home news shop history forum membership galleries regions calendar contact
   

Go Back   106 Rallye Register Forum > RALLYE REGISTER REGIONAL GROUPS > London & South East > South East Members Cars

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 14-11-2013, 10:01 PM   #1
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Matt's 106 resto

I thought I’d start a blog as I’m doing a fair amount of work on my little Pug. Mainly doing this as I want a record of what I have done to it, but hopefully it will interest some people 

I bought this car in 2003 from my sister who had it from 2000. It’s a 1992 XT with a 1.4 carb engine (TU3-2) in Steel Grey (Paint code: M0TA), and aside from a dodgy accident repair, was completely standard when I got hold of it:



It was kept standard for a while and I just tidied things up and added minor touches like colour coding the mirrors. Someone pushed the car into the road one night against the handbrake so I got a Cat 1 alarm off eBay and fitted that. In this state the car saw me through high school and the start of uni, and then the bug (this forum) caught me… I had to get a pugsport!



I added a few other pointless odds and sods like clear indicators and Lockwood sill protectors, and then got some Peugeot Sport comp MOs from a rally bloke in Wales and fitted those with studs and nuts, and some hubcentric spacers for the rear. I also painted the spare wheel white to match

By now the dodgy repair was getting to me – it’s been hit on the O/S front corner and then completely resprayed in a slightly off shade apart from the roof and boot. I changed the front wings and bonnet as they were badly sprayed and I managed to pick up some good condition ones in the correct factory paint. I had also had the bumpers resprayed as the paint was flaking.

I noticed the rear camber was looking a bit stanced so I got a GTI rear beam and front brakes and whacked those on, so stopping power is now pretty good. Unfortunately the new beam wasn’t a lot better and it eventually went away to IMAxles and got rebuilt… the moral, be careful when trading on 106 owners

I got hold of S1 rallye seats, door cards, carpet and seat belts and fitted those. Also got some replica rallye decals from Cusimar9 and put the front and rear stripes on. Also got a full set of S1 arches and bumpers to make a proper replica, but they aren’t fitted to this day!

Fast forward to mid-2011 and I had finished uni, got a proper job and bought a new car – a Honda FN2. At this point I gave the 106 to my other half. It sat on her parents drive for about 6 months before I decided I missed it, and took it back The price of modding an FN2 also played a significant part! This is the point where I have pictures from, and things start to get interesting:



First off, rear brake rebuild, powerflex roll restrictor and a nice new VIN plate from the dealer as the original has always been missing in my family’s ownership:







Next up, I was kindly given a load of suspension from another member in Chelmsford which included spax dampers and 35ish mm lowering springs. I picked up a black XSi headlining as well with sunvisors, grab handles etc:





A driveshaft was knocking so I figured I may as well go the whole hog with the suspension. It was stripped down, the springs coated in red plastic powder and the struts and spring caps black powder coated. I had new bearings pressed in, cleaned up the hubs, cleaned the shock dust covers, fitted new track rod ends, top mounts and pinch bolts. I also upgraded from my original wishbone mounted ARB to an S1 style, so got second hand wishbones, a GTi ARB, new droplinks, powerflex wishbone and ARB bushes, new rear wishbone bushes and a new driveshaft, seal and gearbox oil! Upon pulling up the carpet the sealing sheet for the rear wishbone mounts was still intact, so it’s quite nice to know it was all original, even though 150K miles meant it was long past it’s best :P Old Vs new:





Got this lot fitted and now it had the handling to match the brakes. Nice and ready for a bigger engine Old height Vs new:





Annoyingly this still didn’t cure the driveshaft knocking as it was the O/S which was bad. To make matters worse, the new N/S shaft (brand new from Pug) has a split in the gaiter, so after some negotiation they sold me a cut-price rebuild kit. I got a new O/S shaft from 106 parts so ended up with 2 brank spanking new shafts in the end… cost a pretty penny though!

Fitted some locking wheel nuts, and got a new set of half decent speakers as the rubber on the factory fits fell apart when I took the door bins off!



I also got hold of a couple of base model doors that were painted inside for rallye style door cards. I had the passenger side fitted when I went to reading festival when some little scrote tried to break in and jammed a screwdriver in the door skin! As such the door was changed back to the original. Due to the way the hinges are welded on in the factory they have no adjustment, so for a perfect fit you really need the originals… the replacement one was OK but not quite as perfect so it worked out for the best really and I will keep the originals on it. This picture midway through is probably one of the few I have that actually shows the interior:



The car was just enjoyed for about a year following this. I was determined to finish it though, but came to a conundrum… to fit the rallye kit I would need to respray it as the existing paint job was done by masking the bump strips, so there would be an edge. I saw no point in forking out for a paint job unless the car was straight, which meant fixing that damned accident damage on the front end! It would mean removing the engine so an ideal time for a swap to a proper motor!

