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Problems, Servicing & Repairs Information and topics about technical problems, servicing and repairs to the Rallye

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Old 18-09-2009, 10:36 AM   #51
quin
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gahaaay ah well at least its answered, and you know the cables you can use to join to an obd connector and get it read
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Old 25-11-2009, 06:01 PM   #52
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Right. My S1 Rallye misfires when it's warm (it's fine when cold). Prior to seeing this thread, I bought, for about 12 or some fairly trivial amount, a Draper fault reader from ebay. Trouble is I can't get it to work.

When I plug it in and switch on the ignition, with the reader in the off position, the LED on the reader is on. Then I switch it on for 5 seconds and the LED goes out. Then when I switch it off again the LED is on, and nothing at all happens.

The fact that the LED was on made me wonder if it was wired up the wrong way round for some reason, so I've tried switching it from off to on and back with exactly the same result- nothing. So having seen this thread, I thought I'd try sitting in the driver's seat to see if the engine management light on the dash did anything. As far as I can see, it doesn't work at all. Is it supposed to come on when the ignition is switched on but the car isn't started? I get three red lights in that state, battery, handbrake, and oil pressure IIRC.

Do I need to replace the engine management light to get it to work? If so what bulb do I need, and is it an easy job? I have some torx bits I think (albeit that I broke one trying to remove the coil pack ).
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:23 PM   #53
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how do you clear the fault codes using this system?
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Old 25-11-2009, 10:03 PM   #54
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once you have viewed all the fault codes, turn the switch on (or hold the wires together) for more than 10 secs IIRC.
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Old 20-02-2010, 01:37 PM   #55
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this also work on single point injection models on 106 and 205. been using this using a test light screw driver earthing to the upper torx bolt on the check strap assembly on the dirvers door and the other end of the wire and crocadile clamp on to a terminal toom pushes in t the two pin plug(white white)
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Old 25-02-2010, 07:55 PM   #56
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I have done a rallye head conversion with rallye inlet/ecu/loom onto my s2 1.4 8v, just wondering because i have a rallye loom spliced onto the original loom, will i be able to use this guide to get fault codes?

cheers,
Josh
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Old 25-02-2010, 08:45 PM   #57
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should be able to if the ecu light on the dash has been wired in right.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:55 PM   #58
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Just for the benefit of anyone thinking of hooking something up to try this, I've literally just done it.

It is the WHITE lead to the plug which you need to connect, via your switch, to earth.

Given my propensity to muck things up, I went out and bought a flasher switch (push-to-make, sprung off). You need three bits of wire to make it removable.

The first one need only be about 3-4 inches long, if that. Use a scotch lock to clip one end to the white wire near the plug (you may need to cut away a little of the sheathing) and put a suitable shielded connector on the other (I used a female spade connector with a cover). This wire can remain in the engine bay until next time you want to check the ECU.

The next wire you put a spade on the end of, and run it to the switch. It needs to run to the driver's seat.

The final wire runs from the switch to the battery negative. I bought a suitable crocodile clip from Halfords and attached it to the end so it can clip onto the battery.

To run it, connect the two wires up, one to the ECU plug trailing lead and the other onto the battery (I suspect any earth would do?) and sit in the driver's seat to do the test.

I am wondering whether it might be useful to actually wire this circuit in permanently, to a little push button hidden under the dash somewhere...
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Old 27-08-2010, 11:48 AM   #59
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jusy done the test on the rallye an got 34, 27, 44.. cfsv, what is that? 27, heard of it but still dont know whay it is? and knock sensor, iv got a spare one somewhere. so where could i get a vss and cfsv from and what exactly are they?
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Old 27-08-2010, 01:34 PM   #60
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27 - vss - vehicle speed sensor - located at the back of the gearbox

34 - cfsv - i think this is the fuel evap valve but not sure ??? - if it is its in the left of the engine bay, the plug for it comes out of the loom the same place as the injectors so you should find it easy

44 knock sensor - bolted to the block on the rear of the engine, below inlet manifold
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:00 PM   #61
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fault codes

hi guys

i realise this is an old thread, but ive just done it straight away and fault code 52 "lambda control

anyone know if this means my lambda sensor is knackered
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:11 PM   #62
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yep thats what it means, check the fuse for it though in the engine bay fusebox 1st, then change the sensor, reset ecu and hope for the best
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:18 PM   #63
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code 52

just looked on draper diagnostics, its come up with

Mixture control, supply voltage, air or exhaust leak

anyone give me and idea where to look for the first 2

cheers quin,

posted the last post before i saw your reply,

how do you rest the ecu?

