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Old 08-05-2017, 10:21 PM   #51
Cris B
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Turned card templates into steel:



End of the bulkhead was a bit ropey so marked it out and then cut a big bigger chasing the rust. This needed doing as you need to be able to weld this into the inner arch repairs.





Not too bad under the seam, only the end section nearest the arch needed some new metal in the lower part. Repaired with a patch panel.



I've fabbed up a section to close up the wheel arch (took hours), but before I fit it I thought I'd check out the chassis rail a bit more closely because it didn't look too clever. Also it gave more space to work in to assess things.



Worse underneath in places...



So chopped and drilled quite a bit and confirmed my suspicions. Several holes in the bottom of the rail. So all this came out. Some of which will be kept as a guide for making repair panels.



This resulted in a large hole.



There is more to come out but I need to put some new metal back in to try and keep some shape to it all before I chop out anymore.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:20 AM   #52
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Watching this with interest Cris - my S2 has gone in the same spot, although I'm going to have to get the front wishbone mount off the leg as well as it's rotted a bit further back too.
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Old 25-06-2017, 10:23 PM   #53
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Not updated here in a while as not much progress as I'd like has been made in the last three weekends as they have been write offs with DIY jobs (rebuild the boundary fence, then re-roof the kitchen, finally re-tile the shower), but have made some headway as per below:





Final bits to sort out on this arch - now chopped out ready to start rebuilding.



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Old 20-08-2017, 09:54 PM   #54
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April. That was when I started work on the drivers side inner wing. For a variety of reasons it's taken all this time to finish it. There was a lot of rot that was hidden from view, but the good news is it's all sorted now.



During this time I've had chance to think on a few other things. One was that some bits just weren't worth repairing, specifically the radiator support bar. So I chopped it out:



All of the three under bumper mounting bolts were seized in or had already snapped. It was just crusty with rust.



Although I marked the new bar for all three of the original radiator rubber mounting holes, I only drilled the two for the 16v rad. I've also added M6 nuts underneath for the bumper mountings.

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Old 21-08-2017, 06:29 PM   #55
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Well undoing the nuts and bolts for that rad bar once was enough so before I zinc primered it up, I welded some nuts on so now it's just 4 cap head bolts and a 5mm hex key to remove. Also shaped the end plates up a bit so that they sit within the curves of the original mounting point pressings.



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Old 21-08-2017, 08:52 PM   #56
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Cool job, makes it easier for fitting the engine too.
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Old 28-08-2017, 07:57 PM   #57
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Only taken a year since we went down to see Colin to get around to fitting some of his fine craftsmanship to the car...

Strut tower sides needed a little arc of relief near the tops to get the down tubes in the right place as the photo below shows they don't line up with out it nor fit in the top plates properly. Only a bit taken out really.


After lots of prep, welded in:




Ground down the welds on the top surface of the plate and primed. There are a few sections on that side of the bay where I need to do a bit more work to get them ready before primer. I've been using the 90% Zinc Plastikote stuff which I think is really good. I then ran out and the next stuff (which was Halfords as it was all I could get today) reacted so I am going to save that some something else and order some more of the Plastikote stuff.



Remembered to drill out the spot welds on the window wiper brackets before I welded the top plates in. I've not worked those out for the left hand drive wiper setup yet. Have started work on the other side now, but probably need to sort out the scuttle before doing much else.
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Old 10-09-2017, 11:07 PM   #58
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Started on the passenger side... needs some work due to some poor quality previous work. Not long after this started chopping bits out:



Not going to post a lot of pics of the work, because to be fair, most of that is not very exciting. So here's something a bit different. This is the standard position of the wiper motor:



For throttle bodies to fit in the scuttle the wiper motor needs to be moved to the other side of the scuttle.



I've done an AX single wiper motor conversion previously, but this time decided to fit a left hand drive wiper setup. Acquired one a few months ago from one of our Dutch friends:



Drilled out the brackets:



Scuttle looks a bit cleaner, just needs the holes welding up:



Just need to weld them on to the other side

Inside I took out the tunnel plate that the seats mount onto. I need to fab up some reinforcement to put some strength back in for the handbrake mounting and it'll need plating on the sides.



With this out when I weld the new seat rails in I'll be able to get a more central driving position



Also half way there on fitting the Satchell rear wishbone mount stiffeners



One thing I hadn't realised or if I knew it, had forgotten... S1/drum brake cars have a different handbrake setup.

This is the S1 handbrake:



S2/disc handbrake to go back in:

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Old 14-09-2017, 03:42 PM   #59
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Some good progress Chris.
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My resolution for 2011 is to sort my fucking car
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Old 17-09-2017, 09:59 PM   #60
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So when I had the white 16v Rallye caged and the same tunnel reinforcement plate removed, the MOT station failed the car because the mounting for the handbrake was then too flimsy afterwards. To remedy that I welded a plate on around the handbrake mounting points which kept the testers happy, but was no good because then to fit the handbrake I needed to fit an extra bit where the tunnel changes profile towards the back of the car. It did the job but looked a bit piece meal.

Based on this experience I thought that I would do something different this time. So cardboard template led to this being cut out of 3mm sheet. Centre line determined and a lesson learned in getting the plate the right way around. This is clearly the wrong way around...



