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Suspension, Handling & Brakes Suspension set ups, uprated brakes

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Old 01-07-2010, 10:56 AM   #1
indigorallye
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Top Mounts- Summary

I've just been reading through some threads on top mounts:

Compbrake- some fit no problems, some don't. Seems to be a bit hit and miss. Those that fit are good quality and reccomended.

Pugsport, grp N- good quality, fit no problem. Not adjustable. Suitable as an upgrade from standard mounts only.

AST- good quality, good fitment. Suitable as a further upgrade over the grp N stuff.


Any others?
Any additions/ amendments?
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:19 AM   #2
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Mike,

Might be worth looking at the OBP top mounts in this thread: http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2...ad.php?t=64052
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:27 AM   #3
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Do you know what geometry you want to run?

Do you use 2.5" springs or 2.25"? What poundage springs?
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:34 AM   #4
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I am going to be on 2.5" and looking to run 3deg neg camber.

The thread is more of a general guide for all, rather than being specific to me.
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:38 AM   #5
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Are the leda's modded at all to increase camber?

My car runs 1.25 deg neg camber...

You may need to get an adapter plate made like i did.
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indigorallye View Post
I am going to be on 2.5" and looking to run 3deg neg camber.

The thread is more of a general guide for all, rather than being specific to me.
3 degrees Done any testing to back that up?

Dave did you measure the standard camber before you messed around with it??
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:33 PM   #7
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Isnt the camber rather dependant on ride height?
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:46 PM   #8
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That OBP ones look really nice, can't see that particular example in thier shop though
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
That OBP ones look really nice, can't see that particular example in thier shop though
I found the same thing
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
3 degrees Done any testing to back that up?
Yes.
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:26 PM   #11
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I've got the AST ones on my car, running 3 degrees without any problems, i think the price of the AST's have gone up alot since i bought mine though.
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:12 PM   #12
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I do believe Stew Baker (BBM) may be doing some soon, I know he has done 205 ones so far.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:24 PM   #13
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Just seen the pics of Stu's setup again, looks fantastic!

AST lovelyness! Although as you can see the strut has to be dropped to adjust them. Not ideal but how often will they need adjusting really?





Compbrake not fitting properly, seriously how are they still in business?



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Old 01-07-2010, 07:52 PM   #14
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can you use a holesaw and weld???

if so i can supply these that incorporate a top mount stiffener within there design....



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Old 01-07-2010, 08:16 PM   #15
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My regs stipulate:
Quote:
Suspension:
Suspension is un-restricted but standard pick up points must be retained even if not used.
Would your design constitute altering the standard pick up point?
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:25 PM   #16
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How much Stu? Not that I have any money but they're sexual!

Now sell me your digi dash
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:46 PM   #17
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i can provide a drilling jig that will locate the centre of the damper rod in exactly the same location as the NON pas position .....

200 for everything in the box (and 2 drilling jigs to holesaw your topmounts) delivered to your door....


Al- digidash is staying put in the rattlebox i`m affraid..

look.. its all bolted in now!! lol http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=Photo804.jpg

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Old 01-07-2010, 08:59 PM   #18
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That's a bargain! Less than the AST mounts on their own.

Digidash looks good, hard to wire up?
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:10 PM   #19
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fuck knows.. TDF are supplying the ECU, making full car+engine looms, calibrating dash and mapping the car lol


back on topic... considering what you get reinforced top mount +adjustable + no need to drop strut to move + if req`d the jig can be supplied with extra CASTOR its reasoable imo...
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
Dave did you measure the standard camber before you messed around with it??
That is the std camber, its just increased slightly as a result of the car being a bit lower than std... its only the castor i've increased, the top of the strut now sits 1" further back than the PAS top mount position.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenparbitch View Post
can you use a holesaw and weld???

if so i can supply these that incorporate a top mount stiffener within there design....



how would one adjust the castor with those? is it fixed?
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:11 AM   #22
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It doesn't look like they're adjustable for castor.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:42 AM   #23
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I suppose you can pre-set your castor when you weld in the plates.
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Old 02-07-2010, 05:16 PM   #24
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correct...

i have jigs drawn up in cad that i supply to the laser cutters so the hole can be cut at any position...

mine are about 15mm further back than the NON pas position..
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:14 PM   #25
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Any position within reason... 15mm back from the non PAS postition would mean its around the PAS postition so castor is minimal.

I guess the great debate should be whats the best set up inc castor/camber/toe/spring rate etc.

It would be interesting to hear from Garry.M and/or Sandy on this subject.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:33 PM   #26
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ahhh which is the position nearest the bulkhead??? whatver that is its 15mm extra on top of that...

as for the "whats best" debate.. i think a lot of it comes down to personal preferance, the cars use, ... obviously certain things such as bumpsteer need to be as close to zero as possible but the "feel" of a car is a touch harder to pin down imo...

