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Old 21-04-2006, 08:20 AM   #1
alex205mi16
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Talking DIY Faultcode Reading

http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/Diy_ecu.htm

English is not spot on but if gives you enough info to complete it within a few mins... also has the fault codes here

http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/ecucodes.htm

i used an old audio cable of 2m length with stripped ends (only the one wire used though), a toggle switch and a screw (to put in diagnostics port/ substitute for screwdriver as above link)

I put the striped end inside the battery negative terminal, installed toggle switch inline (make sure you have enough length to toggle the switch whilst sitting in car, thats why you need 2-3m or so)

i then used a typical wood screw and wrapped the other stripped end of wire around it and secured with some electrical tape...

beware there are 2 pins in the diagnostics port, i did not get the right one first time and it did nothing.... i think if you hold the doagnostics port with the metal clip facing down wards, its the left pin you want to attach the screw/driver into to earth the port.

took me all of 2 minitues to create and saved me 20 buying a fault code reader from halfords etc...

gave me fault codes of

33
44
52

nice, that is knock, map and lambda sensors to sort out!!!

but might sort my running issues. Anyone have an idea why it would throw up knock sensor?? never heard of one going!!
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Old 21-04-2006, 08:25 AM   #2
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Good find! Saves some money that's for sure!
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Old 21-04-2006, 09:44 AM   #3
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i still cant get over how simple it was... if anyone has any q`s feel free to PM me.

Alex
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Old 21-04-2006, 09:53 AM   #4
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Does this work on a S2 as i cnat find that plug ?

Tom
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Old 21-04-2006, 10:01 AM   #5
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Mate, that is BLOODY BRILLIANT!

Won't work on S2s. Think the OBD port is inside the car just under the passenger side fusebox.
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Old 21-04-2006, 10:09 AM   #6
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Any ideas on how to read a s2 ?
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Old 21-04-2006, 11:51 AM   #7
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I dont know why it wont work on an S2...i dont know much about them really if i am honest.. what management system do they run? If a gunsons or draper etc fault finder works on an s2 i dont see why this wont (as the gunsons etc just reads the flashes the dash would give anyway). Might just need a longer wire to a good earth... worth a try anyway!!

i wonder if it works across the range, ie 205 gti ,405 mi, 306 s16 etc.

glad to be of help...!!!
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Old 22-04-2006, 09:45 PM   #8
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Worked well but cant delete the fault code's to do re-test????????

mine threw up TPS, Temp sensor and VSS. Have changed all (again) bar vss (as its missing).

still runs like shit though
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:39 AM   #9
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Has anybody tried this yet?
I cant get this to work on my car my test socket has two wires going to one pin, and one to the other, which pin do i use?

Im getting kinda desperate to find out why my cars being rubbish

edit:
It does say pin 2 later on in the text, and that the engine warning light should go out when grounding (pressing the button to start the reading process) but mine doesnt.
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Old 21-07-2006, 03:30 AM   #10
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just to clarify this before i go poking around the engine bay. If i use some electrical household cable and put one end around the neg battery terminal and switch in line with this and then attach the other end of the wire to the sd connector it should work?? Can someone direct me

Wire 1
Battery----------switch----------sd slot

wire 2
sd slot--------- attach to car?
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Old 21-07-2006, 11:27 PM   #11
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thanks for the tips, iv got a xsi 1.4 s1 that runs realy rough n pops n farts. i used ur methord and got the throtle position sensor, crank sensor and C) pot even ( its the non cat version) just wondered if u had any idea wer i can get the second hand parts from. thanks Rob
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Old 21-07-2006, 11:40 PM   #12
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anyname, how did you have everything connected up?

I cant seem to get it working on my 1.4 XSi.
Did you have one switched wire to earth, and on perminately earthed?
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Old 22-07-2006, 01:07 AM   #13
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got mine working now. Thanks to a photo from stu d.
I had 2 wires. one went from green plug to a bare end, then the other was tucked in the negative battery terminal with a bare end on the other side. then i simply connected them up for three seconds while ignition was on took them away from eachother and hey presto,worked 1st time.
I got an actuator code of 82 which means injector. What does that mean? Does that mean fuel injectors, spark plugs, fuel pump??? Anyone have a list of possible items under "injectors". And while it was doing the actuator test there was a constant click click click click click...... untill i turned ignition off. Seemed to be coming from spark plug/leads area. Now im more stumped then ever. But im glad thats the only fault that came up. Any help?
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Old 22-07-2006, 12:59 PM   #14
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i conected a wire to earth on the battrey then another to the socket under the ecu that dosnt conect to anything just a plastic socket next to the ecu (i tried the pins randomly and got the right 1 the first time) then sat in the car turned the egnition on and touched the wires for 3 seconds at a time to find the falts as the lad who st5arted the thread, hope this helps, rob
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:13 PM   #15
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i dont understand this..

