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View Poll Results: What colour for my compomotives mo's?
White 8 61.54%
Gold 2 15.38%
Black 3 23.08%
Silver 0 0%
Dark silver 0 0%
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Old 20-04-2011, 08:45 AM   #51
mattrallye
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I seem to be having issues with the idleing. When it's warmed up and you slow down for a junction etc the car seems to cut out. I believe it's the idle control valve that's playing up, any ideas?
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Old 20-04-2011, 09:15 AM   #52
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More than likely, the s1's suffer from them commonly. Take it out and give it a good clean out.
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Old 20-04-2011, 09:17 AM   #53
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Cheers Dunc, I'll give it a good clean. I may even pull the whole throttle body off and clean it all.
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Old 21-04-2011, 10:39 AM   #54
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I haven't been able to get the oil temp gauge and oil pressure light working at all on the car. I've fixed any damage to the sensors, replaced the oil pressure switch and still nothing. I've taken the dash clocks out too to check them and still nothing.

Any ideas guys?

Otherwise I'm going to run a seperate Smiths gauge!
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Old 21-04-2011, 11:53 AM   #55
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Have you checked the sensors and dash with a multimeter?

The oil pressure sensor would only show if you have low pressure.

When you turn the ignition one click it should show the oil level. Then when you fire the car up, the needle should drop and when warmed up the oil temp will move up. but it does take a while to move.

If you running a competition car or purely for track use I would be tempted to ignore both read outs and just run an oil pressure guage. SPA design do some lovely ones! Have a look at Gus's blog.
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Old 21-04-2011, 12:30 PM   #56
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Yeah, I know mate, just cant get anything, I've checked the dash like you said. The oil pressure switch doesn't light up the red spot on the dash doesn't come on and the clock doesn't flick up to show the oil level. I think the best bet would be to buy a seperate clock, I'll look into the SPA clocks then, thanks.

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Old 21-04-2011, 08:39 PM   #57
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Pics of the new Costella group N linkages and powerflex bush fitted.



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Old 27-04-2011, 07:26 PM   #58
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nice little project you got on there buddy!

With refence to the engine to head conversion. the 16v head would not fit to the rallye engine for sure as the valves would just hit on the block, not sure on the 1.4 xsi engine though although i remember being told it would not work for the same reason.

Im pretty sure all you need is a 1.1 crank and 1.4 rods but im unsure on the rods. all i know is you need longer rods to bring the pistons back upto the top of the block due to the crank not having as big stroke as the 1.6


hope that helps and keep up the good work
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Old 27-04-2011, 07:53 PM   #59
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Cheers Buddy! I am still interested in building one, although I'm hoping to buy a set of itb's at the moment to suit the 8v, so may build a 1.3 8v screamer, as Garry.M on here seems to have had great success with one!
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:26 PM   #60
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Update.

Tyres cut ready for Mallory Park on the 21st! really looking forward to that now.

Picked up a spare brand new hydraulic handbrake I had at my parents house, so I'm going to try and put it in on the weekend but I've got to get a new bias valve. So I'll be fitting my new braided hoses at the same time.

First problem!

The wipers decided to turn into a scissor the other day! and decided to get totally stuck together. On closer inspection it seems the splines have worn off the wiper arms. Oh I love Peugeots! lol

Second problem!

The idle control valve was playing up, so I gave it a good clean and it seemed to work fine. Then took it for a spin and noticed I could hear the fuel pump constantly making a noise, could have been a coincidence after cleaning the valve as I hadn't heard it doing the noise before, but I'm not sure!? 'Could be the pump on the way out!' So I took the valve out to check it again, gave it another clean and now it's not working at all! So I'm totally pissed off! as I don't want to fork out for a new one as I'm planning on changing to ITB's soon.

If anyone has one and is willing to sell please let me know as I need the car running before the 21st!
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:24 PM   #61
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I had a tinker with mine the other day, make sure its dry before it goes back in and make sure its moving. Took me a few goes but its ok now.
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:44 PM   #62
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I'll probably end up giving it another clean, just if it is Fwked then I need to find an another quick.

I pulled the end off by un-screwing it out, gave it a good clean inside then screwed the end back on. It doesn't go tight when it's screwed back in, not sure if it should or not? Once it was cleaned I still find that it is difficult to push it in or pull it out. How easy should it move?

The fuel pump is now also making what can be described as a straining sound! Where as when you turn the ignition key you hear the pump starting up then the sound goes, the sound now continues but sounds strained, any ideas? Also you can hear the sound coming from the inlet manifold through one of the fuel feed pipes.