It was crunch time, and was a very hard decision to make – scrap the car, cut my losses and buy an original S1 rallye, or grit my teeth and take the expense of sorting the old girl out once and for all! The sentimental value won, there was no way I could get rid… this car has been with me through thick and thin, and I had been wanting to learn bodywork skills, so i went on a 10 week welding course (paid for by work ), tucked her up in the garage of my new house, and set to work stripping her down:

__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:05 PM   #2
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Initial inspection of the problem area wasn’t too bad, but then I started picking away at the filler, rust bubbles and paint. Before long there was a pile of crap on the floor and I could see what I was working with... not pleasant, and I’m sure there are a couple of people on here that can relate to pictures like this :P









So the plan was to chop off the bad bit of chassis leg, inner wing and crossmember. I got a second hand S1 rallye front corner from another guy on this forum, a brand new crossmember from 106 parts, a new inner wing stiffener from a Pug dealer selling parts off cheap on eBay, and a new inner wing from eBay that someone had bought and not got around to using. However, even more trouble was to show… I removed the wiper motor cover and it was clear I needed some expertise:



Oh shit Looks like the whole corner was pushed in, and probably goes some way to explaining why it was repaired badly… it needed to be done properly, which would cost! Bloody cheap-ass dodgy repair shops I could handle fitting the front of a chassis leg, but with this damage I couldn’t be sure it was in the right place! Oh well, I’d come this far… I scoured around until I found a place I was happy with, and then booked her in for a session on the jig! The engine was whipped out, and the interior behind the bulkhead was stripped out to allow access to the back of the crumpled bit of scuttle:





Up on the jig – when it’s up like this you can really see how bad the alignment was, when it didn’t look too bad all panelled up:





Next time I went in to visit I was in for a bit of a shock! The guy doing the work said he had to remove all this to be able to pull the turret and the leg separately as they were too strong to pull as one! It’s a real shame as the shell is very solid aside from the accident damage, most of the stuff that came off was only removed due to being bent, the rot hadn’t really set in! Anyway – here’s what greeted me :O





While the car was in the bodyshop I had a nice pallet turn up:



New leg mocked up into position and panels trial fitted:







Leg filly welded into place, top plate added and welds ground down. I wasn’t happy with some of the details around the edges but I could sort that in my own time, and it was in the right place which is the important thing! Final panel fit when I went to have the final check before getting her picked up:

__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:07 PM   #3
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
All tucked up in the garage again! I did a trial fit with lights and bumper to check for panel gaps and managed to get them all to the factory tolerances! I picked up a proper 106 workshop manual for structural repairs that would have been used in dealerships, and it has all the body tolerances in it, so I’m over the moon to be able to get it within all of these





Had a little trial fit with the rest of the structural panels and all looks good



Salvaged the flitch panel from the second hand corner:



Got given an air compressor which should be good for light spraying when it comes to it:



Now onto the welding work – used the old panel to fill in this cutout that was made by the previous owner of the red car:





Had to cut a hole in the chassis rail to be able to fill the holes in the top plate where the engine mount cradle goes. I wasn’t happy with this bit of welding anyway so it was a good excuse to cut it out and redo it. It also gave me the opportunity to have a good look at the quality of welding inside the leg and slap a load of etchweld inside it. This will be followed up with cavity wax once the bodywork is done:











__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #4
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
A load of fettling later and I started thinking about fitting the inner wing. Filled and dressed any holes which needed it, cleaned up all mating surfaces to bare metal, drilled the holes in the inner wing for plug welding and etchweld all over the parts that will be hidden once fitted. Positioned the inner wing and clamped in place, and used some bolts to hold the engine mount cradle in position to make sure it all sat right. Then I welded the inner wing to the chassis rail, front plate, bulkhead and suspension turret, using plug welds in all the factory locations:













Ground down all the welds on the top and painted them. Made a little repair to where the mount cradle attaches which had been butchered a bit by the bodyshop. I soaked the mount cradle in bilt hamber deox-C for a few days to get rid of as much rust as possible. Prepped all mating surfaces, trial fit, clamped and welded the cradle into place:















I’m not going to lie, the sheer amount of welds to grind down made me wince a bit… I’m tackling a few every now and again but they are still not all done lol! Next task was the flitch panel… I had been dreading this as the VIN number is stamped here on S1s so I had to tread very carefully and make sure it was well documented in order to avoid trouble in the future. I spoke to Vosa on this and they advised how to tackle the area and advised to document well, so this is partly the reason for such a comprehensive account of what I’ve been up to
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:10 PM   #5
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Anyway, the ECU tray bolts to the flitch so I decided to fit this to act as an extra reference point to keep the flitch in the right place. Since the car was originally fitted with a carb it had no stud on the suspension turret to fit the tray, so I cut the head off an M5 bolt, drilled and tapped a hole in the right place, wound the stud in from behind, welded it in and ground down the weld. Then I fitted the ECU tray, the slam panel, and made sure it all lined up, then took a chunk out of the flitch to remove the bent metal, but leaving the VIN number attached to the car. I then trimmed the replacement panel to the same size, drilled holes, painted the mating surfaces, clamped it in place, tacked, seam welded, plug welded, ground down and finally sprayed:



















Trimmed the inner wing stiffener for a perfect fit and welded it on. Again, seam welding the joint to the old panel, plug welding in all original spot weld locations, mating surfaces cleaned and painted with etchweld. Then ground down the welds and painted the lot. Trial fit of panels etc say’s I did a pretty reasonable job







Picked up a new rear bumper as the one I was planning to use was an XSI one, so painting the top part would be harder:



Next task was the N/S chassis rail. It was going a bit rusty and I had a little prang many years ago which put a little crease in the very front of it. This was nothing compared the the O/S so I was full of confidence. Unfortunately, when I pulled it all apart the rust extended to under the battery tray, so it would be a bit more involved than I thought initially (isn’t it always!!).

Anyway, found an ebay bargain job lot that had a complete S2 chassis rail in it that was hidden away at the back of the photo, so I won it and went to fleet to pick it up:





Figured that while I’m at it, since the inner wing has a few rusty holes and the new rail came with a new inner wing, I may as well replace that too. Therefore I could go mad at it to get the battery tray off in 1 piece – this was a horrible job as there are soooo many spot welds holding it together!! Anyway, I got it out, but mullered the existing leg and inner wing a bit in the process! At least the fact that it was still really solid shows the overall rust state of the car is very good! The only rotten bit was the top closing plate under the battery tray:



I made a cut in the rail at the slight kink to take the strength out of it, and hammered it into roughly the correct position. I will remove the front section of rail once I have the replacement ready to go in.
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #6
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Onto the new leg… I drilled out the spot welds to get the inner wing off in 1 piece, and stored it for later use. I also removed the rail to turret brace, the front closing plate and I’ve been butchering the battery tray to get it off without damaging the rail:













Finally, this is now up to date! If anyone stuck it out to this point, thanks for reading! I hope this has been of a bit of interest to someone! Hopefully I can keep this up to date from now on
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:15 PM   #7
mattrallye
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
mattrallye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 5,563
User Gallery Car Blog
Some excellent work there mate
__________________
Now running a 16v with 180bhp and Sadev sequential.

Partner at Trackspec - Performance parts for enthusiasts
info@trackspec.co.uk
www.trackspec.co.uk
mattrallye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 10:52 PM   #8
matty_d
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
matty_d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 604
User Gallery
Holy crap! That's a lot of work, most people would have just scrapped the thing! Sentimental value at its best (or worst).

What are the final plans for it? Also, loving the white Civic, mmmmm
matty_d is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 11:01 PM   #9
Harv
Slower Than Mike
 
Harv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louth, Lincs
Posts: 3,356
User Gallery Car Blog
Wow, major surgery there! Can't believe how stripped off that side got once it was jigged, fair play for bothering to tackle it.
Harv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-11-2013, 11:04 PM   #10
Dieseldave
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Dieseldave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sligo,Ireland
Posts: 1,592
User Gallery
Nice fab work going on there.
Dieseldave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-11-2013, 08:31 AM   #11
jools
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
jools's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 2,038
User Gallery
Top job, looks really good. Wonder how long it will be before more people attempt this on really crusty s1's and s2's, which are more likely to be scrapped at the moment?

Last edited by jools; 29-12-2013 at 09:55 AM.
jools is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #12
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Cheers for all the positive comments guys

In terms of plans, im plugging away at prepping the JP4S engine to pop in once the bodywork is done, and i'm on the hunt for an S1 rallye gearbox to mate it to. It will have the rallye arches/bumpers fitted too!

It will be used alongside my other car for the occasional run to work etc, but mainly it's going to be used for trackdays and having a bit of fun in i'm sure once it is built up i'll keep on with more changes, but at the moment my goal is to make it look like it rolled out of the factory in the spec that I want!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15-11-2013, 10:41 PM   #13
chrisjp4
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: brynsiencyn
Posts: 1,260
User Gallery
Looking good Matt! Very good welding skills you have mate!

