugeot head unit somewhere...
  • Passenger door needs some love as it is badly dented. Looks like someone repeated opened it against a lamp post.
  • Drivers door lock has been forced so does not lock from the outside.
  • On start up, slightly smokey, but runs fine once warmed up.
  • Front bumper on one corner is scuffed and needs spraying to be mint
  • Rear ARB is loose as one of the nuts has sheared

Car came with a load of spares including a new rear bumper. It’s currently sitting on a terrible set of wheels, so I am on the look out for a set of S2 Rallye steelies to get it looking good again.

Okay first job! Tackle those two chassis rail gussets that are goosed. Off side gets the treatment first. So here the progress so far. Car's now up on axle stands...

Initial Inspection:

Pick off the loose underseal:

Wire brush the rest with a twisted knot brush on the angle grinder:

Had to take the ARB off at this point, but it didn't want to leave the two drop links. I managed to loosen the nuts on the threads, but couldn't get them completely off. The hex head fixings in the bottom of the drop links are made of cheese, so I had to cut the drop links off with a slit disc.

Cut off the chassis rail gusset

Then cut out the rotten section of the chassis rail itself

That's it for today.

Dan! 21-08-2011 09:42 PM

Looks like you've got something to keep you busy for a good while! :D you going to get it sprayed at all?

Cris B 21-08-2011 10:10 PM


Originally Posted by Dan! (Post 773377)
Looks like you've got something to keep you busy for a good while! :D

Hope not! The aim is to get in on the road at the beginning of September so I have two weeks and the clock is ticking ;)

Dan! 21-08-2011 10:32 PM


Originally Posted by Cris B (Post 773378)
Hope not! The aim is to get in on the road at the beginning of September so I have two weeks and the clock is ticking ;)

Get to work! :P Good luck anyway!

jameshilton 22-08-2011 11:39 AM

Ah I always fancied a power steering fitted S2 for a second car. Nice find, hope it proves not too expensive to sort out.

Cris B 24-08-2011 09:24 PM

No updates for a few days. but that doesn't mean no progress. Decided yesterday that a bit more needed chopping out:


Cleaned it up with a wire wheel and etch primed it.


Started making a chassis rail repair section. Utter PITA having to go under the car everytime and adjustment was made to make sure it would fit. Much bending and shaping later got there! Tonight finished welding it in. There was still a bit to do after this.


It was my first time welding under the car (which is on axle stands) and it is not easy to see what you are doing even with an industrial Halogen work lamp giving plenty of light. Still survived with no burns ;) Then cracked on and ground down the welds ready to repair the gusset section:


With that finished sprayed it up with etch primer. Then started work on the next repair section, have cut it our of the sheet and now just need to start shaping it to fit.

Cris B 26-08-2011 10:00 PM

Finished the offside repair tonight by welding in the gusset repair section. Tricky section to fabricate, but luckily I had carefully removed the original damaged gusset so could use that as a guide.


Then ground down the welds. For reference swaging the holes is important for getting the plugs to fit in correctly...


Over the weekend I will get the repair treated in POR15. I have ordered some U-Pol Gravitex so I can make good the repair and patch up the stone chip underseal. To finish it off I will top coat to complete the repair. Then need to start on the near side.

Cris B 27-08-2011 09:28 PM

Finally went through the paperwork for the car today and discovered that in 2007 it had an MOT advisory on the chassis rail gusset on the near side. Kind of wish one of the previous owners had tackled it before it came as bad as it is now. Crushed metal, underseal and regular exposure to water and salt is recipe for bodywork disaster. Here's why:

Initial inspection

Picked off the loose underseal

Twisted knot brush on the angle grinder started to reveal the extent of the rot

Started cutting out the rot, but only revealed more problems

Decided that it was easier to reconstruct the chassis rail gusset off the car so removed the whole panel. It also allowed me to properly chop out the rot from the chassis rail itself. All cleaned up and sprayed in etch primer tonight last thing.

Next jobs are to fabricate up the repair sections and get them welded back onto the car. No way it would have passed the MOT this year without this issue being addressed. To be honest I am amazed it passed in 2009 (last test the car went through).

dunc 29-08-2011 05:48 PM


Have you looked under the rest of the shell to see the total damage yet?

Cris B 29-08-2011 09:43 PM


Originally Posted by dunc (Post 774236)

Have you looked under the rest of the shell to see the total damage yet?

Yes other than the two damaged gussets and the known issue in the rear arch on one side it is looking in good condition particularly in the inner arches of the bay.

