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Old 16-12-2015, 06:36 AM   #51
Timberland
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Just checked the forecast and its gonna rain all morning
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Old 16-12-2015, 08:25 PM   #52
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So today was blasting day. We had the car in the workshop, inside a gazebo and the rest of the workshop sheeted over to prevent too much mess. Here is Andy from Blastek making a start:



Complete with Transit, trailer mounted compressor and 6 buckets of blast media




After about an hour of blasting, Andy was struggling. The underbody sealer used by Peugeot was proving too tough and the blast media was bouncing off. This is the area cleared in an hour!



It was decided that the best way to tackle the sealer was a blowtorch and a scrapper. A quick visit to Screwfix and I had everything I needed. Here's the section I did with the blow torch. Used a whole canister of gas to get this far.



And here is the floor pan after I attacked it with a Stanley scraper.



This is how much came off after a couple of hours.



I stopped scrapping as I broke the scrapper! I'll get another one tomorrow and finish the rest on Friday. Andy is coming back on Saturday morning to go over the floor again after I've removed most of the sealer. The engine bay should be straight forward as there is hardly any sealer there.

If any of you are thinking of getting a shell blasted, my advice is don't.
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Old 16-12-2015, 09:09 PM   #53
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Sealer is a big no no for blasting. The guy I use told me he could blast a balloon all day long and
It won't burst, the media will just bounce off it.

Scraping that crap off is a thankless job, ive done it on too many cars.
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Old 16-12-2015, 09:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseldave View Post
Sealer is a big no no for blasting. The guy I use told me he could blast a balloon all day long and
It won't burst, the media will just bounce off it.

Scraping that crap off is a thankless job, ive done it on too many cars.
You're not wrong
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Old 16-12-2015, 09:53 PM   #55
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Looks like your getting there , shell looks really fresh no hidden suprises then? Not looking forward to doing this to mine I used a wire wheel on the grinder on the last car I did . But might try the heat technique now

Stick at it looks like the worst is by with

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Old 16-12-2015, 10:05 PM   #56
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Looks like your getting there , shell looks really fresh no hidden suprises then? Not looking forward to doing this to mine I used a wire wheel on the grinder on the last car I did . But might try the heat technique now

Stick at it looks like the worst is by with
Moved more with the scrapper than with heat! The shell is very straight and clean. Just had a slight knock on the n/s/f corner. Think this has been a race car most of its life. I'll be glad to get this stage out of the way. Should have the Satchell bits welded in over Christmas and then trial fit the engine, box and manifold and see where the radiator fits.
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Old 16-12-2015, 10:32 PM   #57
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Try an air scraper off a compressor for the bigger areas. When I did my sunbeam I got the bulk off with this and then wire wheels. For the amount of effort/ mess/ time I wish I'd just got it dipped
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Old 16-12-2015, 11:07 PM   #58
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I know a guy got his E30 M3 dipped and swore never again. It removes every bit of factory sealer where all the
Panels are joined or overlapped like roof skin etc. 6 months after the car was painted it was rusting at the seams.
He sealed everything he could but it will never be like the factory.
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Old 17-12-2015, 06:00 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseldave View Post
I know a guy got his E30 M3 dipped and swore never again. It removes every bit of factory sealer where all the
Panels are joined or overlapped like roof skin etc. 6 months after the car was painted it was rusting at the seams.
He sealed everything he could but it will never be like the factory.
Not to mention considerably more expensive. It's nearly there.
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Old 17-12-2015, 09:36 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseldave View Post
I know a guy got his E30 M3 dipped and swore never again. It removes every bit of factory sealer where all the
Panels are joined or overlapped like roof skin etc. 6 months after the car was painted it was rusting at the seams.
He sealed everything he could but it will never be like the factory.
Easy enough to get everything sealed on a simple 60s car, but once you get onto CAD-designed monocoque's there's just too much that you couldn't get to without tearing it apart... Bet he was gutted.
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Old 18-12-2015, 07:21 PM   #61
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Having spent a few hours with a scraper on the floor pan, the shell will be getting sandblasting part 2 in the morning. Fingers crossed for this one. I also need to get some etch primer ready to stop it all turning into a rusty mess.
My welder mate is also popping back up in the morning with a view to getting the Satchell bits and seam welding done over Christmas. With a bit of luck the floor and bay could be in paint by the beginning of January.
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Old 19-12-2015, 06:41 PM   #62
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So here we go again!