Before that could go in, the original tunnel reinforcement plate was cut up to release this bit, which is what the handbrake gasket mounts into and gives the positions for the mountings. The standard mountings are 6mm rectangular blocks tapped out to M8, but I was missing one so I pressed out the other one and welded on some nuts onto thick washers giving me this:



Bit of fettling for shape and welded in:



Top plate shaped to fit the handbrake mounting points and the other end shaped to the change in profile of the tunnel. Back mounting points for the hydraulic handbrake get crush tubes. Decided to make it a little bit more interesting with a relieved bit under the hydraulic handbrake that matches up with the holes drilled in the base. Lined that cut out to stop crap getting under the plate...



Welded in



Everything fits.



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Some good progress Chris.
Thanks Gus
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Old 18-09-2017, 12:57 AM   #61
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Cool updates, I really want to remove the tunnel piece from my 106.
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Old 18-09-2017, 08:25 AM   #62
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Cool updates, I really want to remove the tunnel piece from my 106.
I need to do it in the Maxi too. The OMP HTE buckets don't fit in the available seat rail space...
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Old 18-09-2017, 12:57 PM   #63
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nice!
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:01 PM   #64
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Didn't seem to get a lot of garage time this weekend. Still did get some work done - managed to get the other Satchell wishbone mount reinforcement welded into the drivers footwell. I did some tidying up as when I modded the bulkhead for the PAS pedal box, I ended up using some nutserts for the lower mountings. I was never happy with that so whilst I had my head in the footwell with the MIG I took those out and welded in some M6 nuts. It fits much better and looks neater. Don't seem to have any pics of that but will try and remember next time I am out there.

Managed to get the left hand drive wiper motor brackets put in. Difficult welding job onto the bulkhead because it's difficult to see and to get the torch in a good position.



So after a brief interlude it's back to sorting out rot now on the nearside inner wing. Also found a bit on the chassis rail near the reinforcing gusset under the car. Will probably wait until I get it up on a rotisserie before I tackle that.

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Old 02-10-2017, 07:33 PM   #65
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This thread is giving me confidence to keep going with mine, thank you!

Top work, keep it going!
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:46 PM   #66
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This thread is giving me confidence to keep going with mine, thank you!

Top work, keep it going!
Cheers mate - I am putting off the biggest job to last. Will share the horror of the passenger side sill and the previous "repair" this weekend.

How are you getting on with your two Black ones?

The one with the black MOs looked hard as nails

You should post up some more Pics on here. Faceballs and Interwham are overrated

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Old 04-10-2017, 09:22 PM   #67
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Sold the better condition one a while back, and the one on MO's is my terrible one. Some plated bits I managed to pull off by hand after wire wheeling off the seam sealer. It's actually almost upsetting!

Luckily we have a barn outside our house so it's got plenty of storage space, and I recently bought a spit so I can at least make work a little easier on.

Will have to update my thread, but my Instagram pictures of it now are me just moping around about it. I have reread this and silver GTI to give me confidence
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Old 05-10-2017, 10:09 AM   #68
Cris B
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That Silver GTI.... Proper rust bucket. It was accident repaired (n/s rear quarter) and obviously had hidden problems.

In fairness I have recouped the cost of the car in selling bits I took off it and still have a spare engine and gearbox... No regrets about scrapping that one.
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Old 09-10-2017, 10:58 PM   #69
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Bit of garage time this weekend so put the big hole in the passenger side inner wing right. Part of the 3mm plate bracket for the gearbox mount has a 90 degree bend and ties into the engine bay side of the inner wheel arch. From factory the two were pressed together closing a 1.6mm gap created by the thickness of the chassis rail. To add a bit of strength in and simplify the repair I made that good with this extra bit of plate which was the welded on.



Dressed that back and primed then plated up the hole. Sounds quick, probably about 2 hours work all in to get the panel the right size and shape.



For anyone feeling overwhelmed by the repairs they need to do this is the big job I have been putting off... The passenger side sill:





Previous "repairs"



No idea what happened here:



How not to repair the chassis rail gusset (Chassis rail drain hole covered up) which the Peugeot Sport build manual specifically warns against.



Here is the repair I did on the 8v S2 resto so I know what is possible with patience. From this:



To this:

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Old 10-10-2017, 06:45 AM   #70
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i think we are missing a picture
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:30 AM   #71
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i think we are missing a picture
Wish I had and it was all automagically repaired
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:27 PM   #72
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What copy of the Peugeot sport build manual have you got Chris?

The copy I have shows this:
bodyshell by LeeThr, on Flickr

Which would cover the drain holes in the gussets.
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:59 PM   #73
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No the gusset does not have any drain holes which is why it rots often from the inside out. From factory all the holes had bungs and were undersealed over.

I was referring to the 20mm swaged hole in the chassis rail above the welded plated section in the above picture. The ATTENTION warning in the build manual says do not cover this up!
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:07 PM   #74
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Ahh im with you.. I think, the hole that's shown nearest rep.2 in that extract then is the one not to cover up.
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Old 13-10-2017, 06:30 PM   #75
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Still plugging away on the bodywork to get the engine bay finished. Yesterday a parcel arrived that I'd been waiting on to finish a job:



8mm O.D. brass tube which was then chopped down to create this bush bearing



Which allows the handbrake and hydraulic ram for the handbrake cylinder to be connected. Much better than it running on the threads of a bolt. It also means I can run an alloy fastener as all that is doing is stopping the bush from falling out and it's a lot easier to fit than a roll pin...

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