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Old 02-07-2010, 10:46 PM   #27
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PAS position is nearest bulkhead.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:58 PM   #28
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ahhh... well 15mm extra on that lol.....

unfortunatly in doing so the steering arms pass ******* close to the rack during travel lol
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:01 PM   #29
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I have a bend in my steering arm to clear the rack.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:07 PM   #30
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hahaha you found that too????

i remade my arms with rosejoints + tube and put a spacer on the inboard end with refabricated brackets hahaha i think when i may take that out and do similar to yourself in the future
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:28 PM   #31
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The joys of modding cars!
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:09 AM   #32
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We have bought the top mounts from Stewart Baker (baker BM) that are ment for 205 and modified the turret top:







We have mount it that way that it is more castor adjustable than camber.
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Old 21-12-2010, 04:16 PM   #33
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at what site do they sell obp?

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Old 21-12-2010, 04:28 PM   #34
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at what site do they sell obp?
http://www.obpltd.com/
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Old 21-12-2010, 05:51 PM   #35
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where can i get the pugsport topmounts from?


edit - no worries, just found the special tuning website, any where else though any cheaper?

do i need the strengthening plates welded to the top of the struts with the grp n mounts?

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Old 19-07-2012, 09:44 PM   #36
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If i am running coilovers, and comp brake
Top mounts.. Do i need another peice? That sits underneath?
And it seem like the nut is only managing to tighten on half the thead on my
Damper..

Any help would be great
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Old 19-07-2012, 09:51 PM   #37
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You may need to machine/thread the top 15-20mm of the strut... And/or machine down the nut at the top.
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Old 19-07-2012, 09:54 PM   #38
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The top hat sits on the top of the spring, then on top of that you put a centralising spacer which you get with the compbrake mounts, then mounts then nut to tighten on top. Hope that makes sense.
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Old 19-07-2012, 11:00 PM   #39
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It sort of makes sense buddy..So i have the spring at the bottom, then the alloy coilover top hat, then the original top hat bearing??and triangle shaped bit?? That then has the compbrake too hat on, which is a located aswell which sits in the bearing.. Then the threaded nut goes down through?
If i dont use the standard bearing.. And sit the too hat against the topmount itll grind and clonk..

But like dave said (thankyou). Im going to have to have some machined off because when its all assembled.. Only about 8mm of the thread is being used, out of about 25mm.

A picture of it assembled would be nice?

I can get hold of some gaz damper inserts if they fit better than bilstiens for some reason,

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Old 19-07-2012, 11:22 PM   #40
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I had my PSF Tarmac dampers machined for this very reason.



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Old 20-07-2012, 08:37 AM   #41
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I have just done this with B8's and compbrake top mounts

However I had the spring top cap machined to 20mm and had the top nut (locking nut) machined down and mine fit together great:


Have a look on my 106oc blog as there is more info and pictures on there:
http://www.106owners.co.uk/forums/sh...03#post2427703
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Old 20-07-2012, 01:14 PM   #42
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Quote:
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I have just done this with B8's and compbrake top mounts

However I had the spring top cap machined to 20mm and had the top nut (locking nut) machined down and mine fit together great:


Have a look on my 106oc blog as there is more info and pictures on there:
http://www.106owners.co.uk/forums/sh...03#post2427703
Thats exactly what i want mine to be like! My spring tophat has a massive hole in it, which sits on the original top mount bearings, have you got a picture of all assembled buddy?
Im gonna check out your blog now,

And alexandre that looks awesome, thats how i want mine to look!
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Old 20-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #43
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In the begining I was having the same problems as you the thread only came into the first 10 or so mm of the top nut this worried me and really didnt look right I then did some digging/research and found the picture below

So this is how I have mine (like the one at the bottom of the picture below) Dunc hope you dont mind me nicking your picture!


To get to this the spring top cap had to go from a 12mm hole:


To a 20mm hole:


this allowed the top cap to slide over the thicker shoulder of the insert and it now stops against the insert collar

then the top nut had to have a small amount machined off the bottom (original height right):


this the allowed the top nut to clamp the top mount bearing onto the spring cap as before the top nut was machined it locked out on the insert shoulder

And how they currently stand:







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Old 20-07-2012, 03:33 PM   #44
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nice one!
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Old 20-07-2012, 03:42 PM   #45
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nice one!
Thanks
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #46
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compbrake topmount

Hi there.
After seeing this posts here, i'm worried about mine. When i bought the car the Compbrake topmount was on, but it is mounted on top of strut(house) (dunno what you guys calls it)
Se pictures.



What do you think. It's easy to change camber and castor when its mounted this way, but is it strong enough. Dunno how long the other guy has driven with these like this, but the way its mounted, gives just 50mm more lovering.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:11 PM   #47
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I cant see the picture, but there's quite a few people that run them on top on here.
I was worried about this setup aswell as I'm looking for topmount to use, but after some investigation there's a lad running them on top on a forest rally car so I'm sure yours will be fine.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:18 PM   #48
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I have just tried to change picture. But you say that a guy have them on top and he's rallying. Then mine will be good to. thx.
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Old 29-03-2014, 05:11 PM   #49
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anyone here used the compbrake topmounts with a GAZ coilover setup yet? I need to figure out what top pan to use (2,5'' springs), so it's as small/low as possible but still being tapered enough to clear the topmounts themselves. Any recommendations on this?
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