am i thick or what ?

lee
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Old 30-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #16
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hello again, could anyone tell me were to buy the sensors from please and alos what is code 41? thanks alot. rob
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Old 30-09-2006, 02:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex205mi16 View Post
http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/Diy_ecu.htm

English is not spot on but if gives you enough info to complete it within a few mins... also has the fault codes here

http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/ecucodes.htm

i used an old audio cable of 2m length with stripped ends (only the one wire used though), a toggle switch and a screw (to put in diagnostics port/ substitute for screwdriver as above link)

I put the striped end inside the battery negative terminal, installed toggle switch inline (make sure you have enough length to toggle the switch whilst sitting in car, thats why you need 2-3m or so)

i then used a typical wood screw and wrapped the other stripped end of wire around it and secured with some electrical tape...

beware there are 2 pins in the diagnostics port, i did not get the right one first time and it did nothing.... i think if you hold the doagnostics port with the metal clip facing down wards, its the left pin you want to attach the screw/driver into to earth the port.

took me all of 2 minitues to create and saved me 20 buying a fault code reader from halfords etc...

gave me fault codes of

33
44
52

nice, that is knock, map and lambda sensors to sort out!!!

but might sort my running issues. Anyone have an idea why it would throw up knock sensor?? never heard of one going!!





sorry to bother you again the code site has just loaded up and 41 means CAS but i dont have a clue what CAS is, could someone please help?!
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Old 19-10-2006, 07:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anyname View Post
sorry to bother you again the code site has just loaded up and 41 means CAS but i dont have a clue what CAS is, could someone please help?!
CAS = Crank Angle Sensor or CAS circuit
I found it on draper manual from their code reader they design for peugeot/citroen here is the pdf manual that has more details about codes

source
http://www.draper.co.uk/
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Old 05-12-2006, 12:41 PM   #19
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Has anyone tried this on a S2? 8v or 16v? Would love to do the fault reading myself, instead of paying 50 for my cardealer to do it.
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Old 05-12-2006, 06:23 PM   #20
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It wont work on a S2, they use a more complicated method to read the codes.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:19 AM   #21
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Will a Draper Fault Code Reader sort me out then? Anyone tried this?
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Old 15-03-2007, 09:35 PM   #22
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xsi

Quote:
Originally Posted by alex205mi16 View Post
http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/Diy_ecu.htm

English is not spot on but if gives you enough info to complete it within a few mins... also has the fault codes here

http://www.peugeotclubmalaysia.com/ecucodes.htm

i used an old audio cable of 2m length with stripped ends (only the one wire used though), a toggle switch and a screw (to put in diagnostics port/ substitute for screwdriver as above link)

I put the striped end inside the battery negative terminal, installed toggle switch inline (make sure you have enough length to toggle the switch whilst sitting in car, thats why you need 2-3m or so)

i then used a typical wood screw and wrapped the other stripped end of wire around it and secured with some electrical tape...

beware there are 2 pins in the diagnostics port, i did not get the right one first time and it did nothing.... i think if you hold the doagnostics port with the metal clip facing down wards, its the left pin you want to attach the screw/driver into to earth the port.

took me all of 2 minitues to create and saved me 20 buying a fault code reader from halfords etc...

gave me fault codes of

33
44
52

nice, that is knock, map and lambda sensors to sort out!!!

but might sort my running issues. Anyone have an idea why it would throw up knock sensor?? never heard of one going!!
hi mate could you tell me where the diagnostics port is on my xsi please. many thanks
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:40 PM   #23
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Make sure you clear the faults after reading them,
then drive the car and recheck,

The faults stored at the moment might be from when you have just unplugged sensors and stuff when playing in the engine bay from years ago.
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Old 21-01-2008, 11:02 PM   #24
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I couldnt get this to work so i bought a halfords one - this doesnt work either!
I plugged it into the green connector which is infront of the ECU closer the bumper. It looks like its normally plugged into a socket which goes no where. is this the correct one?
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Old 22-01-2008, 06:43 PM   #25
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yep, that is the one
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Old 24-03-2008, 03:13 PM   #26
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Is this the plug? I have tried putting in a switch, nothing, so tried the (I thought) totally foolproof method of getting my brother to stand there with a bit of wire coneected directly to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other to a small screwdriver, and then poking it in the socket.

