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Old 22-07-2015, 08:49 AM   #1
Petros
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New owner from Croatia

Hi all

I wanted to register on some forum and this is the best I found. I bought white S1 Rallye two days ago but am going to pick him up tomorrow

It is from 1994 and it has 125000km on clock from first owner who lived in Italie,and its all stock with service history which he did every two years.
It got few flaws like scratched front bumber, few tiny bumps on drivers door, the driving seat has broken right side of lumbal support and it has no inside mirror and rear shelf of a trunk is mising...

I am car enthusiast and this is my first real car just for pleasure

Will post some pictures soon...
Cheers all
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:00 AM   #2
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Pictures added









I am still wondering what this red "LINE" sign on left rear end present?
I google it but found anything about it,anyone?
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:57 PM   #3
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it certainly isn't a standard sticker.

welcome along.
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:45 PM   #4
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:19 PM   #5
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Cheers guys

Tomorrow that sticker is going off...
Hope to do some serious service soon, there will be plenty things to change.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:01 PM   #6
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Car is curently on complete service, every part was original and never changed till now.Only thing which was maintained was engine and it is in excellent condition
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Old 17-12-2015, 10:43 PM   #7
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Had my first track day with Rallye, all went fine except tires

Here is a short video of my "fast" lap:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmWbZSIYH2U

All in all, I am very happy with car overall.It still has some things to take care of and will have it some more in future but I enjoy driving it every day.Just clocked 130k km, and just two months after service I noticed that car want idle as it should, revs sometime stuck in 1500-2000rpm, but only sometime, for now

Cheers all
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:19 PM   #8
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Bought wheel,seat and every thing to mount it in and harnesses.
Wheel has been inside for few days and today I finnaly got time to put bucket seat in
Harnesses will have to whait one free day so I can remove rear seats to see if they can be stuck on rear seatbelt adapter.Hope they do becouse I dont want any hole on car.The left and right harness will go into bracket probably.



I got seatbelt adapter from my original seat and screw it on bracket, probably not safe and smart


Still need to fine tune seat possition but it feels nice driving in it.


Also I have found c5 steelies, tomorrow I might buy them if they are good enough.
Next to buy are semi slick tires for track and occasional slalom and uphill races, DS2500 brake pads and will change my exhaust one day...
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:37 AM   #9
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Nice video, good driving.
You need a little more power. Change the manifold to a 4-2-1, remove the Cat and have the rear exhaust replaced to start with.
Add a group N chip into the ECU so you won't hit the rev limit and have some more fuel.
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Old 26-08-2016, 11:52 PM   #10
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All out









I wanted to took all on dry cleaning but here on island I had nowhere to do that
But I did clean all with a sponge and other things.Did refresh it but sadly I couldnt clean my carpet as I wanted to, that stain is still there.

Till now only bucket seat is back in car with harnesses to try.Wonder how much does it weights now



They are attached to rear passengers belt, not the best solution but I dont wont any hole on
car...Still have to adjust them properly



I need some steering wheels spacers to make wheel 1" closer to me or deeper new wheel.Also wish I have lower seat base






I have some problem with engine.It is only happening when engine is cold,in first 5min maybe.Between 3000-4000rpm it starts to cough,like as it has no air.
This all started after I (not me personaly) changed top radiator hose
Octobar is time for servis...will change few things then
For now I bought Bilstein B4 and C5 steelies,still need to paint them.
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Old 27-08-2016, 09:07 AM   #11
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you can clean your carpet with a high water pressure gun, works very good. just go to one of those car wash places and have it done (for you).
I wouldn't change your car too much, it's still in such an original condition. The steelies are good and I don't think you will notice a considerable improvement in acceleration with these c5 wheels. Better spend some money on your your exhaust system to get more flow, and also change the chip in the ECU.

