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New rear axle - 106 Rallye Register Forum
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Suspension, Handling & Brakes Suspension set ups, uprated brakes

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Old 10-08-2017, 04:19 PM   #1
moult
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New rear axle

Hi guys...

Just purchased a new rear axle from IM. Going to swap it over at the weekend, I've changed axles before but haven't had to remove the rear hubs.
Is there any thing I need to look out for ? Will I require a puller !?

Thanks
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:32 PM   #2
MHR1294
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The drums should come off with a hammer. this may split the wheel bearing.

If you need to swap the stub pins that the bearing sits on, it simply hammers out. the end of it is dimpled for hammering out with a drift. don't just hit the end with a hammer or it'll mushroom.

You can cheat and do what I did, to remove the drum simply hammer the stub pin back with the drum still on after removing the nut. this stops the bearing from splitting!

Everything else is bolt on.
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Old 12-08-2017, 10:35 AM   #3
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Three legged puller for the hub yes.
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Old 12-08-2017, 10:56 AM   #4
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Hammering that stub pin through sounds a decent method.
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Old 18-08-2017, 08:51 PM   #5
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Right guys !
Removed the old beam today... goin to replace the brake lines as there slightly corroded. The brake bias value looks like it's seen better days as well but don't really wana buy a new 1 of them. Unsure if it seized cause it isn't under tension cause it's off the car but the bolt is loose to the spring. Has any1 bypassed this ?
Another question I have is are the rear brake protectors needed ? Mine are old and pretty bent ?

Any help would be great ! Thanks
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Old 29-08-2017, 10:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moult View Post
Right guys !
Removed the old beam today... goin to replace the brake lines as there slightly corroded. The brake bias value looks like it's seen better days as well but don't really wana buy a new 1 of them. Unsure if it seized cause it isn't under tension cause it's off the car but the bolt is loose to the spring. Has any1 bypassed this ?
Another question I have is are the rear brake protectors needed ? Mine are old and pretty bent ?

Any help would be great ! Thanks
Yeah I've no problem using discs with no compensator/bias valve. I also don't run backing plates and not had any issues so far.

I think the lack of compensator is only an issue if you swap the master cylinder to a 2 port one. I've heard the back and front end likes to switch places when braking hard!
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Old 30-08-2017, 08:31 AM   #7
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Those valves always look crusty as hell, all you need to do is lube up the pivot and work it till its free, very rare that the piston in them seizes up.

I would not recommend dispensing with it without altering the system to a front-rear split with a manual bias valve.

you'll be fine without the covers.


make sure your new beam has the same length stub pin and torsion & roll bar sizes, and budget in for new bearings next year.
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Old 30-08-2017, 12:12 PM   #8
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When does the stub pin length changes?
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Old 30-08-2017, 04:01 PM   #9
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drum to disc.
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Old 30-08-2017, 05:26 PM   #10
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Right,I was a bit confused as I thought you meant the pin on the axle itself and not on the trailing arm as measured mine drum to disc and they were the same and was under the impression they are all the same.
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Old 30-08-2017, 05:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeiRoN View Post
Right,I was a bit confused as I thought you meant the pin on the axle itself and not on the trailing arm as measured mine drum to disc and they were the same and was under the impression they are all the same.
Measured what drum to disc?

The pin is the one that the wheel bearing sits on. they're about an inch different in length. the disc one being longer.

The main axle tubes are all the same, yes. With the "pin" that the main axle bearings run on. they're the same length.
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Old 30-08-2017, 06:27 PM   #12
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Yes correct,I measured mine that was disc (faulty) to drum from a 1.1 106 (replacement part).
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