Only trouble is, I got no response from the K light whatsoever. It didn't go out no matter which socket we plugged it into, and it certainly didn't flash me the answer to my problems.

Any ideas?
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Old 24-03-2008, 10:39 PM   #27
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that is the one, you did have your ignition on when you were doing it didnt you (2nd click)
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Old 25-03-2008, 10:07 AM   #28
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Yep, although how many clicks are there? I put it to where the fuel pump comes on. Was that too far?
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Old 25-03-2008, 06:12 PM   #29
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na thats the one, the fuel pump will prime, and your ecu light should be lit at this point, then when you earth that left pin (must hold down for 5 secs) it will go out, then start flashing when you release
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Old 25-03-2008, 07:22 PM   #30
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Did it! Wooh!

Got 34 which is CFSV.

What the bloody hell is one of those?

Edit:

Carbon Filter Solenoid Valve or Canister Purge Valve.

Last edited by Jamesbowyer; 26-03-2008 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 17-09-2008, 11:08 PM   #31
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Well

i tried that but without response, will try it later with some help...
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Old 18-09-2008, 07:47 AM   #32
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that guide doesnt seem quite right when i did mine, i just shoved one crocodile clip in that left pin, and clipped the other end of it on an audio cable, clipped another crocodile clip on the neg of battery, then to the other cable ont he ausio lead, sat in the car with ignition on and touched the other ends of the cables together for 5 secs, ecu light goes out, then starts flashing, when it stops, just hold em together again for 5 secs and it will flash another code at you
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:35 PM   #33
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just look through this and had a go worked really well, came back with 34 which is Carbon Filter Solenoid Valve or Canister Purge Valve. really good
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:26 PM   #34
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how do you clear the codes?
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:21 PM   #35
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does anyone know if this works on a s1 rallye with a 16v engine, ive tried but cant get it to work. was wondering if im doing something wrong
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:27 PM   #36
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it should work if its been wired up, but people dont always bother connecting up the non essential wires when converting the looms
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:33 PM   #37
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well which wires would it be, as i did my loom using a guide on here so the only cables i had left would be what everyone else had left over.
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:36 PM   #38
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probably one of those then ill have a scour on autodata and see if i can find you a cable number, give me a minute
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:40 PM   #39
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cheers mate

there is power at the other pin though as i put it in there first by mistake (pin 1) and when i put it to earth to start the test, it started smoking.
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:43 PM   #40
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140 and 141 go to the data link connector, id see how earthing one of those down goes

is your management light connected up?

Last edited by quin; 16-09-2009 at 04:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:45 PM   #41
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ye it comes on when i put key to second position
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:47 PM   #42
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gdgd just checking hmm if ya post up the numbers of the left over wires, (if visible) that may help
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:48 PM   #43
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ill go have a look know might have to pop out though so if i do ill post them up tomorrow cheers quin
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Old 16-09-2009, 04:58 PM   #44
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okiedokie, then ill see what i can see, someone will more than likely know straight away by tommorow hopefully if i cant figure it out
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Old 16-09-2009, 05:45 PM   #45
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ok well just had major problem, tried earthing a red wire that wasnt connected as its a red wire at the diagnostics plug and the ecu light went out but never came back on. It had blown the fuel pump relay luckily i had a spare one. but here are the cable numbers i have left over, seems to be 2 different numbers on each cable so hope i have the right ones
140 red
292 red
292 cream
291 green
141 yellow
220 darker yellow
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Old 16-09-2009, 05:51 PM   #46
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ok, nw eatin chinese will gander afterwards
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Old 16-09-2009, 05:54 PM   #47
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ok cheers mate ive got to go out now so dont rush and i wont have access to tinterweb till the morning now cheers again
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Old 16-09-2009, 08:02 PM   #48
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140 red = pin 31 on ecu - goes to pin 1 of data link connector (or pin 7 if after 98 loom)
141 yellow = pin 12 on ecu - goes to pin 2 of data link connector (or pin 15 if after 98 loom)

there the only 2 wires shown on there which is useless but i think from having a search its wire 141 you may need to ground

Last edited by quin; 16-09-2009 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 17-09-2009, 07:08 AM   #49
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cheers mate ill give it a try
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Old 17-09-2009, 08:52 PM   #50
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If you are using the 16v eECU then this method will not work because they use OBD2, this only works on S1 8v cars with the connector by the ECU
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