Last edited by micheldeman; 27-08-2016 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 27-08-2016, 01:28 PM   #12
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Hm I didnt think off pressure gun,will try next time,tnx.
C5 steelies are for track only with some semislick which I need to buy yet.
Exhaust is on plan, whould like to change from manifold but they are too expensive.If not will decat it with some good rear exhaust.I like pugsport or kam racing(sound and looks), but I can buy used Supersprint for very low price only dont like 100mm exhaust pipe.Also heard they are very noisy which is not what I want realy.
The exhaust is only thing I will change to gain some power, other things will stay stock.
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Old 27-08-2016, 10:46 PM   #13
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nice rallye petros and nice lap!
car looks in very good condition, despite the small electrical/engine problems
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Old 28-08-2016, 11:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex_GR View Post
nice rallye petros and nice lap!
car looks in very good condition, despite the small electrical/engine problems
Tnx

Am a bit worried about engine now,had no problems till now(except rpm idle),its strange that hose can be a problem or maybe there is some air in system...it is like this since May but I dont drive it daily now in the summer becouse of the traffic and heat,and becouse I bought small moped.
When warmed up its all good but oil temp move up faster than before
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Old 31-08-2016, 08:59 AM   #15
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Dobrodosao!!! ��
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Old 23-10-2016, 11:16 PM   #16
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Next month is service time!
Car is whaiting for new Bilstein b4 all around, ATE power disc at front with Ferodo DS2500, new brake cylinders and pads at rear,engine mounts,gear linkage,drop links and some bushes and new engine Idle menagment.
That is plan for now if my mechanic doesent found something more...

Am thinking of buying brake stainless steel hoses curently.

Still need to change my seat base, bought lowered from JPR to put me few cm lower to ground.
Home is whaiting Fuchs PRO S 10W-50 for track day I will do this year and Motul rbf600.
Also C5 steelies are whaiting for painting and have bought Nankang NS-2R semislick for them.

More info soon with some pictures
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Old 28-10-2016, 07:37 PM   #17
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C5 steelies are done.
I hand brushed them and gave it to my friend for painting,they turned out pretty nice.





On car they look a bit to big with 195/50 15 tires on.I do have a bit of scrub on full lock but nothing to worry about.







Curently tires are on 1.9bar (recommended hot pressure is between 1.8-2.2) will lower them but will see how much will they heat on road for now.
Sadly I bought road version of them,they didnt had track one.As I was told the grip is same, the difference is in heating.Road needs 2-3 laps to heat while track one are good after a lap but they start to lose grip/fade sooner.Its not want I wanted as I will try to race next month (3 stints on track with chichane) just for experience.

I also cleaned my steelies from inside,belive they havent be cleaned ever.Will return them on car in day or two just to test new tires a bit more

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Old 28-10-2016, 08:55 PM   #18
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Svaka cast!!!!!!
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:35 AM   #19
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The car is back

There where few more things to change but I dont know how to explain in english.

Car feels really nice on new whishbone and arb bushes,new dampers and other stuff, really soft ride.
Unfortunatly engine still have idle problem after changing that small engine idle but it works a bit better.
Mechanic still need to figure what the problem could be.

The pads I ordered does not match my bendix calipers so must return them for the right one so discs are not changed yet,neither the brake fluid.

Gear changing is bit precise with new linkage and it seems lighter to change them now.

New lower seat base is in.



But will need to adjust my seat with some home made side mounts,you can see a problem on picture below:



Did manage to get better position after this:



But I'm not happy with this temporary idea.


Next is to adjust geometry and just enjoy driving it
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:47 PM   #20
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Ciao Petros! Dobrodošao na ovaj forum! Lijep ti je Rallye

Good luck with the car!
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:48 PM   #21
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Hvala ljudi
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Old 14-11-2016, 06:10 PM   #22
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Geometry done and did my first track day on new wheels.
The grip was great even on cold and moisty day.
Thing I dont like is that they rub inside on rear tires when car land after a curb or small elevation change
I should have bought original Michelin wheels and some 14" tires.

