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Old 19-05-2011, 08:09 PM   #101
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use Nyloc type nuts? or a washer behind the nut, though M24 washers tend to be a little thicker than 1mm.
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Old 19-05-2011, 08:31 PM   #102
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It needs to go the other way, i.e. the nut needs to go to on the scaft another 1mm, could always machine the nut down? Too dark to have a look in the garage. Maybe one for the weekend
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Old 21-05-2011, 06:24 AM   #103
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Exclamation

Some pictures for people.

Machined hubs and 4mm spacers


Dummy bearing set into strut


Hub and drivehaft fitted


Amount of driveshaft end thread, very close to hub nut


When hub locking ring is fitted the retainer pin hole is obscured


Machined 2mm from the back of the nut, which allowed the locking ring and retainer pin to fit.


What are peoples thought about maching the back of hub nuts to reduce overall thickness, or the other option is to use 2mm spacer?

Last edited by jools; 21-05-2011 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 21-05-2011, 03:34 PM   #104
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They are fairly heafty nuts anyway, 2mm wouldnt make any difference.
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Old 21-05-2011, 05:41 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyb3r View Post
They are fairly heafty nuts anyway, 2mm wouldnt make any difference.
Aye, that's what I am thinking, plus there is an r clip and retainer holding the lot on.
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Old 21-05-2011, 05:56 PM   #106
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Jools, good stuff chap.

One thing I'd suggest is fitting up a rotor and a caliper and seeing if it lays central in it. Your spacer is thicker than the ones I use you see.

And can't see clearly..but have you machined the hubs/flanges back to the same face/plane as the original bearing used to butt against? as im sure your aware its quite important to get correct offset of things. pm me if you need any pics/info.

p.s. I still haven't found those spacers! maybe a magpie stole them?!
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Old 21-05-2011, 07:06 PM   #107
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The hubs have been machined to the origional bearing plane, and the spacer thickness leading to disk offset has been cross referenced with an standard MA hub. I am begining to wonder if different BE hubs have different thicknesses resulting to people making suggestions of 2.5mm - 4mm for spacers.

Currently do not have a spare disc, will have to find one, but do have a calliper.

Shame about the spacers, you will possibly find them down the sofa!
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Old 22-05-2011, 04:24 PM   #108
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Any pics of your set up Stevie, or is it all top secret?
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Old 23-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #109
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Nearly finished the front end jig. Just need to attach some casters so I can move it around.




One thing I forgot to allow for was a good amount of droop for the suspension, but the jig can be raised on the stand using a couple of spacers.

Once it is home I start fitting various bits and then work out driveshaft lengths. Just need to clear a space in the shed for it.
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Old 23-05-2011, 06:40 PM   #110
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lol that looks random as fuck
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Old 23-05-2011, 08:38 PM   #111
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That is very random. What are you doing about mounts Jools?
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Old 23-05-2011, 08:45 PM   #112
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What on earth did your wife say when you had the front end of a 106 delivered to the house?!
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Old 23-05-2011, 09:52 PM   #113
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looks better than a shit load of gnomes in the garden I guess...
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Old 23-05-2011, 09:59 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleksandr View Post
What on earth did your wife say when you had the front end of a 106 delivered to the house?!
Nowt, it is stored at work at the moment, but it will be coming home shortly, as soon as I work out where to to put the spare rear end panels I have in the shed, (they did not fit in the loft). Strictly speaking I am on a two car rule, but nothing has been said about spare parts, and this not being a complete car is a spare part! Don't really want the thing in the garden

Mounts are in the post hopefully, I was going to fabricate my own, but I was offered a pair at a price too good to refuse.
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Old 23-05-2011, 10:09 PM   #115
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Lewis-

Some fairly drastic changes to the asthetics going on.. very tempted to show you a photo.

But i'll wait until its completed
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Old 23-05-2011, 10:16 PM   #116
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Quote:
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Nowt, it is stored at work at the moment, but it will be coming home shortly, as soon as I work out where to to put the spare rear end panels I have in the shed, (they did not fit in the loft). Strictly speaking I am on a two car rule, but nothing has been said about spare parts, and this not being a complete car is a spare part! Don't really want the thing in the garden

Mounts are in the post hopefully, I was going to fabricate my own, but I was offered a pair at a price too good to refuse.
Sir, I salute you!
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Old 24-05-2011, 02:48 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxosteve View Post
Lewis-

Some fairly drastic changes to the asthetics going on.. very tempted to show you a photo.

