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Old 06-06-2008, 08:12 AM   #1
tommy_a
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engine rebuild help !!

right as you may have seen my engine is slightly fooked at the moment !!

one of the pistons is slightly damaged :


would i be able to swap this piston for another one ? or would i have to swap all 4 ?
also, would i have to remove the conrods from the crank to do this ? as i would rather not disturb their bearings. if i have to remove them and the bearings, how difficult is it to replace all of the crank bearing and seals ?? (better to do it now while its apart !!)

and would i just have to use S2 1.6 pistons, or would i be able to use any piston from any 1.6 model ??

any help, hints or tips would be greatly appreciated !!
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:43 AM   #2
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I wouldn't have thought it would be a problem replacing just the one piston, either way you will have to remove the conrods, make sure you have all the proper measuring equipment too and measure many many many times . your better checking with someone profesh though
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:17 AM   #3
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You will have to remove the conrod from the crank to replace it I think. Might be worth doing all the bearings and the piston rings just while you're there.
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:49 AM   #4
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Hi-comp pistons
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:08 AM   #5
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As ponk says you would be much better off replacing as much as you can afford and giving it a good clean if you can be arsed, better safe than sorry as they say. Let me know if you find out a way to get to the gudgeon pin without removing the piston from the bore
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:51 PM   #6
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to be fair thats not that badly damaged
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:38 PM   #7
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think im going to leave it to the professionals to be honest !! want it done right !! would hate to do it myself to have something fail on me !!

cheers for the info though guys !!

also, does anyone know anywhere around the northwest that would be able to rebuild the bottom end for me ?? also what am i looking at cost wise ?
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:53 PM   #8
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What's that Skippy? Take the car down to Cornwall for the "Sandy Brown" treatment?
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Old 06-06-2008, 03:57 PM   #9
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16v bottom end with valve cut outs machined in and a remap?
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:23 PM   #10
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16v bottom end with valve cut outs machined in and a remap?
I have a 16v bottom end going cheap if you want to pm me Tommy, im fairly local as well!!
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:46 PM   #11
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does the 16v bottom end fit then ?? didnt know that !!

so what would be the advantage of doing this, also whats needed for it to fit ??

cheers peeps !!

oh and pye, how much you after for the bottom end ?? also what condition is it in?
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:30 AM   #12
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You'll need the valve cut outs cut into the piston crowns to give enough valve-piston clearance for your cam, which is a little hassle, but the flat topped pistons will raise the compression ratios slightly, improving part throttle performance mostly, but the full throttle power may increase too.

The map would need to be trimmed to compensate.
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Old 07-06-2008, 07:32 AM   #13
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i've got some 16v pistons and rods (J4) with 60k on them. JP4 would increase the CR more but they'll also need machining.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:14 PM   #14
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right, so let me get this right.

i can use the 16v bottom end, but need to have cut outs made in the pstons to allow for the valves ? both inlet and exhaust ? where can i get this done ? anyone know where around the north west that would be able to do this ?? would i need to use 8v or 16v head gasket and headbolts ??

and the 8v head will mate to the 16v bottom end with no other problems ??

while its apart, is there anything else i could do to the bottom end to make it better ??

cheers guys !!

ive just been thinking, if i do go for the 16v bottom end, will i have to adapt the loom i have, or will it fit the sensors on the new block ??
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:16 AM   #15
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It would all fit fine and you'd have a better crankcase breather too. Getting the crank/rods and pistons balanced would be nice, but not essential. I can pocket the pistons if you send them down, already got the pattern worked out.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:44 AM   #16
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Is there any benefit in knife edging the crank?
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
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It would all fit fine and you'd have a better crankcase breather too. Getting the crank/rods and pistons balanced would be nice, but not essential. I can pocket the pistons if you send them down, already got the pattern worked out.
sweet !! cheers for the info mate !! it will be a few weeks before i can afford to have them done though !! oh and you might aswell make me an inlet manifold at the same time !!

i will drop you a pm when i can afford to send them to you !!
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:08 AM   #18
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Is there any benefit in knife edging the crank?
Isn't that to stop oil sticking to the crank and causing drag or something?
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Old 08-06-2008, 04:29 PM   #19
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Its also supposed to reduce friction from the oil in the sump. Not sure how affective it is though.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:46 PM   #20
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The crank doesn't actually pass through the bulk of oil in the sump, only the splashed oil and heavy vapour that exists in the crankcase. You have to be chasing very small margins of improvement to justify knife edging really.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:22 AM   #21
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Thats what I thought.
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Old 21-06-2008, 11:03 PM   #22
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sorry to drag this back up but i need some info !!

i want to rebuild the bottome end myself but im a little unsure. the main thing i need info on is, the crank and rod bearings !!!

will i be able to re-use the old ones ?? or is it best to use new ones !! (probably an obvious answer i know !! lol) if i were to use new ones, would i just put them in the appropriate places and then re-build ?? or do they need grinding in or something ?? any info would be greatly appreciated !!!

also do i need to replace the pins and cir-clips that hold the pistons onto the con-rods ??
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Old 22-06-2008, 07:15 AM   #23
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If it's all apart, it's a good time to replace the main and big end bearings obviously, but if they're in good condition, it's not essential. You can check the condition of the bearings and journals visually for signs of scoring or damage/wear. The running clearances can be checked using "Plastigauge" as described in the Haynes book. Plastigauge can be obtained from numerous engine component suppliers, eg Burton Power.
The circlips on the pistons are easily distorted by removal and should be replaced, the part number is 063025, 49p each and you need 8.
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Old 23-06-2008, 10:40 AM   #24
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cheers for that mate !! ive read the haynes a few times and understand a bit more on how to do it, but im not confident enough yet !!

do i need to re-place the pins that hold the pistns to the conrods aswell ?? or can they be re-used ??
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Old 24-06-2008, 07:05 AM   #25
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As long as there's no scoring on the pins or slack in the fit, they're fine to re-use.
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:23 PM   #26
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THREAD FROM THE DEAD!

I've just tried to purchase some replacement snap rings from Peugeot (J4 piston, part 0630 25) and they have told me they are no longer supplied and there is no replacement or alternative part.

Anyone know where these can be bought?
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Old 30-04-2018, 10:53 AM   #27
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If the rings are 1.2mm/1.5mm/2.5mm then Mahle part number is 040 04 N0

Should be the same as TU5JP4/TU5JP so plenty manufacturers to choose from.
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Old 30-04-2018, 11:08 AM   #28
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If the rings are 1.2mm/1.5mm/2.5mm then Mahle part number is 040 04 N0

Should be the same as TU5JP4/TU5JP so plenty manufacturers to choose from.
Thanks for the reply dude. I've ended up reusing the old ones. They looked ok and didn't deform as result of removing them. I'd have much preferred to get new ones though!

I thought all JP4 engines were an interference fit on the gudgeon pin? The set I have here certainly are!?

EDIT: just googled the part number you gave me and it's coming up piston rings. It's not piston rings I'm looking for, it's the snap rings that prevent the gudgeon pin sliding out on the J4 pistons!

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Old 30-04-2018, 11:33 AM   #29
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Oops...sorry, misread your question.

You don't need to replace the snap rings. As long as they are not broken and they fit inside snug, you can reuse them.
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