Right progress from the last few days. N/S chassis rail section in primer.


Fabricated up a repair section for the chassis rail. Utter, utter bastard complex shape to get right, but made it spot on in the end.


Removed the passenger seat, lifted the carpet and moved the fuel line out of the way and away from any heat. Unfortunately found wet bulkhead soundproofing so I suspect that the heater matrix is shagged or there is a leaky connection in there somewhere. Dash needs to come out anyway for some other work, but another job to add to the list.

Chassis rail repair section welded into place - just need to grind down the welds now.


Started repairing the chassis rail gusset section. Quite tricky this as you need to maintain the shape of the original as the repair sections are added in.


Sourced a full set of Michelin steels this weekend, ordered essentials for servicing the engine and now just need a few bits and bobs to get the car ready for the MOT.

Gus 29-08-2011 10:19 PM

I'm away to tackle that same areas this week :s

Cris B 29-08-2011 10:33 PM

It's so time consuming doing it properly! Another two and a half hours spent today working on it. Good luck with it Gus!

dunc 29-08-2011 11:08 PM

Where did you get your swaging tool Cris?

Cris B 30-08-2011 08:36 AM


Cris B 31-08-2011 09:44 PM

Yesterday ground down the repairs on the chassis rail leg and put it into primer (laid down a second coat tonight). Then cracked on with repairing the chassis rail gusset, making up a repair template out of cardboard - the gaffer tape is a structural element ;)


It's a lot easier making corrections in cardboard than steel so this makes sense. Finished fabricating it up tonight and last thing put it into primer. Should get this welded on tomorrow and that's these chassis rail gusset sections are done.


Today I received the first of my recent bargain purchases - I managed to source a full set of steelies with brand new Michelin Pilot tyres for a great price off eBay. Just waiting for the fourth one to arrive... The inserts that convert to flat rather than tapered wheel bolts just tap out. I'll probably get these painted up in white at some point, but no great rush.



Gus 31-08-2011 10:10 PM

Good work, I've just bought replacement gusset sections instead of repairing what I have cut out. I figured it was a slightly better use of my time :o

Cris B 31-08-2011 10:33 PM

Where did you order them up from Gus?

Gus 31-08-2011 10:35 PM

106Parts, although I had to get the drivers side one from the ebay store as it wasn't listed on thier website. 25 a pop if I remember rightly.

Cris B 31-08-2011 10:47 PM

Ah well too late now. I did look on the 106parts site and they only listed one and it wasn't the one I needed!

Cris B 03-09-2011 12:35 AM

Yesterday with the chassis rail and gusset repair section for the near side ready, welded the repair section on and then prepped it for paint. Put two coats of POR15 on tonight.




Also seam sealed the O/S section that had previously been POR'd. Not pretty, but no one is going to see it once it's covered in Gravitex and painted.


Another one of my recent eBay bargains. A full set of hub covers for the steelies for 5 delivered. They were misspelt in the listing as Peugot van parts for a Partner van. They're in amazing condition, so I wonder if they've ever been used. I'm going to paint the emblem and circular logo lip in silver like I did with the last set.


Finally as none of the three parcels of parts that I have been waiting for arrived I decided to tackle a job which was more of a nice to get done rather than essential. The front brakes need new discs and pads and the brakes off the 16v project car are ideal as they had done less than 500 miles since fitting. I've prepped the standard ATE callipers off the 16v ready for enamelling.


I have some Goodridge braided lines to fit which should improve things a little - the brakes were a bit spongey but this may be more to do with the fluid probably needs changing as part of the service (doesn't seem to have been done in any of the history I have for the car.

shenparbitch 03-09-2011 09:52 AM

ahhhh gotta love a crushed chassis gusset!! either tyre fitters or MOT testers need shooting for using this area!!!

your pattern and repair section making skills are coming on well...

Cris B 03-09-2011 06:54 PM


ahhhh gotta love a crushed chassis gusset!! either tyre fitters or MOT testers need shooting for using this area!!!
Yes I would cheerfully chin anyone who did that to my car.


your pattern and repair section making skills are coming on well...
Cheers Stu. Not sure what happened today with time, just seemed to evaporate! Callipers in 1k enamel - second coat goes on tomorrow.


Stripped out the carpet and as suspected found it quite damp underneath. Someone has previously lifted up most of the underlay sound proofing. What is left glued on is sopping wet. I have left it to dry out now the carpet isn't in the way. Next job is the dash coming out and I'll swap the heater matrix from the 16v project car into it.

