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#951 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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I made a jig from my old struts & uprights to position the steering arm.
![]() ![]() And started to fab the new setup. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Struts built up with all the new parts including custom 12" springs from Faulkner ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Spring caps were 1 part that was NLA so I had these spun up ![]() ![]() I had these top spacers machined too. (spring cap here was home made to keep things moving) ![]() Last edited by Dieseldave; 03-01-2018 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#952 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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nice work Dave! I see there's a thrust bearing under the top cap too, is that to take some of the load away from the Spherical bearing in the top mounting?
What kind of steel do you use for the sheet? |
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#953 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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That's how the bearings are done on the C2 and they have a spherical top mount so I decided to use them also.
Steel for the steering arm? Just standard 2mm Mild steel, plenty strong enough when boxed in. Another thing that was always in the back of my mind during events was the shafts/CV joints. If was common in the early days of the C2 R2 that they would brake the outer joint where it tapers down and Citroen upgraded these on the R2 Max and offered it as an upgrade for the R2. I sourced some Max shafts and below you can see the difference. Max on the left ![]() Max on Bottom ![]() ![]() And to make it work, new C2 R2 Max uprights, flanges and bearings from Cit Sport ![]() ![]() ![]() Note the hub center has a bigger flange on it to allow spacers to be run. ![]() Last edited by Dieseldave; 03-01-2018 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#954 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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ahh that explains why it isn't a standard peugeot/citroen part when the bearing and the carrier is.
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#955 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Correct, plus any of the large cars or commercials with the bigger spline are 5 stud.
Studs etc changed over from my old uprights ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by Dieseldave; 03-01-2018 at 07:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#956 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Looks very trick, nice work Dave
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#957 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Of course the 'box had to be converted to hydraulic clutch and the easiest option was to go
with this Wilwood pull type to replace the cable. I didnt want to get into modifying the 'box or cutting up the clutch fork and the Wilwood cylinder works well in my MK1 Golf. ![]() I welded a off stand onto the gearbox mount to carry the end of the cylinder. I also fitted a dry break connector into the braided line. ![]() ![]() |
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#958 |
EXPIRED MEMBER :(
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it's good to see more progress dave, i love how original you kept the saxo but i also love how you are doing some out of the box thinking on how to do stuff. i'm in the middle of trial fitting the engine again now i've moved the mounts and i'm looking into the clutch now.
i already made a bracket to mount a willwood cylinder but i'm having trouble with my release bearing. something just doesnt look right on it so i am tempted to run a GRT hydraulic bearing but its not a cheap option.
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[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Magenta"]i've been beano'd!!!!11111111eleventy[/COLOR][/SIZE] |
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#959 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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still using a BE box Aidy?
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#960 |
EXPIRED MEMBER :(
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Yes mate. I think you commented on my Facebook post on the 306 group about the bearing and how it should fit. there is what feels like a lot of slack and i wasn't convinced by it. unfortunately GRT aren't currently replying to my messages.
Also my release bearing is missing one of the tiny little ears that help it pull back from the clutch
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[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Magenta"]i've been beano'd!!!!11111111eleventy[/COLOR][/SIZE] |
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#961 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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ahh yes, I'm just fitting the BE4 box this evening with a new bearing so I can take a picture for you then.
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#962 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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From looking at the boxes together I think there is no more slack on the clutch bearing between the be3 box and be4 box, rather the clutch fork on the be4 box with a ball joint pivot allows the bearing to move around more. The be3 arrangement is a lot better.... that said when installed the clutch works fine
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#963 | |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Quote:
to go original than buy and fit available parts. I did look at hydraulic release bearings too but they were silly money. The budget Hispec 6 pot calipers finally made way for these Alcon 4 pots. They are the modern day equivalent and have the same piston sizes etc as the S1600 Saxo so I expect them to perform as well. You may also notice I got a new camera lense & I'm trying my hand at arty stuff ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The next hurdle was to have brackets made to mount the callipers. I spoke to my machine shop about what was required but not been a car guy he couldn't get his head around what I was at so I made a mock up for him. ![]() ![]() ![]() And 2 weeks later he handed me a pair of sexy Aluminium brackets ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by Dieseldave; 05-01-2018 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#964 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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#965 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Front corner built up
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#966 |
EXPIRED MEMBER :(
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That's a very clever bit of brake pipe routing dave. ii may have to steal that idea too!
just to save me going back through everything, what bar did you use for the front ARB?
