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Old 22-05-2012, 01:20 PM   #151
mattrallye
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Agreed Rainsports for road or a bit of track or Yoko 21's are great in the wet and good as an all rounder.
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Old 22-05-2012, 02:01 PM   #152
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will have to consider the rainsports, they look well priced too.
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Old 22-05-2012, 02:09 PM   #153
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crikey, didnt realise rainsports in 195 50 were so cheap! http://camskill.co.uk/m53b0s99p60615..._50R15_82V_TL_

still reasonable in a 45

http://camskill.co.uk/m53b0s92p60612...R15_78V_FR_TL_
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Old 22-05-2012, 08:17 PM   #154
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Really? I dont rate the rainsports on my daily at all.
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Old 22-05-2012, 09:38 PM   #155
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They're excellent on the clio, but I can't comment on 106, although they seem to have pretty good reviews with most. I'd probably go for Yoko 21's as a wet tyre as they're very good.
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Old 25-05-2012, 09:55 PM   #156
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Tyres were kindly picked up by my mother in law today, just need to wait until she comes down to see us in a couple of weeks, then fit them to a spare set of 205 speedlines.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:46 PM   #157
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what thermostat housing you running?
looks odd?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:26 AM   #158
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Standard housing from what I remember, does have a different water temp sensor for the Spa gauge
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Old 14-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #159
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ah rightt i see. i always did wonder what that random bolt/threaded hole is ontop of the thermo housing. as its unused as standard
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Old 20-09-2012, 07:49 PM   #160
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Almost no progress on the car since putting it back together, but I have 10 more days of car enjoyment before it goes back into the garage for the winter for a few planned jobs -

I did take the car to a local weigh bridge – 840 kg’s, ¼ tank fuel – about 5kg’s of crap (tools, work bag and a big box of screws!) so about 835 kg’s; to be honest I was hoping for a little less. I reckon sub 800kg’s could be possible if I was prepared to ditch some of the carbon, passenger seat etc, but as I am not I will have to be happy there. With a power of 170 bhp (well 169.9) it makes it just tip into the 203bhp/tonne club!

The next things to go on this winter will be:
1. Fit the BE gearbox conversion
2. Fit sump guard
3. New lower strut brace
4. Weld reinforcement to the front and rear wishbone mounting points
5. Sort out a few niggles in the engine bay
6. Fit an AP rear bias valve - and get a decent handbrake cylinder (Wilwood ones are crap!)
7. Sell motordrive seats and luke Harnesses!
8. Buy new motordrive seats and harnesses
9. Paint the blue speedlines black and fit 888's
10. Race!

Have a feeling it won't be that simple, but worth a try

Last edited by jools; 20-09-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 20-09-2012, 08:47 PM   #161
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BE box will bump that weight up!
169.5 at the fly? What's the wheel figure?
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Old 20-09-2012, 08:49 PM   #162
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Very impressive mate keep up the good work.
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Old 20-09-2012, 09:33 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sje00 View Post
BE box will bump that weight up!
169.5 at the fly? What's the wheel figure?
Aye, think that fact is well established,

The power graphs is on page 1, not sure of the wheel figure as Powerstation has large transmission losses and they worked it out at 119.3 ATW - to be honest it makes what it makes which I am happy with,especially as it is very drivable with smooth power delivery.
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Old 21-09-2012, 07:36 AM   #164
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You can't relate MAHA LPS3000 wheels figures to other systems, they calculate in a different way to other rollers, low wheels, high TX loss. Only the fly figure is comparable. We going to drift into the usual rolling road vagueness here, because wheels figures are not literal as people often think, they are calculated and can't be taken too literally; it was showing high 150s ATW in Alvin Powell's uncalibrated Sun RAM XII rollers when I mapped it.
Rest assured, it's a ****ing strong 8v, the best TU 8v I've seen so far.
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Old 21-09-2012, 07:47 AM   #165
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That's a massive transmission loss. My 8v made 130 at the wheels, roughly 155 at the fly. That's 20% loss, which is probs still a little high.

I couldn't believe the difference in weight between my MA and BE box. Damn thing almost broke my back lol

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You can't relate MAHA LPS3000 wheels figures to other systems, they calculate in a different way to other rollers, low wheels, high TX loss. Only the fly figure is comparable. We going to drift into the usual rolling road vagueness here, because wheels figures are not literal as people often think, they are calculated and can't be taken too literally; it was showing high 150s ATW in Alvin Powell's uncalibrated Sun RAM XII rollers when I mapped it.
Rest assured, it's a ****ing strong 8v, the best TU 8v I've seen so far.
Explains it. :-)
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Old 21-09-2012, 09:06 AM   #166
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Its only 5kg in it from memory, a few more on the shafts, but what price do you put on something reliable?
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Old 21-09-2012, 09:48 AM   #167
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Jools, we managed to get mine down to 753kg (MSA approved weigh bridge) with 1/4 tank of fuel.
There are lots of areas where weight can be lost if you want to find them.
Look after the grams and the kilos will look after themselves.