Sorted out the sloppy gearshift with a Compbrake quick shift - previously had one of these on the 16v and liked it so decided to get another one. I know they don't have a good reputation amongst some for the top mounts, but fair play to them for getting this delivered the day after the order was placed. Once it is all back together you won't see it as it will be hidden under a leather gearstick gaiter.



Cris B 04-09-2011 08:59 PM

Very little done today. Managed to top coat the calipers and seam seal the N/S gusset repair section - tie coat primer goes on both side tomorrow. One of the orders I am waiting for contains the proper plugs for the gussets as I am missing some and don't have enough to put it all back together. Once that arrives, I'll get the gravitex stone chip protection on.

Also headed up to Halfords and picked up some dot5.1 fluid for the brakes and also some coolant for the rad. I am not 100% sure the leak is from the heater matrix - there is no strong smell of antifreeze. It could be the water has come through the bulkhead scuttle where the heater motor is located. Still now have the jubilee clips and gubbins needed to swap the matrix if necessary. was going to buy a head unit but they had sold out of the one I wanted 15 minutes before I arrived :mad:

LOL, nevermind Halfrauds! Just managed to get the same stereo after a bit of shopping for 60 less from a seller on Amazon! Result!

dunc 06-09-2011 06:49 PM

How you getting on?

scottmmw 07-09-2011 07:52 AM


Originally Posted by Gus (Post 774600)
106Parts, although I had to get the drivers side one from the ebay store as it wasn't listed on thier website. 25 a pop if I remember rightly.

sorry to hijack but do you have a link as i cant find them or the correct name and il email 106parts.

Cris B 07-09-2011 10:03 AM


I emailed Mark about the gusset panels today and highlighted that one of them is missing.


Had a very frustrating few days. Finished painting and rebuilt the brakes:


Went to remove the old discs and only one of the torx bits came out. Two sheared at the threads. One sheared at the torx head! Bastard things. I had applied heat to them as well and tried impact driving them. So in the process of drilling them out.

Unbolted the old calipers but then couldn't separate the flexihose from the rigid line. IIRC, the flexihose is pressed into the metal bracket that is bolted to the chassis rail. The flexihose end then doesn't move. So in theory you should just need to undo the 11mm brake union nut to separate the two. Of course it is seized solid and won't come undone.

I am open to any tips as I was scratching my head on this. I may go and try and get a proper brake union spanner to get more grip on the nut.

Chopped the remainder of the drop links off the struts. Top nuts were also stuck on the threads so wouldn't come all the way off. Managed to undo them a bit and then get a slit disc in behind them to chop the thread in half to release them.

The N/S rear arch was sellotaped on - nice bodge :roll eyes: Took it off and spend ages cleaning the residue off the arch and body panels. Refixed the arch properly with rubber washers and stainless washers and screws. It's not going anywhere now.

Removed the heater matrix and heater from the 16v car. Another 4.5kg taken out of that which is good and will definitely be going down the heated windscreen route. Investigated the footwells in the 8v and discovered that the bulkhead sound proofing is only wet in the bottom of the footwells. Therefore I suspect the interior was very water logged at some point and was never allowed to dry out. Some relief on discovering this as changing the matrix with the engine in was a job I was not looking forward to.

Also applied two coats of the tie coat primer yesterday. I will be able to put the gravitex on the gusset repairs tomorrow once the paint has fully cured.

Also changed the air filter and stuck a K&N in. Spent the rest of the time cleaning up the garage a bit as it was a right state!

Remaining jobs are:
  • Fit the brake calipers and discs and bleed the entire system with new fluid.
  • Oil and filter change.
  • Fuel filter change.
  • Sheared rear ARB plate bolt drilled out and replaced.
  • Then MOT

Cris B 07-09-2011 11:04 PM

Bit more progress tonight. Finished drilling out the two of three sheared torx screw bits that hold the discs to the drive flange hubs. One more to do tomorrow, I just ran out of time tonight. Most of the time was spend sorting the sheared rear anti roll bar end plate bolt. Drilled and tapped it but had to faff about taking off the disc protector back plate etc to be able to get the position I needed. Still it's a job off the list :rolleyes:


Cris B 09-09-2011 09:47 PM

Yesterday I managed to make it to the small car parts shop around the corner from home before it closed after work and picked up a brake union spanner. A couple of blasts of heat from the blowtorch and a swift thwack and I managed to get the unions undone. Opened up all the bleed nipples and left the system to drain. Finished the work on the seized torx bolts so with both old brake discs and calipers removed I’m ready to fit the new parts.