Don't bother with a Rallye box there expensive, Get any one of the sport's box's (gti,vts,rallye) and use a xsi final drive, if you can find one, there are a few other FD's you can source. It'd work out much cheaper to buy a gti/vts box, they all have the same gear-set's just a different final drives.

Glad to see you have a blog to show us all.

Chris
chrisjp4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-11-2013, 11:30 AM   #14
LukeS1Stoke
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
LukeS1Stoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 563
User Gallery
Great work there Matt, massive job broke out so fair play for taking it on (and winning!).

Whats the rest of the shell like?
LukeS1Stoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-11-2013, 02:06 PM   #15
dan_87
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
dan_87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Stockton
Posts: 340
User Gallery
Great work
dan_87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-11-2013, 09:21 PM   #16
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Cheers guys the rest of the shell seems pretty solid, the boot floor seams are still good, even the 'jacking points' aren't horrendous - they've been crushed a little and there is some rust starting to form but compared to some ive seen they are still pretty good! S1s seem to be a lot better for rust - I'm guessing PSA decided to save some money on the sealing over the life cycle :/

Anyway, managed to get a few hours in the garage this weekend! Finished stripping the chassis rail of unwanted metal. I will keep this as is until I've cut out the existing rail and trimmed this to fit - then the hole will be filled, and parts with dodgy e-coat and areas to be welded will be stripped back and painted with etchweld - it's quite interesting to see how the e-coat has covered this, or rather hasn't covered it where there were overlapping panels:



So with that done the next task is to chop out the old rail. I'm planning to use most of the new top plate as they are very thin and the old one is getting a bit wafer-like, so to fit as much as possible I want to drill out the spot welds between the chassis rail and the bracing panel up to the suspension turret, chop out the old top plate, and slide this new one in. It will also help with positioning it all correctly, so I'm confident it's the way to go. However, I didn't want to remove any strength while the preload from the suspension is still on the body, so the strut has to come off.

Up to now the passenger side of the car has been up against a wall, so I ground down the plug welds on the driver's side and slapped on a very quick coat of etchweld to prevent flash rusting:



I put the RH suspension and wheel back on, dropped her back onto all 4 wheels, jiggled back and forth around the garage a bit to get the passenger side away from the wall and then back up on the axle stands! The joys of doing all this in a single car garage
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-11-2013, 09:47 PM   #17
shenparbitch
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER & ThunderCnut

 
shenparbitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: wisbech
Posts: 1,764
User Gallery
NIIIIIIIIIiiiiiiiice fabrication + repairwork....
shenparbitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-11-2013, 10:33 PM   #18
Cris B
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Cris B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: t'Internet
Posts: 4,026
User Gallery Car Blog
There is commitment in this thread
__________________
Cris B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28-12-2013, 10:03 PM   #19
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Riiight! Haven't worked on the car in a little while what with crimbo an it generally being cold and wet... But with the festivities over and having taken some extra days off work to crack on with this, I ventured out into the garage today!

First off I removed the LH suspension leg to remove the loading on the body, and then set about getting the chassis leg off! Spot welds were drilled out where the leg joined to the inner wing and the front closing plate, and the leg was chopped far back enough to remove all rust and damage, but leaving the part where the rear of the battery tray fits in order to make refitting easier! Next job... Remove the top plate and then shape the new leg to fit!

__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-12-2013, 01:38 PM   #20
Cris B
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Cris B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: t'Internet
Posts: 4,026
User Gallery Car Blog
You've taken on a beast of a job here. From the pics the shell looks like it's in bad shape and you're doing a great job in restoring it. It will be worth it in the end!
__________________
Cris B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-12-2013, 10:26 PM   #21
gr8grumble
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: trowbridge wiltshire
Posts: 366
User Gallery
Previous repairs look great mate! Looking forward to seeing how well you repair that chassis leg. Keep it up
gr8grumble is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #22
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Thanks guys Cris, your blogs were a massive inspiration for me on this and I got a load of tips from them, so some positive comments from you are taken very well indeed

Been in the garage for a few hours yesterday and today, cutting the leg to slightly oversize and fettling it down to fit properly! I decided against cutting the whole top plate put as I cut it back just outside the battery tray zone and the metal had a decent thickness, and decided to just treat the surface rust instead of pulling yet more of it apart when it wasn't necessary! Before cutting the new leg I took loads of measurements of the reference holes and even made a (very) simple jig to make sure it goes in correctly! After 2 days it's finally there, although it's still about half a mm too long so will skim it down a bit more next time! Clamped up all be parts, fitted the lights and checked the panel gaps and all seems well





Next task... Final fettling, and then prep all the surfaces and treat the surface rust!