The track is small/slow but fun, first time there and will come in future to learn and improve my driving.
Here is a short video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovGhpQQPKFo

Will change maf sensor in few day but l'm still in hurry of buying pads for next weekend...
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Old 15-11-2016, 08:52 AM   #23
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You are welcome to join us on a few trackdays next year: www.timeattack.si or check our facebook page.
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Old 15-11-2016, 09:52 AM   #24
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Great, will do one day.
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Old 22-11-2016, 08:16 AM   #25
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So this weekend I tried to compete for the first time.
Was fun and nice experience but runs are short,not much time for prepare with my limited experience, I'm more of doing lap after lap.
Maybe I do this again but will see.

I had trening lap and 3 stints.On trening I got red flag becouse someone crash in one of chicanes.So my first lap was really in 1st stint,played safe and easy.2nd did push a bit more and in third I did mistake in chichane so I went off track not to touch barier but sadly the last one I didnt film.

Here is short video from second fastest stint;

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xM1QIuDzCDQ

Unfortunatly I'm selling new wheel and tires.
The rear tires rub inside and out on chassis.I did ask for opinion on few places and all said it's ok, but when you push a car sadly it's not that good as you can see in pictures below.

Inside:


Outside:





So I'm again in look for original Michelin wheels and some tires

Brakes are changed on weekend and maf sensore will be in a few days...

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Old 27-11-2016, 08:50 PM   #26
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Found these pics from last weekend







Tomorrow car will get new maf sensor, but last days I have loud knocking at front,belive it's drive shaft
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Old 17-01-2017, 11:58 AM   #27
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Sold my set of C5 steelies and bought original Rallye rims

Not in to good condition,yet:


Now looking for appropriate tyres.

New maf sensor did a engine run better, much better rpm idle and engine now actually brake when I go down the hill.

Ordered new drive shafts(apparently used for cup cars,UK production) and will change my gearbox fluid and seals together with it next month.

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Old 22-02-2017, 10:48 PM   #28
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Driveshaft changed, damn knocking sound is still there

Next possible thing should be steering rack.
Engine started to run lumpy again,some time it stays on 2000rpm.

Looking to buy some tires for track, still very undecided.Hope to get them till april to join some trackday...
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Old 23-02-2017, 08:47 AM   #29
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Sticking ICV? Damn these S1s...had the same problems with mine...
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Old 23-02-2017, 05:55 PM   #30
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Maybe
Did change it in november together with maf sensor.Engine worked great first two months.
My mechanic doubt in water temperature sensor which turns chock on and off,every thing else was changed.

With this problem happening all the time I may not change my exhaust, it will be unbearable to listen.
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Old 21-05-2017, 10:01 AM   #31
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Did a rainy track day yesterday, was great to drive,but...
Had 2 stints of 25min, temperatures where fine but more in higher range offcourse.
All fluids was checked day before and was on max level

Later after 30min driving to friends house and later on my way home,after a hour of driving I noticed smoke from behind and as I slowed down immediatly It went more from the hood.

I lost all the wather from cooler,level was below minimum.
Smoke was coming as wather was all over the engine.
Whaited engine to cool a bit and put wather in cooler.
Didnt notice any leak until I fired up engine.
It started normaly and and temps where normal but below cooler wather was coming like crazy so turned it off and called a service truck...

My mistake is I didnt check fluids after a session,did check under hood to see if there is anything suspiciuos but as u see I failed.
Also had a mistake under braking and went into gravel so maybe this could have damaged cooler,video will upload later...

Edit:

Maybe last mistake damaged cooler
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcfKBjNP6eg

Hope is just the cooler to replace and not something more with a engine.




