What Oil is everybody using ?????

[oilman]

Originally Posted by SLIK

As per Gordons advice I have the following question for Guy.

I Am about to complete the construction of a brand new Pinto engine (as soon as a miracle allows me to purchase the cam).

Basically running a 1.5mm overbore with new standard oversive pistons (big rings, 7K rpm limit). Fitted are uprated Wandervaal bearings, and heavy duty cam bearings. Oiling the whole lot is the standard high pressure pump upgrade. And when the cam appears it shall be a new spray bar with 1mm spray holes.

The whole lot is balanced etc etc.

So I am looking for 2 recommendations, a running in oil (if needed) and subsequently oil to run her on.

There shall be no danger from missed service intervals and likely she shall be unlikely to get over 3K miles beween oil changes. Or once a year whichever sooner.

You want to run in on a good rich mineral oil like the Silkolene Silkolube 20w-50 for around 1000 miles. Then move to the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50, I confirmed this with John Rowland the R&D Chemist for fuchs/silkolene as he has experiance with Pinto engines.

Cheers

Guy.

[SLIK]

Thanks mate.

I shall follow your advice there.

Might nick some of dads 20W50 castrol for the running in as he gets it in big drums for the other cars, then shall be in touch for the silkolene 15W50. Likelly this shall be next summer as I am a post grad student now

[oilman]

Originally Posted by SLIK

Thanks mate.

I shall follow your advice there.

Might nick some of dads 20W50 castrol for the running in as he gets it in big drums for the other cars, then shall be in touch for the silkolene 15W50. Likelly this shall be next summer as I am a post grad student now

Sounds like a plan.

Give me a shout when you are ready.

Cheers

Guy.

[Mankee]

Listen to Guy and Simon from OPIE Oils. They really know what they are talking about and the advice is fantastic! I will be ordering some Silkolene engine and gearbox oil when the Rallye is due for it's next service in 6k miles. Cheers.

[oilman]

Originally Posted by Mankee

Listen to Guy and Simon from OPIE Oils. They really know what they are talking about and the advice is fantastic! I will be ordering some Silkolene engine and gearbox oil when the Rallye is due for it's next service in 6k miles. Cheers.

Good man

[oilman]

Our website has now been updated http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm with a full set of technical data sheets for Motul including the Double Ester 300V product range. Happy browsing!

Cheers
Guy

Got millers 10w40 in now and its lovely

Originally Posted by Patrick F

Got millers 10w40 in now and its lovely

Millers all the time for me .... such an improvement on magnatec and silkolene !!

Please Matt, in light of all the information and links that have been posted on this thread, explain to us exactly why millers is better than silkoline.

[oilman]

Originally Posted by Thomas M

Please Matt, in light of all the information and links that have been posted on this thread, explain to us exactly why millers is better than silkoline.

I am curious also.....

Cheers

Guy.

Both myself and Matt last weekend did oil changes on our cars (my S2 and his extensivally modified gti) and both of us have felt alot of difference in the way the engine now runs in comparison to how it did before hand.

I used to run the castrol semi synthetic oils in my S2 and the service history that it has shows that it always was filled with 10w40 semi synthetic. I flushed my engine and the oil was changed to Millers XSS 10w40 and the engine is less noisy and pulls a little better.

Again this is the case with matts engine in which he has run silkolene and castrol in the past but when using the millers it is also quite and he has also reported that it is pulling a little better.

The science may say that these engines should run best on the silkolene fully synth but the fact remains that Matt claims his engine is running the best it ever has after the oil change this weekend and mine also is running alot better although that may also be due to other maintainence that Matt carried out last weekend

after using millers XSS my car now idles a lot better - the pick up is a bit better and cold starting has drastically improved, the engine has also gone quieter and generally a lot smoother ( not as lumpy as it used to be )... I have used a lot of oils in my past and I will safely say that the millers has proved to be the best so far .

[Mankee]

Seems bloody reasonable price too. 5 litres of XSS 10W-40 is about £15 inc. VAT.

Originally Posted by Mankee

Seems bloody reasonable price too. 5 litres of XSS 10W-40 is about £15 inc. VAT.

Managed to nab it for about £12 for 5 litres but I was buying 3 bottles of the stuff.

Some places take the micky with it and charge around £25

[Mark H]

can this millers oil be used for higher mileage engines , ie 108K ???


mh

Using it on my 98k engine

[Mark H]

cool , just need to find a supplier near me

cheers

mh

http://www.millersoils.net/M3stock.html

look here

[Mark H]

right on my doorstep

i think i shall have to give it a go

cheers

mh

[oilman]

You should read some of the posts on the previous page of this thread.

The reason Millers is cheap is beacuse its a "hydrocracked" oil not a "synthetic" oil like Silkolene or Motul.

It is perfectly legal to sell oil labelled as synthetic even though its only a petroleum base but bear in mind, these oils are inferior to the real thing.

Remember this? Perhaps worth re-posting for those that missed it!

A word of caution – You get what you pay for!

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

Quote:

Costs of synthetics vary considerably.

The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.

The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.

We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?

Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.

Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.

This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

Unquote:

This article is something that all car owners should read and understand before buying oil and I’ve posted this with Johns permission.

I'm afraid there is no such thing as a bargain when it comes to oil as stated by a chemist who knows his stuff.

At the end of the day, it's your car, your money and your choice.

Cheers
Guy

PS: Silkolene, Motul, Castrol, Mobil, Total and Fuchs tech data sheets available to download here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

[Adi]

Millers all the time for me .... such an improvement on magnatec and silkolene !!

Sorry mate got to disagree. I do suppose everything depends on the application......but a good quality oil is a good quality oil no matter what engine it goes into.

Back in the original thread, I mentioned to GordonM about the superior qualities of Silkolene Pro S. He susequently did his homework and too discovered what a great product it was.

To back track.......I've mentioned this topic on a few oil based discussions. I originally had a 206DTurbo which used to be regularly driven hard. I quickly swapped to Millers fully synth 5w40 as I live in Huddersfield and the Millers HQ is 5 mins from my door. But after I had started to use Millers, I noticed that the oil temp was rising alarmingly when the turbo worked for a decent amount of time. The oil temp would rise to 115-120 degrees if you believed the guage.
After speaking to a few different people about what the prob maybe, I decided to seek the advice of a few different oil technicians. I soon learned of the difference in oil and did my own research. All the chap from Silkolene UK had told me.....was backed up by the facts I was finding on the net. So I decided to give the Pro S a try and I was able to pick it up from a nearby company for £30/5 litres.
After swapping the oil for Silkolene Pro S 5w40.......I noticed a difference straight away. The oil temp was slightly lower at normal operating temp and was FAR more stable when the turbo was loaded. In fact no matter how much stick I gave the engine......the oil guage never went above approx 95 degrees.
That for me was the proof.......and showed the superior make up of the Silkolene to the Miller XFD "fully synth".
It would have been so easy to carry on using the Millers, as I was getting it for free. But I was willing to spend £30 everytime as I saw the massive difference the Pro S made to the original problem.

[Sam_M]

Lots of great technical points in this thread. It is oil change day for me tommorow and I have some silkolene ready to go in. Let you know how it goes.

[oilman]

I must say that it's no surprise, I've sold the stuff for 10 years now and have thousands of happy Customers. It is an extremely good quality oil.

The only oil that's comparable in chemical tests is the new MOTUL 300V range which once again has quality synthetic basestocks and that's what counts when it comes to lubrication qualities.

I'm pleased to say that I now sell both!

Cheers
Guy

[SLIK]

I've stuck this older thread as its relevance is eternal.....