What sort of additional weight is there in your fuel set-up? Just out of interest!
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Old 21-09-2012, 05:12 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indigorallye View Post
Jools, we managed to get mine down to 753kg (MSA approved weigh bridge) with 1/4 tank of fuel.
There are lots of areas where weight can be lost if you want to find them.
Look after the grams and the kilos will look after themselves.

What sort of additional weight is there in your fuel set-up? Just out of interest!
No idea what the fuel system weighs, maybe an extra 1-2kg's. I should find a local MSA approved weighbridge as I just used the local aggregate yard one so there is a high chance it is out (doubt it would read low!), Just surprised me a little as I have stripped a lot out of the car and there seem to be a few sub 800kg cars out there that look like they have been on a similar weight loss program.
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Old 13-11-2012, 09:51 PM   #169
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The usual winter strip down begins with the car back on axel stands this time to fit the BE gearbox. I have so far removed the suspension, driveshafts and gearbox and looking at a couple of areas I will add a little reinforcement if I can work around the engine, mainly around the lower engine mount, and front wishbone mounting points.

Also took a spare pair of struts over to a local garage to get new bearings and the BE hubs pressed in, a 50t press made light work of this.
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Old 13-11-2012, 10:00 PM   #170
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Plans sound good Jools. I'll have to come down and see it again when you've got the box in.
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Old 13-11-2012, 10:15 PM   #171
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Aye, hoping to drop the box in before the end of the year, just managed to push on a bit today as I had a whole day to myself - a rare event at the moment.
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Old 23-11-2012, 09:18 PM   #172
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Jools, first time have read the build - I want your car!

Out of interest, what cam does it run and did it need any machining of pistons / skimming of head / decking of block.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 23-11-2012, 09:42 PM   #173
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This is going to sound like a poor answer, but the engine was built by Sandy, I supplied the parts listed in the spec, but specific engine details such as cams are specific to Sandy's builds.
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Old 23-11-2012, 09:43 PM   #174
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Gotcha, understand completely.
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Old 29-11-2012, 10:12 PM   #175
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Struts now painted with POR 15 paint - a guy at work put me on to this paint, he restores Triumph's for a past time and only uses high quality products, good enough for him then good enough for some rough french tin!. Certainly impressed with this paint, seemed to go on easily,despite a bit time consuming with degreasing, washing, rust treatment, further washing then painting with two coats, but by the next morning had set rock hard and survived inspection from a toddler and hammer (real not plastic, the hammer that is)











The springs may need replacing as they are 7.5", and end up being a little too high when used with the helpers, see that a lot of people use 6" mains and 4" helpers so may go for 6", and up the rate from 250lb to 275lb or 300lb

Also restored a set of track rods to suit the quaife quick rack, these came from my old XSi, and rather than buy new everything salvaged the inner ends and rods and spruced them up with POR 15 at the same time as the struts (sorry no photos as they are not stored in the loft now).

Bought some 42mm dia steel tube to use for a sump guard front mounting bar, may use the spare to add a couple of braces linking the upper and lower front suspension points (a' la satchell), now have everything needed to fit the sump guard, need to think about how to re-mount the rad and oil cooler as the current bar will be removed, may make something out of alloy angle to sit above the sump guard tube.

Last edited by jools; 29-11-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 14-12-2012, 09:36 PM   #176
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At last got back in the garage with a day off work. Stripped the rad and removable bottom bar I made up a few years ago. I prepped to fit the the sump guard brackets which took some faff to get stright and tacked into place before fully welding. Made the front bar from some 42mm steel, capping the ends with round plate with captive nuts inside.







Next need to find the centre of this bar to allow the correct positioning of the sump guard. As this bar will brace the front I am going to save weight by using some alloy angle to mount the rad and oil cooler which will sit over this bar.

Last edited by jools; 14-12-2012 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 14-12-2012, 10:55 PM   #177
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Nice work Jools. Where did you buy the kit from in the end?
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Old 15-12-2012, 07:33 AM   #178
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I got the lower chassis leg extentions from Rally weld. Had to cut the holes for the coolant hose, but that provided some thick washers to cap off the cross bar.
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Old 15-12-2012, 10:28 PM   #179
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lol, now that's initiative!
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Old 20-01-2013, 10:08 AM   #180
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After much swearing the BE Gearbox is now on! Only problem is the clutch cable I bought a couple of years back was supposedly made up for this conversion is way too long. I have a second one that is shorter but does not have the same amount of adjustment. Steering rack off again I guess, and try cable number two, if this does not work I will be getting a purpose made one! Photos to follow
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Old 22-01-2013, 09:55 PM   #181
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The clutch cable hopefully sorted, managed to loose the spare 8" of cable with a bit of re-routing. Not ideal but at least the clutch pedal is attached to the box and it works!