1st stint:

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=rQ4mY-_O3L4

best lap:

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=A4tC2GU1QS0
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Old 22-05-2017, 08:35 AM   #32
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I see you were also on Grobnik on Saturday. Shame you didn't wait till around 3 o'clock as it cleared up and the track was dry in a couple of minutes. We waited and then drove till 5 o'clock.
Nice to drive in the wet too on Grobnik track
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Old 22-05-2017, 01:59 PM   #33
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
I see you were also on Grobnik on Saturday. Shame you didn't wait till around 3 o'clock as it cleared up and the track was dry in a couple of minutes. We waited and then drove till 5 o'clock.
Nice to drive in the wet too on Grobnik track
Whit what car you where there?
Only saw one blue 106 on trailer when went away...

I was very happy that it rained,more fun to drive.
I had plan to stay there a bit longer to watch but had no where to hide from rain and was a bit cold in shorts.
When I saw Seat race was at 14 a clock I just went away.
I went on track a bit after 10 and was finished till 11:30 as I only took one hour to drive.
Dont know how car whould handle all day there.

Even like this had problem going home

Next time I'll come in autumn to drive on new asphalt


So this is a couse why wather was leaking:


Termostat hose, new one is 10€...
Glad is only this,just hope it didnt damaged cooler.
Tomorrow should car be ready and will pick him up this week.
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Old 23-05-2017, 08:49 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
Whit what car you where there?
Only saw one blue 106 on trailer when went away...
Yes, that is my mates car. I only came to watch but then he asked me if I want to drive and I bought a 2nd driver ticket and drove a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
I was very happy that it rained,more fun to drive.
I had plan to stay there a bit longer to watch but had no where to hide from rain and was a bit cold in shorts.
Yes, it is really fun to drive here in wet. Hope it will be similar tarmac when they replace it in July.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
When I saw Seat race was at 14 a clock I just went away.
I went on track a bit after 10 and was finished till 11:30 as I only took one hour to drive.
Dont know how car whould handle all day there.
The race was not that long and soon after the race it stopped raining and the tarmac dried in 20 minutes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
So this is a couse why wather was leaking:
http://i.imgur.com/Dq4nWfz.jpg
Termostat hose, new one is 10...
Glad is only this,just hope it didnt damaged cooler.
Tomorrow should car be ready and will pick him up this week.
This happens a lot on these old cars. The problem you had is because of leaking oil somewhere near that hose. The oil softens the rubber.

I have a couple of things from my car so if you need anything just ask and I will look if I have it. Basically the whole interior and some stuff from the engine and suspension.
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Old 23-05-2017, 10:26 AM   #35
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That is nicely tuned 106 from your friend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
This happens a lot on these old cars. The problem you had is because of leaking oil somewhere near that hose. The oil softens the rubber.
Hope you are wrong about this, dont need any other problem
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:06 PM   #36
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Got my car back few days ago...
Mechanic told me that head gasket is probably gone and showed me air/bubbles coming from cooling water.

Trip home was very careful and slow,for 200km I just stared in engine and oil temp.
Car just turend 143k km on way home.
Noticed engine temp is going up and down depend which corner I take, in left goes down and right up, so I dont trust that anymore.
Temeratures where all fine during whole day.What was strange, two times I smelled cooling wather inside.

That night I checked for fluids when completely cooled, it was laking a bit of cooling water, not sure about oil but before track day it was full and now was half cm lower.

Next day added water in expansion tank and drove a bit, car starts normal and working like a clock.Checked for bubbles but nothing and level of water was the same, did the same next day and its all ok.
There is no smoke from exhaust or engine,no mayonese under oil cap,no oil in water and no water in oil so dont thing the gasket is done.

Expansion tank is very dirty becouse it was cooking when my hose blew a week before.



What worry me is sound of engine, is not the same any more.I noticed it got a bit different while driving on track but tought it could be exhaust.I didnt stop, drove few more laps I belive.
It sounds more metal now, specially around air intake.

I dindt have guts to push it and do more damage.
I will go to my mechanic in a few weeks hopefully but dont want to drive car now


Any advice whould be great
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Old 14-08-2017, 09:24 PM   #37
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Small update, car is with mechanic for last 20 days, it got a bit complicated offcourse...