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[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Magenta"]i've been beano'd!!!!11111111eleventy[/COLOR][/SIZE] |
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#967 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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That idea is copyright.
25mm CDS tubing with solid bar hammered up the ends (100mm odd) |
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#968 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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These cams fitted to the top bolt of the struts/pivot allow for quick camber adjustment.
the three 8mm holes are are different distances from the 12mm hole so you set the desired camber at the middle hole and then + or - 20' in each direction. ![]() These sleeves were not in my head and I didn't know they were missing until I built the Saxo so I pulled them out of an old head and fitted them. ![]() New custom plug leads that actually fit the head correctly ![]() Coil pack remounted as it was fitted to the old brake linkage ![]() I also fitted clasps to the airbox to allow fast removal for access to the steering arms, injectors, fuel lines etc without having to remove the 8 trumpet bolts. ![]() ![]() |
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#969 |
EXPIRED MEMBER :(
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if i can't make the the derv roll bar fit i'll be looking into that then.
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[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Magenta"]i've been beano'd!!!!11111111eleventy[/COLOR][/SIZE] |
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#970 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Back down on all four's again, brakes bled & alignment done ready for a shakedown.
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#971 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Nice photos
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#972 |
Mod & Rallye Racer
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OMG.
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Mike www.106maxi.co.uk - North West Sports & Saloons Class F 2014 Champion - Winner of Dave Simpson Memorial Trophy - Britcar 24hour 2015, 2nd in class, 14th O/A - Seat Supercopa |
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#973 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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#974 | |
Mod & Rallye Racer
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Quote:
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Mike www.106maxi.co.uk - North West Sports & Saloons Class F 2014 Champion - Winner of Dave Simpson Memorial Trophy - Britcar 24hour 2015, 2nd in class, 14th O/A - Seat Supercopa |
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#975 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Yeah... I knew I did nothing wrong
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#976 |
REGISTERED FORUM USER - NON MEMBER
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The only thing you've done wrong is you've made me really want to get mine built so I can go drive it in Anger
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#977 |
REGISTERED FORUM USER - NON MEMBER
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I like the camber adjusters Dave. Do they rotate the bolt which has a lobe on it to adjust the camber or move the bolt in and out to adjust? (Does that make any sense?)
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#978 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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no, they just push the bolt in/out in the slot on the strut, its a straight M12 bolt, a nice positive location having the 8mm bolt stopping it sliding.
similar to the arrangement shown here on the satchell setup which uses the same hub carrier, but this one relies on the clamping force of the bolt to stop the cam from turning, which to be fair so far it does just fine, Dave at satchell did say you could use a square washer with pre-set holes if you know what camber settings you wanted but so far we hadn't found that they ever moved. ![]() |
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#979 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Thats OCD porn right there.
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#980 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Stuart's handiwork is quite something isnt it.
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#981 |
REGISTERED FORUM USER - NON MEMBER
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I see. It does look like a really solid way to do it and I guess it stops the bolt from turning and throwing the camber setting out.
Stuarts work is pretty spectacular as well!! ![]() ![]() |
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#982 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER & ThunderCnut
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Wishbone/compression strut bolt should be the other way up .... ����
Thank you btw.... Last edited by shenparbitch; 20-01-2018 at 11:06 AM. |
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#983 | |
Mod & Rallye Racer
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Quote:
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Mike www.106maxi.co.uk - North West Sports & Saloons Class F 2014 Champion - Winner of Dave Simpson Memorial Trophy - Britcar 24hour 2015, 2nd in class, 14th O/A - Seat Supercopa |
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#984 |
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
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Some more upgrades after the standard plastic fuel rail let me down.
I was never a fan of the original push on fuel fittings anyway. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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