All the scrapping was worth it. The floor pan has come up really well and is clean as a whistle.



Engine bay by comparison was a doddle. There's only a small amount of sealer under here and came out quite quickly.



And here's what's left after the process. The gazebo did a good job of containing the dust, but there is still a bit of a clean up to follow.



Monday will see the front end seam welded and the Satchell strengthening kit welded in. Will also be giving all the bare metal a coat of etch primer. All being well I should have some tinkering to do over Christmas now.

First race 16 weeks and counting. All we have to do is build a brand new car, shake it down, strip it again, paint it, rebuild it and be ready for Snetterton 2016.
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Old 20-12-2015, 11:25 PM   #63
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Better get cracking then. Progress looks awesome so far

100% put me off blasting my shell. Think I will stick to the grinder and some effort like the engine bay.
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Old 21-12-2015, 12:12 PM   #64
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Better get cracking then. Progress looks awesome so far

100% put me off blasting my shell. Think I will stick to the grinder and some effort like the engine bay.
Cheers. Worth it in the end, I think!
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Old 22-12-2015, 05:06 AM   #65
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No time to waste now the shell has been blasted. Luckily my mate Kev had finished for Christmas and was available to weld the Satchell kit in yesterday. First job was to align the top plates and then the down tubes. The down tubes needed a slight modification and then everything lined up.



Tops were bolted in place then tacked up.



After a bit more tack welding around the down tubes, the tops were seam and plug welded in.



Here's Kev on the other strut top.



Seam welded nicely. Helps to have good, clean metal.



Top mount plug welded and ground back.



After Kev had done all the welding which included seam welding the engine bay, I then set about getting a coat of etch primer on to stop any corrosion.



The engine bay is given a coat of etch after its seam welding too.





Next step is a bit of cutting out around the bay and in the floor pan for the strengthening plates and room for the throttle bodies. Also need to get the seating position sorted so the seat rails can go in. I'm also fitting Side stand tubes again and some uprated jacking points or save the sill flanges. Busy couple of days ahead then. Shame I've got to work as well.
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Old 22-12-2015, 10:23 AM   #66
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Looks great, still plenty of time to get it sorted. Any idea yet what gearing you will go for at Snetterton? That straight is no good for our cars
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Old 22-12-2015, 11:30 AM   #67
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Nice welding there! Looks like he knows his way round a MIG.
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Old 22-12-2015, 04:31 PM   #68
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Looks great, still plenty of time to get it sorted. Any idea yet what gearing you will go for at Snetterton? That straight is no good for our cars
Currently having a longer 5th fitted to our box that should be good for 125mph @ 8000rpm.

Last season, flat in 5th @ 8300 it was doing approx 113mph!

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Nice welding there! Looks like he knows his way round a MIG.
He certainly does, very pleased. He'll be doing some more for me over Christmas I think.
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Old 28-12-2015, 06:43 PM   #69
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Yea 113mph is no good for Snet, I was just short of hitting the limiter at 125mph when I raced there a few years ago. I was cringing in the car though with the revs so high for so long. Will be interesting to see what top speed you get in comparison.
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Old 29-12-2015, 09:14 PM   #70
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More bodyshell prep done yesterday. Concentrated on getting the Satchell floor plates ready for welding while I wait for a few other bits to arrive.



The passenger footwell had bars welded in to accept ballast weights. A. I don't need then and B. they were in the way of the strengthening plate. First I cut out the bars which will be used to mount the seat. This left the reinforcing plates those bars were welded to. I had to trim them back to gain clearance.
It also turned out that as the inner wishbone mount is double skinned and as such, the tubes that house the bolts had to be trimmed to fit in the recess.



This allowed the tube to sit in the recess properly, although I won't get it welded until the wishbone is bolted in place.

Here it is lined up and ground back.



Drivers side was considerably less involved, but still had to trim the outside tube and massage the floor pan so it sat right.



Then spent a bit more time cleaning the tunnel up so there were no edges.



Next job was the cut out for the fuel tank and pumps etc. I am looking to box the whole area and fit a bolt on cover to provide a fire wall for the whole fuel system. It will give room to fit everything and easy access for servicing and fueling.