The new Sony head unit turned up for the interior. I was quite excited about this getting it plugged in, but perhaps foolishly I had hoped that it would just be plug and play. Not in my case as the cabling has been butchered by a previous owner. I may have to dig through my bag of excess wiring that has come out of the 16v to find the connectors and then it’s a case of getting the soldering iron out to repair the cables.


Finished the brakes off tonight. Used a Gunson easy bleed system to push the fluid through the lines and it worked a treat.


Used Dinitrol cavity wax inside the gusset repair sections, plugged them back up and painted the outsides with Gravitex. Will get some pictures of that posted up – shown here with the POR15 Tie Coat Primer on. Next thing is to top coat in Hammerite white and then put the ARB back on. After that it’s back on wheels.


Talking of which, I finished painting the Michelin steel wheels centre caps during the week.


Tonight I used a crow bar to prise off the inserts that were in two of the wheels to suit the VTR wheel bolts. Rear wheels are now on. Getting there!

Cris B 11-09-2011 10:34 PM

Quite a lot of progress over the weekend. Gusset repairs are all done and top coated. Polybushed the front ARB and refitted the ARB (the bushes came off the 16v standard ARB as they're surplus now as there's a 19mm ARB going on). Fitted the new drop links on both sides.


I had a complete GTI loom as a spare. Dug it out and looked through it to find the connectors for the stereo. Some bugger had already chopped them off :rolleyes: Typical! So then had to go through the bag of bits that had come out of the 16v loom. Found them though and had to make a few repairs where the outer cable had been cut by tap connectors.


Soldered the connectors onto the main loom in the car and fitted the new stereo. It works :D

The interior needed a full clean up before the carpet and seats were refitted. In cleaning up the interior footwells, there was a bit of surface rust and both the rear drain pugs were loose. Cleaned them up, etched primer with Rustoleum and once that was dry, siliconed in the plugs.


Finally put the car down onto wheels and took it outside for a wash. Unfortunately the brakes aren't right... in that there aren't any! I did the whole bleed, let it stand and then repeat again, but clearly there is still more air in the system. So will have to do it again, but will link it into doing the oil and filter change whilst is it up one stands again.


The passenger door was known to be FUBAR'd. Check out those panel gaps:


I think I may have found out the reason that the interior was damp - check out that gap between the door and B pillar! Yes the door is closed. Fortunately I picked up a new door at the weekend, so just need to swap them over.


Unfortunately, maybe I should have collected a pair of doors. This is the drivers side:


Gus 11-09-2011 10:57 PM

Final stages now!

Hoyle 12-09-2011 08:00 AM

Great progress again Cris! You're making me want to go poking for rust on mine again!!


Cris B 12-09-2011 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by Hoyle (Post 775648)
Great progress again Cris! You're making me want to go poking for rust on mine again!!


Don't do it :p

Endless bloody job on these cars once you get started :(

indigorallye 12-09-2011 10:02 AM

Give us a shout if you need a foot on the brakes] for 'conventional' bleeding!

Harv 12-09-2011 10:11 AM

Brilliant work again mate, you've done more to the 8v than I've done to mine in 6 months! :D

Hoyle 12-09-2011 12:26 PM


Originally Posted by Cris B (Post 775653)
Don't do it :p

Endless bloody job on these cars once you get started :(

The gussets have gone similar to yours and the boot seams are splitting more and more. Thought I may aswell get the obvious bits done whilst I'm sorting the cage welding (yup - still!).

I've not done any rust treatment before - so I was going to just go mental with a wire wheel and then get the replacement parts made up for me.

Then just use some sort of anti rust primer and go from there.

I think I should look into this properly!


dunc 12-09-2011 01:17 PM

Its a slippery slope!

Nice progress Cris.

Cris B 12-09-2011 01:44 PM

Thanks for the comments guys. I managed to leg it to Halfords at lunchtime for more brake fluid. Out with the Eezibleed again tonight! Thanks for the offer Mike, hoping that I won't need help on sorting them.

Hoyle 12-09-2011 02:23 PM

Just ensure you have enough pressure on the eezibleed and you'll be fine.


Cris B 12-09-2011 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by Hoyle (Post 775683)
Just ensure you have enough pressure on the eezibleed and you'll be fine.


Yeah that was the theory first time around :p :eek:

Gus 12-09-2011 05:16 PM

Did you put the gravitex on on top of the gusset plugs?

Cris B 12-09-2011 10:18 PM


Originally Posted by Gus (Post 775713)
Did you put the gravitex on on top of the gusset plugs?