Now, though, time for some beer... Happy new year all
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2014, 11:29 PM   #23
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Well today I made quite a nice achievement... Chassis rail is now in I shaped the new part and smothered the existing rail in deox gel to treat the rust, and left overnight! Once done, I removed the e-coat where I would be welding and primed all surfaces with etchweld! Since the rail is for an s2 it ha an extra stiffener panel inside... I saw no point in removing this so I shaped it to fit and drilled some holes in the existing leg to allow me to plug weld this part for a bit of extra stiffness! The whole rail was then seam welded onto the existing leg, plug welds used where necessary, and mostly ground down! Just have a bit more grinding to do in the fiddly places also, my new baker BM left and right mounts turned up today so I can trial fit the engine







__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-01-2014, 11:13 AM   #24
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
I've made a bit of progress with this over the last couple of weeks. First off, ground down the welds on the N/S chassis rail and covered the area in some etchweld. I then prepped and plug welded the front closing panel onto the rail, using the new crossmember as an aid to fitting. All welds ground down and covered in etchweld:



While doing this I had the battery tray pickling in a bath of deox-c for about a week to remove the rust, occasionally taking it out and scouring it as per the instructions. Eventually, I took it out, ground off as much as I could of what remained of the paint/ecoat etc, used emery cloth to get in all the nooks and crannies, blasted all the seams with the airline I now have working, wiped it down and coated it with about 4 coats of etchweld, paying particular attention to all the seams! It's got a lovely hard coat now, and im confident that with some decent seam sealing and epoxy paint over it, it shouldnt get rusty again in the near future:



Next task is to tack this in place and trial fit the engine/gearbox before fully welding in, but this needs a set of cambelt covers so I can change the cambelt and fit the engine mounts properly, so it's now kind of on hold until I pick up a set!

So, I set about another task - the RH rail front closing plate was a different style to the one originally fitted to the car. I have no idea why it was changed as there dont seem to be any different functions they perform other than the fact my original one has a hole like the LH one, and it stretched further back. I had never been happy with the welding job done by the bodyshop as they had some panel separation and a blob of weld underneath it pushing it away from the rail, so i decided to change it over. This is the part that will be going in:



The plate fitted by the bodyshop was chopped out, and covered in etchweld. I need to tidy up the welding here too, and fill in a hole, then the original part will be shaped and welded in:



I also seem to have taken on another project :/ My sister owns a saxo, W-plate for reference so now about 13-14 years old. The car is in very good overall condition and has been maintained well, but the boot floor rot decided to hit it! This car had full sound deadening and carpet in the boot, and the stonechip paint in the wheel arches didnt look too bad... i had pointed out a bit of rust in the arch starting to show, but it was only fully discovered when the floor caved in! A warning to everyone that thinks their car is safe... go and have a good prod!!!

Since scrapping a car seems to be a sin in my family, and now that i'm handy with a welder, we decided to save the little saxo, so for the last couple of weeks my dad has been busy designing and knocking up a simple jig to get it back into line. The longitudinal strengthener panels between the 2 rear crossmembers had crumbled into nothing, so the floor had folded up, but the front crossmember is fine. Essentially all that needs to be done is to push the rear crossmember down to the correct position and replace the rotten metal. The jig was made by 2 thick U-channels bolted to the upper stiffener panels in the sides of the boot, a piece of threaded bar between them to pull the sides in to the correct place, and 2 bolts on the bottom to push downwards on 2 blocks of wood that spread the load onto the crossmember. By turning the bolts, the whole assembly can be adjusted to push everything into the right place:



Yesterday's task was to strip the whole rear end of the car down includng bumper, fuel tank etc, fit the jig, and get the car into my parents' garage for the work, leaving the rear beam on to help keep it all in shape. The boot floor has been aligned for the time being using the seam sealer marks on the body, and is now in pretty much the correct position, but this will be checked using the body alignment data I have in my workshop book before welding.

All the strip down was done outside as the fuel tank needed emptying first, all loose rust and paint was removed, arches washed and floor jigged. Then the car was dropped back onto its wheels and rolled into the garage and propped up on axle stands. This is how bad the floor was:





Again, check your seams people.... this car is otherwise in VERY good condition, and my sis was offered £100 in scrap value!!!