Last edited by pissflap303; 14-01-2011 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:24 PM   #64
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take battery off for a while

mixture controll means the lambda i guess, but yea an air leak can piss it off too so check for that in exhaust/mani before lambda and on inlet etc
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:42 PM   #65
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thanks for that quin,

fuses all ok,

will check air leaks tomorrow

hope its not the sensor, there quite dear
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Old 14-01-2011, 03:54 PM   #66
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think there around 50 mate, just be sure to check if you have a 4 pin 1single plug or 2 2pin plugs you can get universal ones and join your old plug on for around 20 , heard there not much good but never had any experience myself
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Old 14-01-2011, 04:09 PM   #67
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I have the same fault 52 on my S1.

I need a new Lambda sensor.
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Old 19-01-2011, 12:49 PM   #68
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no air leaks, new lambda sensor and still brings up that code any help guys
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Old 19-01-2011, 04:36 PM   #69
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Talking

ok mate next thing is to check your timing hasnt jumped a tooth, mine was running a tooth out when i got it, and always came up with code 52, theres a guide in haynes or probably on here somewhere
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:04 PM   #70
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there a video floating around of anyone doing this? start to finish??
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:35 PM   #71
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??? anyone
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Old 09-05-2011, 06:42 AM   #72
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theres no video of it mate, where are you getting stuck? the guide is a little off i think, basically
get green plug at front of ecu tray
flip so metal clip is underneath
insert a wire into the pin now on your left - approx 2m long

get in car
turn on ignition - 2nd click
have an assistant touch the wire down to the neutral term of the battery and hold it there for 5 secs and relese

ecu light on dials will flash 1,1 or 1, 2 i forget... but this means start of test
get assistant to touch down wire for another 5 secs

repeat untill you get the end of test flashes

there will be a table somewhere of thecodes
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:16 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quin View Post
theres no video of it mate, where are you getting stuck? the guide is a little off i think, basically
get green plug at front of ecu tray
flip so metal clip is underneath
insert a wire into the pin now on your left - approx 2m long

get in car
turn on ignition - 2nd click
have an assistant touch the wire down to the neutral term of the battery and hold it there for 5 secs and relese

ecu light on dials will flash 1,1 or 1, 2 i forget... but this means start of test
get assistant to touch down wire for another 5 secs

repeat untill you get the end of test flashes

there will be a table somewhere of thecodes
many thanks
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:13 AM   #74
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right last night i made a video for everybody, can i email it to somebody so they can put it up in this thread please? ive also re written the instructions to make things a little clearer and have a table of fault codes

ta
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:18 AM   #75
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How big is the file, Quin? I don't think my YouTube account works any more so I can't upload it for you.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:32 PM   #76
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hi mate, one is 6.77 mb and the other 504k not sure what the word doc is with the code table in but probs naff all
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:42 PM   #77
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whats the procedure for doing this? i've done it before but cannot remember exactly what you do. i know you touch the wire to earth, but other than that i'm not sure. mine is throwing up the engine light on acceleration at the moment
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:15 AM   #78
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anybody save any of the linked pages? they aren't working anymore
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Old 19-03-2014, 02:41 PM   #79
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hang on mate don't come on here much any more but may still have those files myself

with the spring clip facing down place a piece of small gauge wire into the left pin of the green plug by the ecu tray. turn on ignition (2nd click) now as always ecu light will illuminate. earth your piece of wire for approx 5 seconds (during this time the light will go out) now you will get a flash code. i believe the first is 12 which is shown as *flash* pause *flash* *flash* ...... now earth the wire again and await next series of flashes, so *flash* *flash* *flash**flash**flash* puase *flash**flash*. is 52 - lambda

i will try and search out the table of codes

don't seem to have the codes any more I'm afraid, i know 52 is lambda as I've had that code enough times over the years

Last edited by quin; 19-03-2014 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:11 AM   #80
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Hi,
I tried to reach the instructions on peugeotclubmalaysia.com, but I failed. Does anyone have a copy of it? I'd like to try to read my ECU fault codes. Thanks in advance!

Update:
I found similar page, I hope it helps others as well. I managed to read the fault codes: 52, 34, 44....


http://www.peugeot.i8.com/DIY/DIY_EC...ing/Page_1.htm

Update 2:

Above I read many times, that clearing fault code was not possible. I had similar issue, when I tried to erase fault code as written in the articles. However when I tried to erase it just after reading the fault codes without switching off before, it was perfect.
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