Yes Gus, sealed them in. Gravitex is not waterproof so you need to top coat it. Anti-stonechip itself generally doesn't adhere to metal nor provides a decent water seal. It's most effective when applied thickly so I used a brush with a dabbing action rather than a brushing action.

Although I only had an hour tonight, I had the car out of the garage and ran the engine until the fan kicked in then carefully drove it back in. The only brakes the car had were the hand brake LOL. Up on axle stands, wheels off, drained the oil out of the block and left it dripping into the oil tray.

Bled the brakes again with the eezibleed and about 15psi fed off a spare wheel. I started with the O/S rear and an amazing amount of air came out and then progressively less as I worked around N/S rear, O/S front and then N/S front. Finished with a really firm pedal feel. Result!

Checked a few more things ahead of the MOT. Needs two bulbs - one rear indicator and one rear numberplate light. Think the hand brake needs tightening too so will have to take the heat shield off the exhaust tunnel again. I wish I'd thought to check it when I was fitting the quick shift :rolleyes:

Hoyle 13-09-2011 06:19 AM

Cracking progress!

Cris B 13-09-2011 07:50 PM

Oil and filter change: done.
Fuel filter change: done.
Both exhaust tunnel heatshields are off.
Ran out of time tonight.

Handbrake cable needs tightening and a bit of faffing with the quickshift to be done then we're into the home straight.

Cris B 14-09-2011 11:43 PM

Tightened up the handbrake cable so it is now on at the second click. Took the quickshift off. The bearing was really tight so I decided to loosen it up. Soaked it in this:


Then used an appropriate sized socked and an extension bar and worked it in circles for 5 minutes. Applied some heat and repeated a few times and now have an acceptable movement in the bearing. As I am keeping the heatshields on the exhaust tunnel it is a proper mission to change the settings of the quickshift.

Fitted it all back on and made up an adaptor bracket so I can refit the centre console bit.


Then fitted the leather gear stick gaiter onto the surround and ta da, hidden away:


Tonight I still didn't get the quickshift quite right as when I drove the car I couldn't select second gear and then the bloody thing came loose so the gear stick was sliding up and down in the bushings. All four grub screws were tight when I put it back together :mad: I have a plan B!

On going to replace the faulty N/S rear indicator buld I discovered the light cluster was akin to a small fish tank sans le poisson. A good litre of water came out as I took it off and then was still lots more inside. Amazingly the electrics were all still working despite being submerged. The indicator wasn't working as there was no bulb fitted. I drained the light cluster and cleaned it all up and reassembled. It can't have been sitting in water long as there was very little corrosion.

I inherited a rear bumper with car. The one fitted was a bit scuffed up and had a big gouge taken out of it. Fitted that on tonight. The old one was only held on by one bolt :eek: The replacement bumper was in much better condition and had a full compliment of number plate lights working so saved a job.

In doing my final checks in the hope of taking it in for an MOT tomorrow, I found the screen washer jets were not working. The reservoir is full so I can only assume the pump is bolloxed. So was I, so I called it a night.

Gareth Y 15-09-2011 12:25 AM

Well impressed...to be fair all them jobs were on my "to do"list when I had it for 4 months however the closest I came to the car was the occassional wash so the neighbours didn't complain I was bringing the neighbourhood down!!! :p

Cris B 15-09-2011 12:26 PM

Cheers Gareth. Not done the 'boot rust' yet. Welding is still needed on both sides - it's very thin and rotten, but not done it yet as this should not affect the MOT.

I have a growing list of bits I will be looking for to finish the car off, but no great rush. Just want to get it MOT'd and road legal now. The brakes are fricking awesome now. I was locking the car up with ease last night with a good stomp on the anchors. Bit different to when it arrived! The discs were well below the recommended thickness so definitely needed changing on the front.

Plan is to pick up some bits this weekend and get it to the MOT station on Monday.

Cris B 17-09-2011 09:11 AM

Thanks to Mr Pye, I now have a pair of doors, a washer pump (of unknown working property) and some other bits and pieces. Hopefully get a big push on this over the weekend to finish it.

Hoyle 17-09-2011 06:48 PM

:D great stuff! Is the MOT booked?

Cris B 17-09-2011 08:19 PM

Water pump did work and is now fitted. Replaced the interior light fixture and bulb and have that working too. Replaced the passenger door - panel gaps need a bit of fettling but it is a million times better with a door without all the dents and bent bits!

Sadako 18-09-2011 02:29 PM

restoration god like stuff here

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