Final job of the day was to remove the dummy filler cap from the quarter panel.



After taking a drill to the cap it came out.



I then cut out the mounting tabs and cleaned up the whole ready for plating.



One thing I noticed after cutting out for the throttle bodies was that the 3 layers of metal across the top of the bulkhead were obviously held together above where I had cut out. This will either be seam welded or have an additional plate welded across to reinforce this area. What I am looking into is a way to reinforce the bulkhead around the pedal box. We have noticed on the last car that this flexes quite a bit under heavy pressure on the brake pedal. I'm hoping to reduce this flex and strengthen the area. More on this when I work it out.
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Old 29-12-2015, 09:51 PM   #71
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I've done the same on the centre tunnel but I've been unhappy with how untidy it looks, I've been thinking to drill out the spot welds and remove the second skin but I'm worried if this will affect rigidity, is this why you left yours in?

Also, the chassis strengthening plates, is it as straightforward as bolting the tubes in place, welding them in and then plating over with the sheet?
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Old 30-12-2015, 08:47 AM   #72
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What gearbox are you using? I remember from the videos that 5th is crazy short?
New car is shaping up fantastic!
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Old 30-12-2015, 09:30 AM   #73
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I've done the same on the centre tunnel but I've been unhappy with how untidy it looks, I've been thinking to drill out the spot welds and remove the second skin but I'm worried if this will affect rigidity, is this why you left yours in?

Also, the chassis strengthening plates, is it as straightforward as bolting the tubes in place, welding them in and then plating over with the sheet?
The double skin section is primarily there to mount the seats on and the handbrake. On the last car I removed it completely. With a good cage there is more strength than this section provides anyway. Removing it completely just left a hole where the handbrake goes through the floor. I want to retain the handbrake position and harness loop where they were so just trimmed it back. Once it is plated for the seat mounts you won't see much of it at all as the seat will cover it.
As for the floor plates, they fit as you describe. My car had some existing plating that I had to removed before I could fit the Satchell plates.

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What gearbox are you using? I remember from the videos that 5th is crazy short?
New car is shaping up fantastic!
Same gearbox but with the longer 5th gear that comes with it. I had been led to believe that the 5th in the box was the long one! Wasn't until I looked at the spare gears that I realised they were quite a bit longer. So 125mph at 8000rpm should be possible compared to 113mph at 8300rpm!

Hoping to get back to the workshop tomorrow for some more grinding!!
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Old 30-12-2015, 10:26 AM   #74
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Thanks for the info, I've got weld in seat mounts but now remember the handbrake issue like you say, I'll have another about it. I want to tidy it up as I only run one seat so it's clear to see
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Old 30-12-2015, 11:02 AM   #75
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Thanks for the info, I've got weld in seat mounts but now remember the handbrake issue like you say, I'll have another about it. I want to tidy it up as I only run one seat so it's clear to see
Found this from the last build I did:



Good old Royal Mail. Couple more pieces of the puzzle arrived:





Just waiting on 2 more roll cage gussets. Also need to invest in a die grinder, a step drill and a 25mm hole saw to finish the sill tube installation. Screwfix, here I come.

Another delivery

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Old 10-01-2016, 02:13 PM   #76
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Managed to get a few more bits done over the last week or so while I wait for more bits to arrive.

Tacked the flitches in place for the cage and with the bits left over boxed the steering column to the dash bar.



Cage flitches in place.




Wednesday night saw the team reunited at the workshop to get the engine and gearbox in so we could check clearance of the exhaust manifold and throttle bodies.



As you can see, the throttle bodies, or more precisely, the air filter doesn't fit due to bulk head and strut base clearance issues.

The exhaust manifold fits now I have cut a chunk out of the front panel, however, the radiator was never going to fit. A quick call to Sandy and a 205 radiator was ordered with a view to going to remote header tank to allow room for the exhaust. This set up will also be self bleeding which is a plus.

Next thing to arrive though was the new dash. Will di Claudio has a new design of the dash we used last season which I ordered just before Christmas. It's a 2 piece design and before Matt asks it weighs approx 2.2kgs.