I know the revised crank sensor window is a little large, a lesson in never attempt something when being summened back indoors!

The size of this box is something to be believed, never really appriciated how much bigger; from the front looks only slightly larger, but from the top you can see the additional volume at the rear, but it fits







I have started to dummy build the suspension, brakes and driveshafts to check things are fitting ok. The discs, callipers and pads fitted back ok, could have made the hub spacer 1mm less as the disk offset has changed about 1mm (despite copying the offset from the ma hub). Hopefully it will be ok, will be interesting come new pad time.

I also noticed the passengers driveshaft pushed back in when mounted in the strut more than on the jig (both driveshafts has equal levels of movement), unfortunatly the drivers side pushed in a lot less. I managed to move the engine and box 5mm towards the passenger side by undoing all the various engine mounts bolts and giving it a good shove. Got a bit more movement on the drivers side, taking back some of movement from the passenger side, also means there is at least 10mm additional movement when in either frull compression or droop

The major snag to overcome is the exhaust. To allow the driveshafts to clear the chassis legs the whole lot needed to be tilted forward about 15mm, this has the affect of pulling the whole exhaust to a point there is contact with the transmission tunnel near the rear. The exhaust intermediate pipe will need to be extended by at least 15mm, maybe a little more.

The dissapointing thing is nither my OMP lower strut brace nor the satchbrace fits as tilting the engine also causes the exhaust to drop and now fowl. I am still working out this problem.
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Old 22-01-2013, 10:13 PM   #182
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Nice work Jools, it's all finally come together. Will your satchshift still work now you're running a BE? As I bought the MA one was different.

Will you also need to run larger offset discs with the thicker hubs?
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Last edited by mattrallye; 22-01-2013 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 22-01-2013, 10:22 PM   #183
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I bought a BE upgrade for the satchshift (two revised length linkages and a new arm for the gearbox), so it works ok.

The hub face is in the same position (well almost it would appear) as the MA hub all the additional meat is on the back, although of you look at the MA hub they are thicked around the stud/bolt holes - they may even be thicker overall than the BE ones.

Just remembered that I painted the brake calliper mounting face on the strut with three coats of Por 15 paint and was going to scrape it off, maybe the reason for the minor difference found.

Last edited by jools; 22-01-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 23-01-2013, 12:10 AM   #184
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Nice.
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Old 23-01-2013, 08:48 AM   #185
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Jools, whose BE mounting kit are you using?
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Old 23-01-2013, 09:10 AM   #186
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I got the upper and lower gearbox mounts from Titch308, I was going to make my own but these were offered at a good price so when with them. Had to add the rose jointed link.
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Old 23-01-2013, 12:25 PM   #187
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Cris - It's worth reading about how Jools has kept the conversion costs down.
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Old 23-01-2013, 01:05 PM   #188
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http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2...ad.php?t=77527, specific thread about it here - needs updating a little
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:49 PM   #189
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Exhaust extended using a double ended sleeve joint just need to see if it last - only intending it to be a temp fix.

Fitted my 20mm arb which came from my 1994 xsi which I broke 10 years ago, and has been stored until such a time I needed it. Being from an earlier car it 10mm holes for the drop links, these will be enlarged to 12mm to take the later drop links. Picked up some new drop links as well, one had buggered gaiters so the local motor factors did a resonable deal on a pair.

I hope to drop the oil in the engine and fit the smaller oil filter this weekend.
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Old 23-02-2013, 10:34 PM   #190
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rad and oil cooler re-fitted, mounted on an alloy cross brace, as the main brace has been replaced by one that the sump guard can be fitted too should I choose to use it. I pushed the rad forward a bit as well to help with the fitting of the gearbox, which ment the hole for the bottom rad house no longer lined up with the hole, the answer was to route the hose inside the chassis leg.





Still trying to work out what to do with the strut brace, looks like three opions. 1, tweek the exhaust (good for better ground clearence), 2, tweek the brace to clear the exhaust, 3, move the engine upwards 15+mm.



Not sure how best to resolve this, but I do not think I am going to do anything at the moment, I would rather get some miles on the gearbox without further tweeks and delays.