New head gasket was oredered from Peugeot Sport in France as no one had one to sell,so it came after long 15 days.

The old one has blown:





Mechanic completed engine few days ago, he changed that gasket,refurbished head, changed cambelt, new spark plugs and complete filter and oils was changed.
Again went with Fuchs Pro S 10w-50

Engine started from first try

Few more engine pics:








Curently, next problem is steering rack.I ordered one as they tought this is the same as every other 106 rack...but Rallye is special little car in every way
Still in search for right rack but no luck yet, maybe we just refurbished them somewhere

Difference:



Becouse of all whaiting I had to remove my license plate as my mot expired
But it should be on road soon,I hope in max 10 days am going to get him.

And pics I found from last track day







I should really get that front bumper done, its itchying my eyes
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Old 16-08-2017, 09:31 AM   #38
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Ih Petros, i found you!!

Its great !

What a fantastic track, I loved to be able to drive there, many good corners to lift off;
I saw a movie in the rain, the car seemed to me with a lot of grip, quite neutral. What tires and suspension do you have?
I've already seen that you have the original gearbox, which is quite short compared to mine.
It seemed to me that the car is fairly neutral, it flees from the front when you exaggerate ... I lose the rear very easily.
Also use nankang ns2R (compound 120) are very good for alcatrao cold / wet ... but the problem is that they withstand little temperature on hot days.
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Old 16-08-2017, 10:32 AM   #39
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Yes it is very good track and it has a lot off grip even in rain.
It has old tarmac which is to harsh for tires, but on spring it will finally get new tarmac.

Gearbox is one of things I really like with this car,a lot of work with it
Car is on Falken zx914 tires in original dimension,and stock suspension
Everything is stock except seat and steering wheel

Car do feel mostley neutral, deepeds how driven.
I have some understeer if carry to much speed in corner which can go to oversteer if not smooth with releasing brakes
I lost rear only once, it happend on that track day in rain,
was first lap in 2nd stint and I released pressure from fronts tires earlier...
On next rear lost I went offtrack,but I catch it but there was no track anymore

But if you have lowerd your front is normal that rear get loose more
I may put eibach one day to see how it goes.

About Nankang tires, I had same just hard compound(180), and before I was buying them I talked with guy who sells them and he drove then Saxo track ready car and has experience with most of tires as he tried them all.
He told me that grip between 120 and 180 is same,only difference is 120 get up to temeratures quicker but also loose grip earlier,after 5 laps on Grobnik track from video you saw.
180 needs a bit more to heat up but can do more laps and not overheat, so if you like to do longer stints 180 should be better

Last edited by Petros; 01-09-2017 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 16-08-2017, 12:15 PM   #40
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Yeah, i love my S1 on track as well

Yes, it's the same in the Estoril circuit. I make 3 or 4 quick laps and then I lose grip due to temperature.
Your car looks like a good thing with original suspension. If you put springs in front, maybe you will notice the loose rear.
I have B8 with faulkner springs, it improved a lot but the back was very "alive", so I put the rear ax from 19mm to 24mm. Now it's more neutral and the lift off happens later, with more speed and more controlled, you can see this in some of my movies.
Next trackday and on September 30, I will try to put 2 toyo r888 on the front wheels.
My gearbox (since I have a 1.6 gti block) is the Cup / Gti's gearbox longer than yours.
But as I have to change the clutch I'm going to put a short gearbox like yours to test on the track.
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Old 16-08-2017, 06:50 PM   #41
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You should benefit from shorter gearbox on that track, bit better acceleration and may suit track better.

You changed rear torsion bar or raised rear height?
With both options rear should be more agile.
But maybe less roll with stiffer arb make rear bit precise or less tricky.Dont know, just saying what I think.

