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Old 08-05-2017, 11:21 PM   #51
Cris B
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Turned card templates into steel:



End of the bulkhead was a bit ropey so marked it out and then cut a big bigger chasing the rust. This needed doing as you need to be able to weld this into the inner arch repairs.





Not too bad under the seam, only the end section nearest the arch needed some new metal in the lower part. Repaired with a patch panel.



I've fabbed up a section to close up the wheel arch (took hours), but before I fit it I thought I'd check out the chassis rail a bit more closely because it didn't look too clever. Also it gave more space to work in to assess things.



Worse underneath in places...



So chopped and drilled quite a bit and confirmed my suspicions. Several holes in the bottom of the rail. So all this came out. Some of which will be kept as a guide for making repair panels.



This resulted in a large hole.



There is more to come out but I need to put some new metal back in to try and keep some shape to it all before I chop out anymore.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:20 AM   #52
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Watching this with interest Cris - my S2 has gone in the same spot, although I'm going to have to get the front wishbone mount off the leg as well as it's rotted a bit further back too.
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Old 25-06-2017, 11:23 PM   #53
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Not updated here in a while as not much progress as I'd like has been made in the last three weekends as they have been write offs with DIY jobs (rebuild the boundary fence, then re-roof the kitchen, finally re-tile the shower), but have made some headway as per below:





Final bits to sort out on this arch - now chopped out ready to start rebuilding.



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Old 20-08-2017, 10:54 PM   #54
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April. That was when I started work on the drivers side inner wing. For a variety of reasons it's taken all this time to finish it. There was a lot of rot that was hidden from view, but the good news is it's all sorted now.



During this time I've had chance to think on a few other things. One was that some bits just weren't worth repairing, specifically the radiator support bar. So I chopped it out:



All of the three under bumper mounting bolts were seized in or had already snapped. It was just crusty with rust.



Although I marked the new bar for all three of the original radiator rubber mounting holes, I only drilled the two for the 16v rad. I've also added M6 nuts underneath for the bumper mountings.

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Old 21-08-2017, 07:29 PM   #55
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Well undoing the nuts and bolts for that rad bar once was enough so before I zinc primered it up, I welded some nuts on so now it's just 4 cap head bolts and a 5mm hex key to remove. Also shaped the end plates up a bit so that they sit within the curves of the original mounting point pressings.



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Old 21-08-2017, 09:52 PM   #56
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Cool job, makes it easier for fitting the engine too.
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Old 28-08-2017, 08:57 PM   #57
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Only taken a year since we went down to see Colin to get around to fitting some of his fine craftsmanship to the car...

Strut tower sides needed a little arc of relief near the tops to get the down tubes in the right place as the photo below shows they don't line up with out it nor fit in the top plates properly. Only a bit taken out really.


After lots of prep, welded in:




Ground down the welds on the top surface of the plate and primed. There are a few sections on that side of the bay where I need to do a bit more work to get them ready before primer. I've been using the 90% Zinc Plastikote stuff which I think is really good. I then ran out and the next stuff (which was Halfords as it was all I could get today) reacted so I am going to save that some something else and order some more of the Plastikote stuff.



Remembered to drill out the spot welds on the window wiper brackets before I welded the top plates in. I've not worked those out for the left hand drive wiper setup yet. Have started work on the other side now, but probably need to sort out the scuttle before doing much else.
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:07 AM   #58
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Started on the passenger side... needs some work due to some poor quality previous work. Not long after this started chopping bits out:



Not going to post a lot of pics of the work, because to be fair, most of that is not very exciting. So here's something a bit different. This is the standard position of the wiper motor:



For throttle bodies to fit in the scuttle the wiper motor needs to be moved to the other side of the scuttle.



I've done an AX single wiper motor conversion previously, but this time decided to fit a left hand drive wiper setup. Acquired one a few months ago from one of our Dutch friends:



Drilled out the brackets:



Scuttle looks a bit cleaner, just needs the holes welding up:



Just need to weld them on to the other side

Inside I took out the tunnel plate that the seats mount onto. I need to fab up some reinforcement to put some strength back in for the handbrake mounting and it'll need plating on the sides.



With this out when I weld the new seat rails in I'll be able to get a more central driving position



Also half way there on fitting the Satchell rear wishbone mount stiffeners



One thing I hadn't realised or if I knew it, had forgotten... S1/drum brake cars have a different handbrake setup.