Last edited by jools; 24-02-2013 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 24-02-2013, 10:03 AM   #191
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Move the exhaust! It's the only sensible option that doesn't affect centre of gravity or weaken the brace. Get it chopped and angle so it clears the brace then wleded up again.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:45 PM   #192
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Having failed to get most of the winter jobs completed (well most not even started) I am trying to get the car back together to test the gearbox. All the front suspension is back together and torqued up, with all new nuts and bolts to be sure. The engine oil and coolent is in, and the box is now topped up with 1 ltr of oil - the second ltr will be added tomorrow when I can be sure the box is oil tight.

Still have a list of things to do, but these will be undertaken either later in the year when the insurance runs out the end of Julyand the car will sadly be taken off the road for the foreseeable future; not the best but the reality of having a young family.
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Old 21-05-2013, 01:39 PM   #193
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Despite the last post, some unexpected birthday money will be allowing me to take part on a track day at Combe in June. This will be the first full days track day for 2 1/2 years, how time flys! Two years of winter mods, complete rear overhall, tweaked front end, and new box so will be interesting. The format for the day will be groups of 6 cars for 5 laps. Hopefully will be able to hitch a ride in a friends MG A sprint car - sadly not a twink but LHD, which scares the bejesus out of me as I there should be a wheel and pedels that side!

Few snags let to go before the day, AP bias valve, re-routing the front brake lines and trying to alter the OMP lower strut brace to fit (cutting sleeving and welding to fit) - oh and the old girl passed the MOT last week!
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Old 21-05-2013, 03:11 PM   #194
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Combe should be fun, cant wait till i get my 205 ready. Next summer should be good.
How long you thinking of putting the car away for? Just till next year or more long term?
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Old 21-05-2013, 03:17 PM   #195
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What's this 205 Leo?
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Old 21-05-2013, 03:28 PM   #196
vossy
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Sandy's old rallye
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Old 21-05-2013, 03:55 PM   #197
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Old 21-05-2013, 04:24 PM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vossy View Post
Combe should be fun, cant wait till i get my 205 ready. Next summer should be good.
How long you thinking of putting the car away for? Just till next year or more long term?
Will try 12 mts at first as I could do with topping up the fun and frivolity fund; although if the money tops up quicker than expected I will really try and get some sprints in next year, certainly a track day or two. Really need to get and compete in the thing! Maybe in my 10th full year of ownership!
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Old 24-05-2013, 09:12 AM   #199
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Got the tracking done yesterday thanks to the lads at Chris Mullins. http://www.chrismullins.co.uk/. Top notch service.

Have to say the box is savage, very close ratio, like nothing else I am used to, and with the tyres I have on it currently it braked traction all too easily especially on damp twisty bits. The steering is extremely twitchy with the quaife rack, and with the revisions to the back end lift off overseer is on tap aplenty, and much less wheel spin on un-loaded tyres. Because it is so close ratio it gets to 50 mph odd in second, so 60 is only possible in 3rd, oh then there is the noise of the TB's, popping and back firing on gear change - no wonder the neighbours tutted as I drove out of our road. What oh what have I built!

The only problem is I broke it on the way home. Had a problem with reverse which felt like it was not engaging properly when trying the last time lost it completly. Drove home and when changing up lost drive, thought it was a drive shaft at first but when I coasted to a halt the thing was stuck in gear. When parked up changing through the gears resulted in the box seizing

Got home via the nice man from the AA and pushed it into the garage shut the doors thinking it would be the end of play for a while, Put the boy to bed, he knows how to kick his dad when he is down reputedly saying 'daddy race car broken' over and over again.

Thought bugger it, try got to try and fix it. Entered the garage at 8.00, had the box off by 10.00. Partially stripped by 10.30 then went to bed. back in the garage at about 5:15 am. to fully stripped in under an hour.

The prognosis is this: First gear has fused to the pinion shaft, that is why it stopped, as when tried to engage another gear it wouldn’t, when it finally did the box would have locked as two gears were engaged at the same time (you use this method to open the box up to remove both the 5th gears. The 1st/2nd syncro hub has also seen some major heat with carbonised material found between the edge of this and 1st gear

Next question is why did this happen? I will be looking into this in due course, it could be either mechanical failure or just amateur human error. I suspect the latter but will mean I have to search for a replacement final drive. Lucky I have a spare 1st and 2nd gear

In the meantime I am going to refit the old ma box and ma struts back onto the box and try and get the car back together for a track day next weekend.

So the Saga continues!
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Old 24-05-2013, 09:18 AM   #200
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Shit luck Jools. There's always something!

The ratios seem very short, possibly too short. What FD are you running?
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Last edited by mattrallye; 24-05-2013 at 09:27 AM.
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