But i'll wait until its completed
Come on Steve - no point doing any of this if you can't share the excitment with others. PM me if you don't want to post it in public!


Jools - Fuck me you are keen, but that front end is a good idea! IS it heavy?
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Old 24-05-2011, 03:11 PM   #118
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Do not know how heavy it is, light enough to roll onto it's back and side.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:38 PM   #119
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Got the cut down front end home at the weekend and fitted some dolly wheels to aid moving it around. It only just fitted in the shed! Took it out last night and proceeded to fit the engine and gearbox into it using an upper gearbox mount supplied by Titch, and an old fabricated rhs mount. Although the box is much bigger than the ma one it fitted ok with the mounts lining up.

Fitted struts wishbones and a dummy bearing into the lhs, just to check that the 306 shaft I have fitted, slotted in perfictly, fitted the hub and nipped the hole lot up.

Also stripped a spare 206 shaft I have to find out how it is put together before I start on my new peugeot 306 one which will be used as the basis for a modified one. As I have a few shafts lying around I will possibly make up a mock up shaft then sent it off to be copied.

I will post some pictures when I get a chance

Last edited by jools; 02-07-2011 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:17 PM   #120
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here are some photos for you all.


had to move a fair bit of stuff to get this into the shed, working on it is a bit of a squeeze!


The lhs drive shaft fits ok with a standard 306 shaft.


Although not clear on the photo the inner joint look like it will clear the front wishbone support


The rhs shaft is the problem one. The shaft needs to be lot shorter, so to work out how much shorter I cut a shaft I was given and took out 110mm from the middle. This was too much, so now with a threadded bar and washers in the middle to support the shaftI m working out how long the shaft needs to be. Once that is worked out I will have a couple of outer sections cut down to size, (one will be a spare should I need it)
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:19 PM   #121
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Bit of more progress, going slow at the moment as been a bit pre-occupied lately. I have now worked out the length the driveshaft needs to be shortened by, well I say worked out, I have been messing about lengthening and shortening the cut and spaced out driveshaft for days trying to work out the right length, and have settled for a shaft that will push in a further 5mm with the shaft is needed to be at it's longest length. The driveshaft outer shaft will therefore be reduced from 417mm (a 306 td shaft) to 339mm. A local engineering company is going to do the work, as I had a spare shaft they are going to shorten two shafts, almost for the same price as doing one so I will have a spare.

I have bought a couple of M12 rose joints and a section of pre threaded tube to complete the rear engine mount. Only cost 25.00 for the bits, although forgot to order half nuts to lock off the rose joints. As one joint if right handed and the other is left I can adjust the position of the bottom of the engine a small ammount to make sure there are no clearence issues.

Need to make a couple of spacers to the gap between the 16mm width of the rose joint and the rear engine mount on the shell. Hopefully the mount on the shell will withstand being pushed about as I have already welded it.





Just got a handfull of jobs left to do really.
1. rebuild the drivers side driveshafts and test it fits.
2. turn down some hub nuts
3. Make some spacers for the lower gearbox mount
4. Sort out some BE Linkages for the satchshift
5. Convert the hubs to studs
6. Clean up a coulple
7. Fit the thing to the car (autunm 2011)

Last edited by jools; 02-07-2011 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #122
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nice man.....

what does the other end of the torque bar bolt to? the original mount point for that of the old fork?
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #123
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Quote:
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nice man.....

what does the other end of the torque bar bolt to? the original mount point for that of the old fork?
Yep, the original mounting point, which is pretty much inline, well within the missalinement of the rod ends. Handy really the BE gearbox has two bolts in the right place to attach the bracket..
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Old 18-07-2011, 05:31 PM   #124
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Picked up my shortened driveshafts today, got two so I have a spare. It would appear that the shaft is made from some very tough material. Just need to paint the shaft efore putting it all back together for a final check, then turn back to the clutch cable.
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Old 18-07-2011, 05:46 PM   #125
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Jools, you see on your mock up engine bay. when trialing the shaft for length, did you compress the strut? I cant see wether on not you have springs fitted.