Also had my mate Kev round to look at fabricating a box and cover for the tank and fuel system. With a bit of luck that will be ready by next weekend along with lots of other little bits that need plating which I have to cut out.

Colin is currently putting the finishing touches to my front suspension kit and gearbox mount, which should be with me this week.

More to come.
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Old 14-01-2016, 08:15 PM   #77
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love progress threads like this keep up the good work, can't wait to see it finished
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Old 14-01-2016, 09:13 PM   #78
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Looks great? Ive just done the same, cut my slam panel, to accomodate manifold, and just fitted a 205, which in an S1, is still.. Very tight! What header tank will you run? Im going to run a 106 deisel header tank, because it seems to sit in an ideal place, and fits perfect due to it being for a 106.
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Old 14-01-2016, 09:26 PM   #79
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love progress threads like this keep up the good work, can't wait to see it finished
Me too!

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Looks great? Ive just done the same, cut my slam panel, to accomodate manifold, and just fitted a 205, which in an S1, is still.. Very tight! What header tank will you run? Im going to run a 106 deisel header tank, because it seems to sit in an ideal place, and fits perfect due to it being for a 106.
I've found an alloy one on eBay that should do the job. Should fit next to the brake master cylinder.
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Old 14-01-2016, 09:37 PM   #80
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i had the same air filter problem with my itbs on my saxo so just waiting for the welder to come and modify the bulkhead for me so i can get the filter in , i was looking at the satchell upper brace kit but thought it might catch the air filter so ill be interested in if.how you get it to fit
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Old 14-01-2016, 10:04 PM   #81
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i had the same air filter problem with my itbs on my saxo so just waiting for the welder to come and modify the bulkhead for me so i can get the filter in , i was looking at the satchell upper brace kit but thought it might catch the air filter so ill be interested in if.how you get it to fit
The satchell team think of most things, they have a modified strut brace to accomodate there sandy/satchel inlet and itbs.
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Old 15-01-2016, 04:46 PM   #82
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The satchell team think of most things, they have a modified strut brace to accomodate there sandy/satchel inlet and itbs.
I spoke to Colin about the strut brace issue and he suggested modifying the bar to clear the filter base plate. Having studied the photos of the engine bay on my phone, I came up with an alternative for which Colin is supplying me some brackets.



I'll be adding the additional brackets after flipping them 180 deg.

The main reason for refitting the engine was to check for clearance of the new manifold around the radiator and front panel. Basically, there isn't any room for the standard equipment. A quick call to Sandy and a 205 rad was ordered from Nissens. Then one night after work I went to the workshop to measure up.



As you can see, the front panel needed cutting and the rad was most easily accommodated much lower than the standard location. This was something I had been contemplating for a while to better use airflow and lower centre of gravity. This front panel has had a knock so I'll probably mock up with this one then transfer mods to another.



This is the final location we arrived at with the help of a large clamp. I have now removed the crossmember and will be fabricating a bolt on version to suit the new rad and oil cooler position.




Engine back out and shell mounted back on the jig.



Engine and box out for now, but likely to be in and out a few more times yet.

Been speaking to Colin over the last few weeks about various bits and pieces which he's been putting the finishing touches to. One item I needed for this weekend was the inner wishbone mounts so I can weld the floor plates in situ.


As good as his word, a small parcel arrived today.



I'm expecting quite a large delivery next week, but more on that when it arrives.
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Old 17-01-2016, 06:04 PM   #83
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Another 21 man hrs have gone into the shell this weekend. It's starting to take shape now with some of the important jobs complete.



Still stand plates marked out ready for cutting.



Cut, drilled and cleaned up ready for welding onto the sills.

On the last car running without a servo, I noticed quite a bit of flex in the bulk head when braking hard. Been contemplating various ways of strengthening this area and this is what I came up with. 2, 3mm plates running from the steering column bracket to the bulkhead. Here's the first one cut out and shaped.



And welded in place.



And the other side.





The other major job was to box the rear seat area to house the fuel tank and pumps etc.
Here is the box being drilled for its lid.



And tacked in place.



I made quite a few blanking plates for the bulkhead and other parts of the shell. Here is the fuel filler blanked off.