Thankfully on this project I will not be doing most of the work, I was just drafted in to help strip, and will do the welding and painting. My dad is now going to be busy in the evenings chopping this lot out, making up cardboard templates, and cutting out zintec sheet to patch it all up!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-01-2014, 08:37 PM   #25
Cool beans
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
 
Cool beans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Guildford
Posts: 382
User Gallery
Good work mate, coming along nicely now, nice of you to look at your sisters saxo before the you have finished yours, your right about checking the seams, mine looked fine in the arches, but my welder started on the rear the other day and after some poking about he found rust in between the panels in the same places as you did, not quite to the same extremes but it was only the spot welds holding them together hiding the problem.
__________________
Cool beans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-01-2014, 10:45 PM   #26
chrisjp4
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: brynsiencyn
Posts: 1,260
User Gallery
Bloody hell that's a LOT of rust for a W reg saxo!! Surely the worst I've seen! My daily vts is a W reg, I'll have a look tomorrow now, never really had a look at the back, although i did have my mate change the beam so I'm sure he would of spotted it. I've had 7 saxo's & 3 106's, non of which have ever been that bad, 3 of which have been w reg's.lol

It must of been stood in the damp or something to be that bad i recon, or Citroen missed a lot of paint/underseal & it's rusted to death, or just seen a lot of bad weather in it's life! How many owner's has it had & how many miles mate?
chrisjp4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-01-2014, 08:50 AM   #27
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Haha, yeh it doesnt look pretty! In fairness I got pretty vicious with a screwdriver poking away at it, but the area in front of the rear crossmember I basically put my hand behind the stonechip and peeled it away with all the rust! I think shes had it about 8 years or so, maybe 1 or 2 previous owners? It's spent most of its life trundling up and down the A12, but I dont think the arches were ever properly scrubbed out and it also had mudflaps which may or may not have made it worse? As other people have said before... the area is 4 layers thick in places so if the exposed edges are not sealed really well it will always rust!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-01-2014, 09:12 AM   #28
Harv
Slower Than Mike
 
Harv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louth, Lincs
Posts: 3,356
User Gallery Car Blog
Wow, pretty impressive rust there. What's the bolted-on plate further up the arch for? Surely it'll have rusted behind there too?
Harv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-01-2014, 09:29 AM   #29
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Spreader plates for the jig The holes were drilled on sunday for those plates and it was nice and solid... but it does mean an additional couple of holes to weld up later :/
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-01-2014, 10:23 AM   #30
Harv
Slower Than Mike
 
Harv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louth, Lincs
Posts: 3,356
User Gallery Car Blog
Ah, duh!
Harv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21-01-2014, 07:48 PM   #31
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Boom:



Crossmember in and welds mostly ground down! It's starting to look a bit more like a car now
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 02:01 PM   #32
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
So a week ago I fitted an engine to this car for the first time in a year



I gave up on trying to get a decent set of cambelt covers, and stumped up for a new inner from 106 parts, and Matty D sorted me out for the other 2, which meant I could change the cambelt and fit the new inner cover, allowing me to fit the engine mount bracketry properly. Whacked on my old gearbox and offered up the engine to see how it fitted against the battery tray. Thankfully it's all good, and looking back through old photos, the position of the weld nuts on the battery tray relative to the slotted holes on the gearbox mount are the same as they were when i took the old engine out So while it was all bolted up and the tray clamped in position, i tacked it in place where i could. Powertrain was then removed and i fully welded in the battery tray:





Last major welding job on this now is to replace the inner wing, so out with the old:





I had contemplated leaving the rear of it in place so as to not disturb the seam sealer which seems to have done a very good job, and at times it felt like a real shame to be ripping it all off, but metal this thin cant easily be butt welded and ground down very neatly without risking a very thin section due to overgrinding, so the whole lot came out! on the whole pretty pleased with how its held up, a bit of surface rust in a couple of seams, but not much worse than was on the new panels to be honest! All the rust in here will be treated and covered with plenty of coating! Offered up the new inner wing and it fits like a charm! The holes along the bottom edge even line up with the mark on the chassis rail from where they were originally drilled out from while in situ, i marked where the additional holes need to be drilled, then did the drilling, ground off the ecoat from welding areas and covered with more etchweld:



Onto the other project... I spent Sunday up at my parents' place for a bit of work on the saxo! All the rubbish had already been cut out of the driver's side and my dad had made the panels to go in. There is no worrying about looking factory on this one, so the bottom edges are close enough and most of the sheet metal is about twice as thick as what was removed. So, main floor stiffener and the upper stiffener were fitted, welds ground down as necessary, painted etc. The largest panel which was the original wheelhouse was too big to be made in 1 piece from the sheet of zintec we had, so the largest bit started to go in, and then i ran out of gas and top gear came on... so it got shelved at this point:











__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 06:09 PM   #33
axakias
REGISTERED FORUM USER - NON MEMBER
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ellas Athens
Posts: 5
User Gallery
EPIC......I'm speechless!!!!!!
axakias is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 06:43 PM   #34
mattrallye
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
mattrallye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 5,563
User Gallery Car Blog
Great work Matt.
__________________
Now running a 16v with 180bhp and Sadev sequential.