It just seems to be too much of a coincidence that this sound happened as soon as I cleaned the valve the first time.

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Old 04-05-2011, 05:09 PM   #63
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Cleaning the ICV, should not really affect the fuel pump/line issue you are describing. As the ICV sits ontop of the inlet and is not directly connected to the pump/lines.

The ICV can also be sourced on other models of the 106, check your local scrap yard. I believe the 1.1's have one which is compatible.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:34 PM   #64
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That's exactly what I thought mate. It just seems like a real coincidence that the sound starting happening after i cleaned the valve! Probably the pump on the way out! what next!

How easy should the idle control valve move in and out?
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Old 05-05-2011, 07:07 AM   #65
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As far as I am aware it should be quite tight. I dont know if you can still get Magneti Marelli parts. Would imagine a cheap one would be around 40 50 quid.
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Old 05-05-2011, 07:47 AM   #66
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OK, does anyone know how far the end needs to be screwed in? as it doesn't go tight!
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:16 PM   #67
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Right after the issues I've been having with the idle control valve I decided to take off the whole throttle body to give it a proper clean. It was pretty dirty and now it's clean it seems to be running pretty well. One little update too, I decided to smarten up the engine by re-painting the rocker cover. So I pulled it off and then cleaned it up. I'd just bought off ebay a tin of wrinkle finish heat resistant paint to spray it with, so I finished the prep work and set out to spray it in what I thought would be black and then realised that I was spraying it in red! Anyway despite my disappointment and surprise I continued and well it looks pretty good, see for yourselves -

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Old 07-05-2011, 08:36 PM   #68
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Looks good!

I will get more details/photos of the tyres/engine tomorrow.

James
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:21 PM   #69
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The idle control valve looks new!!
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:27 PM   #70
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it's surprising what a little elbow grease can do!

I've also made a few changes to the front bumper today. I decided to take off the front numberplate and drill some massive holes instead to get a load more cooling to the rad. I think this should make a hell of a difference to the cooling as I noticed she was getting a little hot round Combe, so hopefully this will sort it. I'm going to relocate a stick on numberplate just below the honeycomb vent. Will get some pics up soon.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:39 PM   #71
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I too did the same on my XSi track toy. But I left the plate in place and plan to remove it once on track.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:40 PM   #72
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That's exactly what I was thinking a minute ago! great minds! lol
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Old 14-05-2011, 10:27 PM   #73
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I bought a digital camera stand for the car the other week, and fitted it to the cage. Works really well, i just know that I'm going to have some great fun with that. Took a photo after we parked up, just kind of reminded me of a holiday we had in italy!



Couple of updates today -

Bumper holes, just waiting on my mesh to come through the post to finish it off. also fitted a pull cable for the battery cut off. Just need to get a new plumbed in extinguisher for the other now.



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Old 14-05-2011, 11:56 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophy380 View Post
Thanks mate, I love the Trophy it's a beautiful car to drive and I'm really getting quite fond of the Rallye now too.

Thanks for the info. I've noticed that it seems to have a separate sender unit, but I didn't realise that the gti's pump and sender we're as one. So thanks for that as I may have bought one of those instead. I've kind of bodged the speedo now with a little bit of tape on the drive, stops it fluctuating so much. Although a long term fix might be a gti set up.

[B]I thought I'd add a few photos of my other Rally car. It's a 1970 Stage Rally specced Mini. It's been an on going project since 2003 and I've literally spent a fortune on it (in excess of 12,000) fitting all the best parts. I hope my partner never sees that!.

Anyway here's a few of pics, more to follow when I find them.

During it's second build:





The all steel engine:



Engine spec:

1275cc A+ MG Metro Block bored & Cross Hatch Honed + 20 Capacity 1293cc
Block and gearbox drilled for 5/16 ARP bolts, 11 Stud Head Fixing
+20 Omega OP120 Forged Race Pistons
MED .T. Crank lightened/balanced/polished/wedged & bladed/ back drilled & cross drilled (standard journals)
Innocenti Cooper S lightened/Balanced/Polished Con-Rods with ARP bolts
New Vandervell VP2 Shell Bearings & Thrust Washers
New Vandervell Cam Bearings
STR 930 full Race billet cam 3000 - 8000
Kent Vernier adjustable duplex timing gears
Isky lightened steel followers with oil drain slot
Polished Pushrods
Steel centre main strap
Turbo Powerflow oil pump
Ported and polished stage 5 head (new oil seals, valves re-lapped, thermostat blanking sleeve, Titanium valve caps, Isky Race 240lbs double valve springs) 0.30 skimmed for higher compression
1.5 ratio roller rockers
Lightened steel flywheel (pre-engaged ring gear)
Steel back plate
AP Competition Clutch
Orange Clutch Diaphragm
Aldon Red distributor
Lightened distributor drive
Sports Coil
Catch Tank breathing system
Mocal 13 row Oil Cooler
Mocal 10 row Water Cooler
Maestro High capacity Alternator
RadTech Alloy Radiator
Lightened Alloy toothed belt pulleys
6 blade steel fan
Alloy rocker cover tapped for breathing
Breathing pipe out of fuel pump blanking plate
ARP Head & Rocker studs
Gates Toothed Belt Pulley System

Gearbox:

Jack Knight SCCR box (works ratio)
Jack Knight SCCR 1.1 ratio drop gears
Central Oil pick up with 2 x Magnetic Oil Traps
3.9 Jack Knight LSD
KAD Internal rose jointed gear linkage

Carburettor:

Split 45 DCOE Weber’s on Longman manifold
the spec of this mini is pretty much bang on what i want! and in Ireland blue too! my 3rd favourite colour on a mini! (i have a few), you MUST post more pictures of this mini! - and the rallye looks cool
edit - do i spy a mk1 or mk2 mini in the garage too?
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Old 15-05-2011, 09:17 AM   #75
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You do mate! There's a 1969 Mk2 Austin Cooper S - 1968 MK2 Morris Mini Cooper (ex-competition car) - 1966 Austin Mini Pick up, and I also have a 1968 Austin Mini Van tucked away else where.

I have around 100 photos of the full build, I'll try and upload a few. The mini's in a car show at the end of the month so I'll get a load of up to date ones then.

I havent gone into the spec of the body as the lists would be endless. It has every item you would need suspension wise, interior wise, etc etc etc. There's a lot of time gone into doing things just right on it too. With a lot of inspiration from both classic and contemporary tuning methods.

It started out with a fast road 998cc set up but just wasn't enough. Then I decided to turn it into a competition car so decided to go big bore. I've tried pretty much every type of 5port fuel delivery on it from SU's, Webers, rare delorto's etc. So what it is today has been a formula of a lot of trial and error.

The engine is epic, I spent around a year sourcing the parts for that alone, from ebay to autojumbles! The engine / gearbox build alone done professionally would cost around 10,000. Doing it yourself would work out a lot cheaper as long as you don't charge your own time! lol ;o)

Driving it is awesome the noise and performance from what's only a 1300 is excellent. It's very rapid indeed, it's not been on the rollers yet but I can estimate that it would be around 140bhp and over 100bhp at the wheels due to the engine being based on a Miglia one.

I know what you're thinking guys 140bhp isn't that much but you have to remember that this engine in standard form is only 70bhp! + the combination of the body weighing very little puts a very big smile on your face.

If you need any advice info on building a mini give me a shout!

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Old 15-05-2011, 09:32 AM   #76
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You do mate! There's a 1969 Mk2 Austin Cooper S - 1968 MK2 Morris Mini Cooper (ex-competition car) - 1966 Austin Mini Pick up, and I also have a 1968 Austin Mini Van tucked away else where.
now that sounds like a car collection.. you have just bumped your self up a few ranks in my Rallye Register hero chart!
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Old 16-05-2011, 08:24 PM   #77
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Little update - added some protective mesh to cover the cutouts



Another little update, well the spending has started... even though I said it wouldn't! lol. Bought a new catcam 645 yesterday just waiting for it to come through in the next few days. Then engine out for a once over, check all the internals, new seals, LSD in the box and final drive - going for a 4.3 now. Then ported polished head, itb's and DTA. Should be a good healthy little motor then!

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Old 16-05-2011, 09:42 PM   #78
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Slippery slope dude!

Mesh needs to be black and then it's acceptable.
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Old 16-05-2011, 09:50 PM   #79
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Lol! Well the plan is...