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Old 17-08-2017, 09:07 AM   #42
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Hi Petros


I removed the 19mm bar that is inside the rear axle, and stuck a 24mm of a 106 GTI.
I kept the drum brakes and everything else, I just changed the bar.
The car is better now, but I need tires because the Nankang can not stand the rhythm.
I think they've had too many heat cycles and the rubber has lost its properties.
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Old 13-09-2017, 04:57 PM   #43
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Picked my car yesterday, finally.

First thing was to do geometry as steering wheel was 30 degrees left after steering rack change.
On way there noticed I still have some knocking sound from suspension in right lower part.Sometime it happen when parking and sometime when realise brake while turning in cornes.Just do knock,or knock knock knock but dont feel it.
But dont like the sound.My suspiciuos is on some bushes maybe but every part on suspension is new.

Now about engine...
Immediatly noticed loud sound of ventils, not normal.
Mechanic tryed to adjust them twice but it stayed the same.
He think crankshaft have some damage or some bearing is bent or something.
So if the knocking become more loud that should be it unfortunatly.
Will se how it goes while time pass...

The good part is car goes very well,it pulls stronger.
After long,boring any raining trip on way home finnaly was time to see will there be problems on pushing it.
Was suprised how it went uphill when overtaking few cars or I just forgot how good it goes usually
It has BMC filter inside now,and induction sound is even more pronounced.And compression is probably bigger now after porting the head.

Engine run normally,temperatures are great and none problems.

But am sad becouse of that loud rattle sound,wasnt like that before I screw engine.
So not sure what to do now except drive and se how things will go.

If I will have to open engine again my mechanic is recommending me conversion to 1.6 block as they have steel gasket.I like idea of more hp but it wont be original anymore.

Will think about it

Last edited by Petros; 13-09-2017 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 14-09-2017, 02:02 PM   #44
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Hi Petros
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
First thing was to do geometry as steering wheel was 30 degrees left after steering rack change.
On way there noticed I still have some knocking sound from suspension in right lower part.Sometime it happen when parking and sometime when realise brake while turning in cornes.Just do knock,or knock knock knock but dont feel it.
But dont like the sound.My suspiciuos is on some bushes maybe but every part on suspension is new.
Have you checked top mount bearings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
Now about engine...
Immediatly noticed loud sound of ventils, not normal.
Mechanic tryed to adjust them twice but it stayed the same.
He think crankshaft have some damage or some bearing is bent or something.
So if the knocking become more loud that should be it unfortunately.
Will se how it goes while time pass...
That doesn't sound good. The thing is...it doesn't go away and loud knocking can have bad results on the valvetrain. Maybe the setting was not done properly, as it is easy to set them wrong. One option also is to set them while the engine is very hot, but it isn't practical and I haven't tried it my self.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
The good part is car goes very well,it pulls stronger.
After long,boring any raining trip on way home finnaly was time to see will there be problems on pushing it.
Was suprised how it went uphill when overtaking few cars or I just forgot how good it goes usually
It has BMC filter inside now,and induction sound is even more pronounced.And compression is probably bigger now after porting the head.
The compression can't be bigger if the head is ported. The only things that influence the dynamic compression ratio are camshaft, cam timing, head skimming etc. Ports don't do squat to compression ratio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
Engine run normally,temperatures are great and none problems.

But am sad becouse of that loud rattle sound,wasnt like that before I screw engine.
So not sure what to do now except drive and se how things will go.

If I will have to open engine again my mechanic is recommending me conversion to 1.6 block as they have steel gasket.I like idea of more hp but it wont be original anymore.