This is the S1 handbrake:



S2/disc handbrake to go back in:

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Old 14-09-2017, 04:42 PM   #59
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Some good progress Chris.
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My resolution for 2011 is to sort my fucking car
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Old 17-09-2017, 10:59 PM   #60
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So when I had the white 16v Rallye caged and the same tunnel reinforcement plate removed, the MOT station failed the car because the mounting for the handbrake was then too flimsy afterwards. To remedy that I welded a plate on around the handbrake mounting points which kept the testers happy, but was no good because then to fit the handbrake I needed to fit an extra bit where the tunnel changes profile towards the back of the car. It did the job but looked a bit piece meal.

Based on this experience I thought that I would do something different this time. So cardboard template led to this being cut out of 3mm sheet. Centre line determined and a lesson learned in getting the plate the right way around. This is clearly the wrong way around...



Before that could go in, the original tunnel reinforcement plate was cut up to release this bit, which is what the handbrake gasket mounts into and gives the positions for the mountings. The standard mountings are 6mm rectangular blocks tapped out to M8, but I was missing one so I pressed out the other one and welded on some nuts onto thick washers giving me this:



Bit of fettling for shape and welded in:



Top plate shaped to fit the handbrake mounting points and the other end shaped to the change in profile of the tunnel. Back mounting points for the hydraulic handbrake get crush tubes. Decided to make it a little bit more interesting with a relieved bit under the hydraulic handbrake that matches up with the holes drilled in the base. Lined that cut out to stop crap getting under the plate...



Welded in



Everything fits.



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Some good progress Chris.
Thanks Gus
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Old 18-09-2017, 01:57 AM   #61
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Cool updates, I really want to remove the tunnel piece from my 106.
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Old 18-09-2017, 09:25 AM   #62
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Cool updates, I really want to remove the tunnel piece from my 106.
I need to do it in the Maxi too. The OMP HTE buckets don't fit in the available seat rail space...
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Old 18-09-2017, 01:57 PM   #63
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nice!
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:01 PM   #64
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Didn't seem to get a lot of garage time this weekend. Still did get some work done - managed to get the other Satchell wishbone mount reinforcement welded into the drivers footwell. I did some tidying up as when I modded the bulkhead for the PAS pedal box, I ended up using some nutserts for the lower mountings. I was never happy with that so whilst I had my head in the footwell with the MIG I took those out and welded in some M6 nuts. It fits much better and looks neater. Don't seem to have any pics of that but will try and remember next time I am out there.

Managed to get the left hand drive wiper motor brackets put in. Difficult welding job onto the bulkhead because it's difficult to see and to get the torch in a good position.



So after a brief interlude it's back to sorting out rot now on the nearside inner wing. Also found a bit on the chassis rail near the reinforcing gusset under the car. Will probably wait until I get it up on a rotisserie before I tackle that.

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Old 02-10-2017, 08:33 PM   #65
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This thread is giving me confidence to keep going with mine, thank you!

Top work, keep it going!
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:46 PM   #66
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This thread is giving me confidence to keep going with mine, thank you!

Top work, keep it going!
Cheers mate - I am putting off the biggest job to last. Will share the horror of the passenger side sill and the previous "repair" this weekend.

How are you getting on with your two Black ones?

The one with the black MOs looked hard as nails

You should post up some more Pics on here. Faceballs and Interwham are overrated

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Old 04-10-2017, 10:22 PM   #67
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Sold the better condition one a while back, and the one on MO's is my terrible one. Some plated bits I managed to pull off by hand after wire wheeling off the seam sealer. It's actually almost upsetting!

Luckily we have a barn outside our house so it's got plenty of storage space, and I recently bought a spit so I can at least make work a little easier on.

Will have to update my thread, but my Instagram pictures of it now are me just moping around about it. I have reread this and silver GTI to give me confidence
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:09 AM   #68
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That Silver GTI.... Proper rust bucket. It was accident repaired (n/s rear quarter) and obviously had hidden problems.

In fairness I have recouped the cost of the car in selling bits I took off it and still have a spare engine and gearbox... No regrets about scrapping that one.
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Old 09-10-2017, 11:58 PM   #69
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Bit of garage time this weekend so put the big hole in the passenger side inner wing right. Part of the 3mm plate bracket for the gearbox mount has a 90 degree bend and ties into the engine bay side of the inner wheel arch. From factory the two were pressed together closing a 1.6mm gap created by the thickness of the chassis rail. To add a bit of strength in and simplify the repair I made that good with this extra bit of plate which was the welded on.



Dressed that back and primed then plated up the hole. Sounds quick, probably about 2 hours work all in to get the panel the right size and shape.



For anyone feeling overwhelmed by the repairs they need to do this is the big job I have been putting off... The passenger side sill:





Previous "repairs"



No idea what happened here:



How not to repair the chassis rail gusset (Chassis rail drain hole covered up) which the Peugeot Sport build manual specifically warns against.