My shaft was 330mm end to end. When 340mm was tried it was bottoming out inside the cv for me and another on his 106 also.
See how you get on. Its all trial and error after all. One thing to bear ing mind is the CV boot on the middle of the 2 piece shaft is pretty damn close to the chasis leg. Which ment tilting my engine very slightly.
But this through another spanner into the works as my Plenum chamber was now very close to the brake bar along with SC being very close to my slam panel.
I have slightly modified my chasis leg to accomodate this.

HTH
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Old 18-07-2011, 06:11 PM   #126
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The struts are put in without springs enabling me to move the strut from full droop to full compression, doing this and turning the hub in it's full movements as well I worked out there is about at least 6-7mm extra compression on the inner joint when pushed in fully. If I were to use a 330mm length shaft on my setup I reckon the shaft would only just be located in the inner joint, I can only assume that there maybe some variation with the cv ends on shafts, and perhaps the inner joint too? affecting the total length of the shaft? I am using non abs 306 shafts for both sides.

I have a rose jointed link at the rear so I can tilt the engine to clear the suspension mount, I would rather tilt the engine than make alterations to the chassis, although it is going to be close
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Old 19-07-2011, 02:34 PM   #127
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Ok, i'm sure it will work out. Atleast you have gone for the cheaper route of shortening some shafts.
I've paid out for Gripped/Dave Mac to produce the billet S155 shafts 'rated to 1000hp' which cost a fair penny to be made.
So I'd hope they'll be fine.. otherwise I'm left with a couple of exspensive paper weights LOL
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Old 19-07-2011, 08:54 PM   #128
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I am sure your will be fine, like I say, there must be a difference some where, just thres away a couple of different cv outers recently would have been interesting to measure as they looked different
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Old 18-08-2011, 03:38 PM   #129
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Has anyone got pictures of the top gearbox mount? Im looking at going BE on my saxo and was looking at making the mounts at work.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:49 AM   #130
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i have pics but no dimensions...
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Old 28-09-2011, 11:04 PM   #131
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I also need dimensions for this tip gearbox mount
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:56 PM   #132
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Got a small issue guys,
With the linkages, I have sorted the two obvious ones out but the 3rd one (one that stops it falling off the ball) is causing me problems.
I don't seem to have anywhere to attach it to on my box...
Any ideas?
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:48 PM   #133
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i modified the MA one to bolt on to the lower mount bud
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:10 PM   #134
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The cup car lower mount has the static selector ball mounted on it Danny.

Or like Martin says you could modify the stock one off an MA to work.

The Satchshift doesnt need one which is handy.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:33 AM   #135
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i think im going to have to buy a ball end off ebay and attach it to either the mount or box somewhere..
if anyone has pics of theirs it would be appreciated
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Old 20-10-2011, 12:13 AM   #136
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Quote:
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i think im going to have to buy a ball end off ebay and attach it to either the mount or box somewhere..
if anyone has pics of theirs it would be appreciated
i tell you what danny your EVERYWHERE lol

on another note been a lad just starting this conversion.this thread is amazing.very very helpfull.oh and i have to say the front end of the 106 is awsom.make a BBQ out of it once ur finished lol

very heplfull thread
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Old 24-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #137
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at the end, what drives shaft you use? what is the Totola Legh?
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Old 24-10-2011, 07:41 PM   #138
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RHS - Two piece with the outer shaft shortened to 339mm, do not know the total length as not measured it. LHS - 306 1.8 16v shaft
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Old 24-10-2011, 08:48 PM   #139
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i use
420mm for LHS shaft
320mm for RHS shaft
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Old 24-10-2011, 09:15 PM   #140
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thats a fair bit of difference there lads.
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Old 24-10-2011, 09:38 PM   #141
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http://www.britishrally.co.uk/forum/...th+106#p842319

if you can;t see that, its 422 for n/s, 635 for the one piece 106 cupcar shaft. (635/836 overall)
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Old 25-10-2011, 06:42 AM   #142
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thats a fair bit of difference there lads.
If you read up the post a bit Saxosteve has 330mm for his passenger shaft so a variance of 19mm between all three shafts made. As I mentioned on a previous post maybe there is something else that is causing the variation. Maybe the inner or outer joints are different? Mine are genuine Peugeot 306 shafts, the others could be from any other Citroen/Peugeot spanning some 20+ years. Genuine v Pattern? or ABS v Non ABS? or is there something else?