Partner at Trackspec - Performance parts for enthusiasts
info@trackspec.co.uk
www.trackspec.co.uk
mattrallye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 06:47 PM   #35
Cris B
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Cris B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: t'Internet
Posts: 4,026
User Gallery Car Blog
Good work chap. Looks like a familiar job...
__________________
Cris B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 06:50 PM   #36
matty_d
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
matty_d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 604
User Gallery
Never asked if those covers arrived, glad they did.

Awesome work, I could do with some of your handiwork! My Rallyes rear arches are getting poorly
matty_d is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2014, 08:07 PM   #37
LukeS1Stoke
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
LukeS1Stoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 563
User Gallery
Very Nice work Matt! getting there now!
LukeS1Stoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2014, 08:14 AM   #38
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Cheers guys Feels like i can see the light at the end of the tunnel now and i can't wait to get some paint on it

And Matt, sorry i forgot to let you know, i think they arrived the day after you sent them Ta!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]

Last edited by MattXT92; 07-08-2015 at 09:56 AM.
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 11:42 AM   #39
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
I’ve not updated this in a while, but not because I haven’t been cracking on with it…

I got the LH inner wing in:



RH front closing plate is also in:







I’ve finished all the welding/grinding/etchwelding in the engine bay, and it’s basically all done now Finally looking like a car:



Just got a couple of little jobs to do now… need to change the tow hook for a rallye/xsi one as it sits at a different height and sticks further out, got to grind down a few welds under the arches, and need to paint strip the VIN number to clear out the dimples and make it as legible as possible!

Also got hold of a nice ~55k S1 rallye box. I’ve checked it over as much as possible without ripping it apart and it seems in very good condition! I swapped over all the sensors and roll restrictor etc so it’s ready to mate up to the engine now:



As an aside, does anyone know how many teeth the speed sensor gear should have? I got the sensor from a local scrappy and it had no gear in it, and my original sensor had an orange gear with 18 teeth and this box came with a grey one with 17 teeth. I’ve put the grey one in for now but a definitive answer would be cool!

I’ve also finally finished the cambelt swap on the new engine and the covers are on… still need to finish grinding down the mount arm and sort the manifold fitting.

Onto the saxo… it’s done! Welding-wise at least! I’ll let the pics do the talking:













Not a factory finish, but it’s bloody strong and will look fine when it’s ground down a little and pasted with chassis paint and stonechip! It’s now all masked up ready for me to find time to pop round with the compressor and lay some paint down!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #40
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Bit more progress I ground off all the rubbish paint, scraped off the seam sealer around the bulkhead and treated the little bit of rust under it, primed up the bare metal areas, masked up and cleared out the garage ready for paint:



Alas I got about 2/3 of the way through the coat of chassis paint before I ran out ordered a load more and a pack of black for doing stuff like the brake servo... This lot arrived today so I've got the day off tomorrow to crack on before the first coat fully cures:





Such a relief to get some decent paint on it so it won't rust anymore

As for the saxo... It's done! Used the same chassis paint followed by a load of seam sealing, stonechip, primer, base and lacquer! My sis is chuffed... It quieter than it has ever been, flew through its mot last week, and is now in daily use! One ticked off, and now it's motivated me to get this bloody thing done!





__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 09:49 PM   #41
Magic1992
REGISTERED FORUM USER - NON MEMBER
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 52
User Gallery
Nice work buddy! Keeping the shell against the odds! I take it you're going for the S1 Rallye kit, I think they have a slightly different tow eye to the regular S1 iirc. Sorry if I'm telling you what you already know
Magic1992 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 10:26 PM   #42
chrisjp4
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: brynsiencyn
Posts: 1,260
User Gallery
Saxo good as new now Matt! Anytime you fancy having a poke around my vts your more than welcome with your workmanship!!

Are you respraying the whole 106 mate? A lot of work gone into the little thing now, especially seeing as it started out a pretty dull car imo.lol Will look lovely when complete, get some S1 Rallye decal's on too. The jp4 should make it move a lot quicker, especially mated to the S1 box, should put a good grin on your face! Even my vts does that with 100kg of me in the front & about 100kg of tools in the boot!lol So this should fly & be reliable with the new motor!