Here is the repair I did on the 8v S2 resto so I know what is possible with patience. From this:



To this:

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Old 10-10-2017, 07:45 AM   #70
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i think we are missing a picture
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:30 PM   #71
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i think we are missing a picture
Wish I had and it was all automagically repaired
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:27 PM   #72
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What copy of the Peugeot sport build manual have you got Chris?

The copy I have shows this:
bodyshell by LeeThr, on Flickr

Which would cover the drain holes in the gussets.
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:59 PM   #73
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No the gusset does not have any drain holes which is why it rots often from the inside out. From factory all the holes had bungs and were undersealed over.

I was referring to the 20mm swaged hole in the chassis rail above the welded plated section in the above picture. The ATTENTION warning in the build manual says do not cover this up!
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:07 PM   #74
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Ahh im with you.. I think, the hole that's shown nearest rep.2 in that extract then is the one not to cover up.
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Old 13-10-2017, 07:30 PM   #75
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Still plugging away on the bodywork to get the engine bay finished. Yesterday a parcel arrived that I'd been waiting on to finish a job:



8mm O.D. brass tube which was then chopped down to create this bush bearing



Which allows the handbrake and hydraulic ram for the handbrake cylinder to be connected. Much better than it running on the threads of a bolt. It also means I can run an alloy fastener as all that is doing is stopping the bush from falling out and it's a lot easier to fit than a roll pin...

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Old 20-10-2017, 11:17 PM   #76
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So after hand making them last time with aviation shears, as I have the floor pan in both this and Maxi to do I bought a load of blanking discs. I looked at getting them laser cut (astronomically expensive) so went for stamp cut ones in 25mm, 32mm and 40mm sizes.



So worked out what I needed for the floor pan and engine bay in this one and started to prep them. Each one needed a bit of tidying up as they all had a half a mill lip from being cut out on the press. Once that was done, hit them with some primer.



On the passenger side of the engine bay, the section near the gear box mount needed some work. So I chopped out this bit of the battery tray…



…and welded it back in the other way around (flipped around to the other side and moved the hole closer to the inner wheel arch).



The reason for this is partly aesthetic as in the standard design the section that joins the tray is edge on to the hole and so this looks better but it also means I can stitch weld the tray and the chassis reinforcement together.

I spend about four hours CAD templating and then trying to form the steel into the right shape to weld in as one piece. The template was right, but I couldn’t get it to form the right shape, so in the end decided to cut my losses and chop it into two



Now have those bits welded in and am getting ready to finish that side off…

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Old 23-10-2017, 06:04 AM   #77
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Welded in, primer's still wet Did a load of stitch welding to the Peugeot Sport build manual spec too.



So remaining jobs in the engine bay are:

1. Make some reinforcement gussets for the rear engine mount (these are now templated just need to cut them out of some 3mm plate).

2. Drop the engine and box in, mark up and letterbox the bulkhead so the throttle bodies can fit into the scuttle. This will require some making good.

3. With the engine, battery and brake servo back in fabricate a mount for the oil catch tank.
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Old 23-10-2017, 08:09 AM   #78
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Good progress. I read your thread on the white car on one of the mig welding forums on Saturday.

Pretty inspiring. i'm currently doing bits of welding on the maxi, i just hope it is up to the job lol.
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Old 23-10-2017, 09:52 AM   #79
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Good progress. I read your thread on the white car on one of the mig welding forums on Saturday.

Pretty inspiring. i'm currently doing bits of welding on the maxi, i just hope it is up to the job lol.
Thanks. As Stu had pointed out a few times my skills have come on quite a bit since that build with this being the third car Iíve worked on since then. Having access to more tools has helped a lot.
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Old 24-10-2017, 08:17 AM   #80
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i bet! I've recently bought a few more useful tools and its amazing how much easier it makes things.

when i made the rear turrets for the maxi at the weekend i had to bend one side in the vice but that gave me enough room to get the other bend in the press bender tool that Paul had made and it was super easy to do the second bend. The right tools help so much.
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Old 24-10-2017, 07:44 PM   #81
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Good progress. I read your thread on the white car on one of the mig welding forums on Saturday.

Pretty inspiring. i'm currently doing bits of welding on the maxi, i just hope it is up to the job lol.
Any links to it? I have got a bit more welding to sort on my Saxo so any guidance is always useful.
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Old 24-10-2017, 08:21 PM   #82
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www.mig-welding.co.uk

Loads of helpful folk and pro welders. Some quality threads in the Projects section.