Without seeing all three shafts finished built up and measuring them it would be difficult to say one is right/wrong over another. You never know we could all be right? The proof will be whos fits works and lasts, if they ever get on the road.
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Old 25-10-2011, 09:11 AM   #143
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There shouldn't be any varience in CV joint dimensions. really.

I'm please to hear that mine is the middle figure of the bunch.

330mm works, and has also been used by Matt Newton on his car successfully.

Titch, I'm sure I told you the original dimension? maybe you are mistaken on the figure your quoting?


On a side note, My shafts are made by DaveMac/Gripper UK from S155 solid steel, the overall diameter is now much less than the original hollow BE shafts so gives a considerable amount more clearance to the chassis legs which were quite close before.
And also warrentied not to break for up to 1000hp so should last.
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Old 25-10-2011, 10:56 AM   #144
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Could easily be shell variances and engine position variances on the mountings, 20mm isn't a lot at all really.

The depth of the inner cup varies, as does the outer CV.

just a thought, how much clearance have you got from the end of the box to the outer edge of the inner arch? i.e the wheel on full right lock...

thoughts of 6 speed conversion....

Last edited by welshpug; 25-10-2011 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 25-10-2011, 12:17 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshpug View Post
Could easily be shell variances and engine position variances on the mountings, 20mm isn't a lot at all really.

The depth of the inner cup varies, as does the outer CV.

just a thought, how much clearance have you got from the end of the box to the outer edge of the inner arch? i.e the wheel on full right lock...

thoughts of 6 speed conversion....
I was sure the inner cup and outer cup vary, as a 206 one I had (now skipped) was a different depth to the 306 one I have.

6 speed conversion........Too much effort as I think you need to notch the bottom of the chassis rail for the end of the box to clear, due to the extra gear, anyone?

On a totally different note, now have the conversion bits from Colin to turn the Satchshift from MA to BE, as with all of Colins work they are outstanding quality and looking forward to finially fitting it all.

Last edited by jools; 25-10-2011 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 25-10-2011, 12:53 PM   #146
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Cool!!!
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Old 25-10-2011, 03:49 PM   #147
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regarding the 6 speed conversion, depends whether the BE box sits above the line of the chassis leg or not, if it doesn't and there's enough space to fit an extra 55mm in there...
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Old 25-10-2011, 04:12 PM   #148
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You have to make a 'U' shaped notch in the chasis leg so it clears the casing, not the end cap.. the main caseing itself touches.

Not a big job and steering lock isn't effected as box doesnt extend beyond normal face of chassis leg.


Driveshaft/CV wise.. I disagree that a +20mm varience in shell dimensions from the factory is allowable. If that was the case you would have brand new vehicles having problems straight out of the box when they drive off the prooduction line. Yes there will be a tolerance, but not as great as that, im sure.

Jools, what If I sent you over my my o/s shaft bare to try in your setuup to see how you get on. These dimensions we are quoting may be taken from different refence points perhaps.
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Old 25-10-2011, 04:19 PM   #149
jools
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Steve, thats a kind offer, although at the moment I am concentrating on the fuel system steel box and as a result the shed is packed with all the car bits I was not allowed to put into the roof! - result no access to the jig front end, so I will have to pass at the moment. I will be reverting back to the BE box conversion once the steel box is finished which will hopefully be over the christmas holidays when I can get the box into the car properly.
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Old 25-10-2011, 04:21 PM   #150
dannygti
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i remember a guy from "supertracker" coming into my work and saying there is a 20mm difference in a bmw M3 front to rear.. not sure if it was true but pretty mad.


modifying the chasis leg would be simple. might be a good idea to try a 6 speed box come to think of it
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