Get the car set up just right, suspension / brake wise, engine running as I want it etc etc and make all the necessary changes to the body. Then strip down and give it a full bare shell re-spray and then re-assemble. So I'm sure the mesh will be black at some point mate! It's hidden behind the number plate on the road and then remove the plate on track days. I will be getting a stick on plate made up at some point though.
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Old 17-05-2011, 07:50 AM   #80
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Dunno about the car, but your wife is looking tidaaay!
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Old 17-05-2011, 08:54 AM   #81
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Cheers buddy! I can't complain! ;o)
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Old 17-05-2011, 05:09 PM   #82
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Then strip down and give it a full bare shell re-spray
-don't bother with the full re-spray ,,its will only slow you down !!!! - you'll be to scared that you scratch it going through the bale chicanes !
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Old 21-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #83
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You should see it now Garry! it needs more than paint! lol
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Old 22-05-2011, 11:32 AM   #84
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Hope you get it sorted soon dude! Just have to remember it could have been much worse!
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Old 22-05-2011, 02:09 PM   #85
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Cheers Mate! I've assessed the situation today and it wont take too much to put back + little bonus is that my neighbour has just told me that he'll bond a screen in for me for nothing so even better! I'll sort the roof damage out first then, new screen in + bonnet.

As you said could have been a lot worse! thank god it happened on the straight and not on a bend!

Did you get the pulley sorted?
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Old 22-05-2011, 02:15 PM   #86
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Heated screen could be an idea whilst you're there?

I did indeed, Rob rescued me with minutes to spare. Got out for K & L and the N & O back to back. Really impressed with the car, just wish my camera hadn't run out of battery earlier.
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Old 22-05-2011, 02:23 PM   #87
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yeah heated screen could be an option, could rip the heater out then!

Trouble is my list could be getting out of hand! I've already enquired about a carbon fibre bonnet and roof!

Good to hear you got back out on track mate, I heard it was running really well with you.
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Old 22-05-2011, 03:03 PM   #88
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You need to accept that the list will be always be out of hand.

Good excuse to get some carbon on there, will save a hefty amount of weight from important places too.
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Old 22-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #89
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Did you mention a c/f roof? If you plan to rally the car your not allowed one.
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Old 22-05-2011, 05:24 PM   #90
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I enquired about one, then like you said checked the little book and it seems I cant! Just as well theres no way I'd pay for one!

I've got a few mates that are awesome at panel beating and will do it cheap! The roof isn't too bad anyway.

I am going to fit a GRP or C/F bonnet though!
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Old 22-05-2011, 05:31 PM   #91
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new roof skin is only 100 quid.
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Old 22-05-2011, 05:33 PM   #92
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Is that from Peugeot Cyb3r? That's pretty cheap! is it a big job?
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Old 25-05-2011, 07:42 PM   #93
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Put a newer dash in the car today and finally got the fuel gauge working right! Problem now though is the fact that due to the dash being from a newer car it's a electronic speedo so that's not working, although I'm not too bothered about having a speedo working.

Someone said that I can get a sensor from the gearbox that would control the speedo, is this possible?

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Old 25-05-2011, 09:15 PM   #94
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Is that from Peugeot Cyb3r? That's pretty cheap! is it a big job?
Yea and No its pretty simple tbh, look in my rolland garros blog. I have pictures on there

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Put a newer dash in the car today and finally got the fuel gauge working right! Problem now though is the fact that due to the dash being from a newer car it's a electronic speedo so that's not working, although I'm not too bothered about having a speedo working.

Someone said that I can get a sensor from the gearbox that would control the speedo, is this possible?

No as the wiring wont be there.
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The Car In Front's A 16v.

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Old 26-05-2011, 09:29 PM   #95
mattrallye
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No as the wiring wont be there.
Fair point!

Couple more buys recently:

PTS Tarmac inserts ready for my coilover converted struts along with 300lb springs.



Purchased this the other week off Garry M for the new engine build! cant wait!




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Old 26-05-2011, 09:30 PM   #96
Cyb3r
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Only 1 cam?
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Old 26-05-2011, 09:33 PM   #97
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I know what you're thinking Cyb3r and No I'm not letting you 16v it! lol If I bolted another cam on top of the rocker box would that be OK!? ;o) lol
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Old 26-05-2011, 09:54 PM   #98
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Have a look at my blog before you fit those inserts. I had the dampers machined down a bit to stop them bottoming out. dude
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Old 26-05-2011, 10:22 PM   #99
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How come mate? what springs were you running with them?
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Old 27-05-2011, 06:40 AM   #100
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Sorry to hear about your mishap at mallory As for the newer dash, the clocks from an s2 look identical to s1's. I have gti clocks with a gti speed sensor in mine. Pm Benji if your stuck on the wiring, he sorted the wiring on mine in about half an hour
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