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Any links to it? I have got a bit more welding to sort on my Saxo so any guidance is always useful.
I’m not too far from Warrington. I could pop over to see you and have a chat about it at some point if you want.
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Old 25-10-2017, 08:02 AM   #83
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Any links to it? I have got a bit more welding to sort on my Saxo so any guidance is always useful.
The stuff i'm doing at the moment is mostly modifying rather than restoration but if you search facebook for "preparation 106 maxi turbo" i have a page on there.

Quote:
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www.mig-welding.co.uk

Loads of helpful folk and pro welders. Some quality threads in the Projects section.



Iím not too far from Warrington. I could pop over to see you and have a chat about it at some point if you want.

i think i need to take a trip over to the wrong side of the hills to see k16!
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Old 04-11-2017, 01:07 AM   #84
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Plugged the floor pan. Didn't do some of the bits nearest the passenger side sill because it's got to come off.



Made these out of some 3mm plate



V-grooved the butt weld joint and welded in



Due to an opportunity there's been a change in plans, so I needed to make this:



Drill this bit and then weld it in:





That means I can fit this (cheers Dave)



The consequences of the is that a standard size battery won't fit in the original position any more. So I will need to do something different about that...
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Old 05-11-2017, 11:57 PM   #85
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Seeing as the battery won't fit above the gearbox mount anymore...



Quite pleased with how that came out...
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Old 06-11-2017, 10:55 AM   #86
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I recognise some of that Nice work.

The fact the battery wont fit never crossed my mind.
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:49 PM   #87
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I recognise some of that Nice work.

The fact the battery wont fit never crossed my mind.
Cheers Dave

It’s a really good fit and solidly built. Will look at dry cells again.
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:26 PM   #88
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I’m not too far from Warrington. I could pop over to see you and have a chat about it at some point if you want.
I'll hold you to that as soon as I get the bloody thing stripped down. It's part of the million other projects I have on the go at the minute lol.

Is that one of compbrakes master cylinder setups by the way?
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:03 AM   #89
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Is that one of compbrakes master cylinder setups by the way?
Donít know the answer to that. I think Dave fabíd it up
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:01 AM   #90
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Its an original design The Compbrake one is shit and the MC's point down at 90 degrees.
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Old 07-11-2017, 11:09 AM   #91
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The Compbrake one is shit
Mon dieu! Quelle surprise
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:58 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseldave View Post
Its an original design The Compbrake one is shit and the MC's point down at 90 degrees.
I see

A mate has one and complains of soft pedal feel all the time. I haven't had a proper look at it yet so any ideas of mods I can do to get it to function better (other than binning it?)
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Old 08-11-2017, 09:05 PM   #93
Cris B
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No expert but I think it could be things such as:

Flex in the brake pipe system (any rubber hoses?)
Mismatched master and slaves
Flex in the bulkhead
Air in the system (possible leak)
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:16 AM   #94
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or the fact that it's compbrake!
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Old 11-11-2017, 12:52 PM   #95
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Getting Slammed

Stu loaned his spacial tool to me so I could crack on with a part of the project I have been wanting to get to for months.



The slam panel on the car was not in the best of condition. Nice from afar but far from nice.



The elements had taken their toll and the central section was looking particularly crusty:



To be fair, it was just plain dirty with years of road grime and engine oil on it, which did clean off:



The front face kind of looked okay at a distance



Unfortunately it had been hand painted at some point with what I assume was Hammerite. This seems to have been done over several parts of the interior too



So after seeing the adverts on the TV of the latest formula Cillit Bang and how it can clean up your toolbox with a quick dip I bought a load of it and gave it a soak. The results were impressive...





In fairness if your believe this was done with just chemicals then you need your head checking

The rot had taken it's toll over the years, the reinforcement behind the bonnet catch was looking quite fragile:



Time to make a new part



To be continued...
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:33 PM   #96
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Did some fabrication. Made this. Side by side comparison with old and new:



Tidied up the main panel. Lightened and swaged. Those who have looked closely will know the panel is not symmetrical due to the design around the rad. It turns out the aluminium plates are also not positioned equally, so I have redrilled one side to match the other.



Welded the bottom nut for the bonnet pins on too. just need to weld on the reinforcement piece now.

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Old 11-11-2017, 10:56 PM   #97
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Very detailed work, love it.
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:41 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseldave View Post
Very detailed work, love it.
Cheers Dave

Finished the slam panel mods and repairs:



Then fab'd up this out of some aluminium:



And this out of some zintec:



That'd be the radiator mounts sorted:

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Old 13-11-2017, 08:06 AM   #99
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i did't realize that the S1 slam panel wasn't box section like the S2. i think i'll leave mine as it is though as it's about the only bit of strength in the front of the car LOL
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Old 13-11-2017, 01:17 PM   #100
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Rad mounting technique looks familiar ����
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