Chris
chrisjp4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 11:00 PM   #43
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Hehe cheers guys! Magic, yeh I have the Rallye kit already... Chopped off the original tow hook last week and have got bored of leaving the entire bay unfinished waiting on the correct one. A guy on here has said he will have one at the end of he month so I'll crack on with the seam sealing and rubbing down while I wait and do a local job when I have the new hook!

Yeh Chris it should be good fun it will be completely resprayed but the outside will be done by a good bodyshop... I don't have the patience/facilities to do a great job myself so that is the one bit of work I don't mind outsourcing! I already have some decals too from cusimar9 so they will be going on... Although the paint will stay as steel grey as I think it's a lovely colour and something a bit different to a Rallye... I don't really like the idea of looking exactly like a Rallye but not being a real one I know it only started out as a base model but this little thing has taught me pretty much everything I know, i want the finished thing to reflect that

What's your vts like Chris? Had a prod in the rear? You're a bit far from me but I'm planning on doing the welsh 3000s this year with some mates... Might be good to have a little mini meet while I'm over that way?!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 11:20 AM   #44
matt_w
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aldershite
Posts: 200
User Gallery
Really impressive work going on here, looks amazing! Must be satisfying to look back at how crusty it was when you started compared with it now
matt_w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 12:05 PM   #45
LukeS1Stoke
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
LukeS1Stoke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 563
User Gallery
Cracking job Matt, on both of the cars!
LukeS1Stoke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 09:37 PM   #46
chrisjp4
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: brynsiencyn
Posts: 1,260
User Gallery
It'll look good in Grey with Rallye decals, different too! Be good to meet up mate, the Welsh 3000s as in mountain climbing? Not my cup of tea but I'm game for bringing my vts up around the mountains!! What mountains/area you planning mate?

My vts is alright, not had a poke i don't want to unveil any until i have funds to sort it out as it's my daily. I'll have a poke around & give it some love once my race engine/car is complete-in a good few months!lol When you hoping to have it done by? Are you not going to put the c2 vts inlet to use?? I've never had a look at one properly but surely it can't be too hard to make a flange for the vts/gti throttle body? I know GMC sell a TB that bolts directly on but it's not cheap!!

Chris
chrisjp4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-06-2014, 12:13 PM   #47
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Aaaand another 2 months go past in a flash I managed to finish that paint coat, then came to seam sealing and just couldn't find the motivation to go out and do it... been massively busy with other stuff, and it's taken 4 sessions, but finally i've finished the first layer of seam sealer on the whole engine bay... done with tigerseal and was done purely for function:


Next up I need to use a beading seam sealer to get the factory look in certain areas, and then i have a sprayable 2-part seam sealer that will be used where sprayable sealer was used originally i.e. where the inner wings join the rails, and around the holes for the steering arms.

Also managed to get hold of a really nice tow hook so I will prep and fit that soon, and as a stroke of luck the guy with the tow hook had very early XSI which has a bolt-on bracket to hold the charcoal canister... there was me thinking I had yet more welding to do, instead I already have the weld-studs on the body so it's just a bolt-on job... happy days

I'm hoping this post will encourage me to keep up some momentum as I want the bay painted while the weather is still good!
__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]

Last edited by MattXT92; 18-06-2014 at 10:22 PM.
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-06-2014, 09:15 PM   #48
MattXT92
WHOOPS! MEMBERSHIP JUST EXPIRED
 
MattXT92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Posts: 448
User Gallery Car Blog
Next stage done got the beaded sealer done around the inner wings and cracked out the compressor tonight to do the sprayabke sealer... This is the stuff I used:



It's the mutts nuts... 2 part isocyanate based stuff so will set rock hard and is the closest thing on the market to factory sealer! Sprayed this in all the places I scraped sprayable sealer off in the strip down:













Just got to let this go off and I can put down the stonechip paint in the arches

Also prepped my new tow hook ready to go in:

__________________
[SIZE="2"]Matt[/SIZE]
MattXT92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-06-2014, 09:22 PM   #49
mattrallye
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
mattrallye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Worcester
Posts: 5,563
User Gallery Car Blog
Amazing work mate. It's a credit to you!
__________________
Now running a 16v with 180bhp and Sadev sequential.

Partner at Trackspec - Performance parts for enthusiasts
info@trackspec.co.uk
www.trackspec.co.uk
mattrallye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-06-2014, 10:23 PM   #50
Dieseldave
106 RALLYE REGISTER MEMBER

 
Dieseldave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sligo,Ireland
Posts: 1,592
User Gallery
Great work, that 3M stuff is brilliant, I've used it a few time.
Dieseldave is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.