Will think about it
There won't be any power increase without remap if you switch to 1.6 bottom end. AFR's will be all over the place as the ECU can't adapt to such big changes, especially not on full throttle.
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Old 14-09-2017, 03:27 PM   #45
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Tnx for help

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
Hi Petros
Have you checked top mount bearings?
Hm,it could be it.I did buy rubber that goes in there when changing dampers but they was not for 106 so had to put original back.But maybe shoulded bought complete mount.
Will check it next time,tnx

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
That doesn't sound good. The thing is...it doesn't go away and loud knocking can have bad results on the valvetrain. Maybe the setting was not done properly, as it is easy to set them wrong. One option also is to set them while the engine is very hot, but it isn't practical and I haven't tried it my self.
The sound was like that when took car home after the hose blew and car stop on road while returning home from track day.I noticed it when picked up car few days later.
Usually mechanic do a good job so dont think valves are set wrong.He did try one more time to be sure but it was the same.
Dont know what to do know

Can valves hit to much in head becouse of skimmed head?


Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
The compression can't be bigger if the head is ported. The only things that influence the dynamic compression ratio are camshaft, cam timing, head skimming etc. Ports don't do squat to compression ratio.
Yea,head skimming,sorry I wrote it totally wrong


Quote:
Originally Posted by drmo View Post
There won't be any power increase without remap if you switch to 1.6 bottom end. AFR's will be all over the place as the ECU can't adapt to such big changes, especially not on full throttle.
Offcourse, will do a remap, but whould like to change complete exhaust before that, and maybe but some chip if needed.

But as I said, whould like to keep it original
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Old 15-09-2017, 08:49 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
The sound was like that when took car home after the hose blew and car stop on road while returning home from track day.I noticed it when picked up car few days later.
Usually mechanic do a good job so dont think valves are set wrong.He did try one more time to be sure but it was the same.
Dont know what to do know

Can valves hit to much in head becouse of skimmed head?
So the sound was there before the mechanic put it apart? He just replaced the hose? I suppose you lost a lot of coolant, but don't know how would that affect the sound of the engine, especially after head gasket replacement and valve setting. Was there a lot of coolant in oil when the headgasket blew? Could also be the bearings if the sound is present only on light throttle, but if the sound doesn't go away on full throttle I don't think that is the case.
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Old 15-09-2017, 11:12 AM   #47
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When hose blew I took it to mechanic near by, he there replaced the hose and coolant liquid.Hi told me gasket blew probably.I took it home like that and after a while I took it to my mechanic to do the job.

I noticed that valve sound was when I took car first time from first mechanic.When hose blew I lost allmost all liquid, I stopt and whaited engine to cool.
After while I added wather in allmost empty tank.I put maybe 1l , it was allmost full, there was no leaking until I turned on engine and water started to leaking badly again.So turned it off and called a service truck.

Engine overheated on track probably,when the gasket blew , and hose got a damage.Engine still worked normaly but on way home after few hours the hose blew totaly and wather started to leaking on engine with lot of white smoke.

So my mechanic did a head skimming,replaced gasket, belt, fileters and oil and adjusted valves twice.
The sound is still there, but on throttle only, when am in neutral and engine is on idle (1000rpm) sound is normal I think.
When on throttle it become more loud,and raising rpm is still the same sound only faster offcourse.

Am not sure about coolant in engine, will have to ask him.When I looked I didnt notice any water in oil or oposite.But I did lost oil after track day so it did go somewhere...

Last edited by Petros; 16-09-2017 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:56 AM   #48
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Am still fighting with knocking sound from suspension somewhere...
Recently tighted dampers as mechanic told but no luck.
After that we changed top mounts and still the knock sound is there.

All parts are changed, dont know which part could be damaged in this short time.
Will check engine mounts again,that was one of first thigs changed 2 years ago.


Car runs good, we completed 145000km last month, 20000km in a bit more than 2 years.




Few more pics









And one from friends wedding




Next week he is getting completely new exhaust, more pics and video soon

Will do some track time soon also
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:06 AM   #49
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Hi Petros,

Have your mechanic checked that the nuts that hold the damper inside the suspension strut are tightened?
I mean these:

they hold the dampers inside the strut.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:38 PM   #50
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Yes,he tighten it last week.
After that he changed top mounts but no luck.

We can start changing all parts again
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