Had a bit of an issue with the inner wishbone mounts though. Offered up my new Satchell mounts and the holes didn't line up! On closer inspection you can see where the originals had been plug welded and new ones drilled. I can only imaging this was a stock hatch tweak to get better geometry on the standard wishbones? Fo now, I have plug welded the holes and will speak to Colin tomorrow about where to drill the new holes. This also explained why the floor strengthening kit wasn't fitting properly. Just glad I didn't weld it in place without the brackets.



And ground back flat.



Last job of today was to install jacking points into the sills. Don't like jacking on the sill flange or the floor so made these and passed them through the floor next to the inner sill so they sit proud of the sill flange.



And inside.



Next jobs are to weld in the Satchell floor plates, jacking points, master cylinder braces. I then want to make up some radiator support panels and a new front cross member for the new rad. Then I'll make some radiator support brackets. Should have the new brackets for the strut brace this week too.
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Old 17-01-2016, 07:55 PM   #84
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Oooh, naughty Stock Hatch tweaks!
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Old 18-01-2016, 01:21 PM   #85
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Funny you should mention that. The shell I'm working on has had the same rather crude mod to increase camber. Im going to weld a plate at the bottom to give it some strength as the two sets of holes are quite close to each other. Its coming on well though
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Old 18-01-2016, 08:33 PM   #86
Timberland
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Funny you should mention that. The shell I'm working on has had the same rather crude mod to increase camber. Im going to weld a plate at the bottom to give it some strength as the two sets of holes are quite close to each other. Its coming on well though
Thanks for that. Now the holes are plug welded and ground back I have a blank canvas the drill. Checked with Colin today and the brackets run parallel across the car, so I can now get them drilled and the floor plates welded in place.

Managed to get to the workshop for an hour tonight on the way home. Got the front of the car off the jig again and bolted on the front panel, some headlights and a clamp to simulate the cross member position. Also finished single skinning the front panel.





Then cut out some of the front panel for clearance and made up some mounts for the bottom of the radiator. The cross member will be 25mm tube welded to brackets that will bolt onto the bottom of the original crossmember supports.

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Old 22-01-2016, 06:32 PM   #87
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Had a few bits arrive from Mr Satchell today.

Here's a sneak peek of one of them:



More on this later!
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Old 22-01-2016, 08:52 PM   #88
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That photo is fantastic. I can't stop staring.
On another note, if you ever need a second driver......
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Old 22-01-2016, 10:39 PM   #89
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Hnnnggg. That looks lovely, much want!
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Old 24-01-2016, 07:50 PM   #90
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Well, apart from the seat rails and a mount for the oil cooler, all the welding and fab work is finished on the shell.

Here are some of the bits completed this weekend.



New cross member on lowered mounts.



Satchell gearbox mount.



Bulkhead strengthening.





Wishbone plates.





Did some swaging in a few areas.

Now have the sill stands in place too, so will get the shell off the jig and onto the stands and get the seating position finalised. Will then probably get the inside blasted and get the shell primed.
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Old 24-01-2016, 08:03 PM   #91
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Looks a fking beast!
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Old 24-01-2016, 08:11 PM   #92
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Looks a fking beast!
Cheers. There's now light at the end of the tunnel
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Old 24-01-2016, 08:33 PM   #93
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Bloody fantastic mate! Are you going to try jenveys new lightweight bodies?
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Old 24-01-2016, 09:00 PM   #94
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This looks amazing so far. Can't wait to see what else is in store.
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Old 25-01-2016, 08:33 PM   #95
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stunning fabrication work
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Old 25-01-2016, 08:47 PM   #96
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stunning fabrication work
Thanks for all the comments. All the product of a warped imagination. Big shout to Kev who did nearly all the welding. Couldn't of done it without his help and another pair of eyes.
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Old 25-01-2016, 08:51 PM   #97
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Looking great, its going to be a top spec car when its done.

I dont know if you have seen them yet but the TinTops regs have been updated :

Engine and Transmission
Original engine and gearbox type to be retained, internals are free, but no sequential gearboxes. If fuel-injected, throttle bodies are allowed, fuel-injected cars may run carburettors but NOT vice-versa. Fuel injection and carburettor type are free 'Original engine and gearbox type' means the same engine (block and head) and gearbox as was available from the factory in that body shape in period.
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Old 25-01-2016, 08:57 PM   #98
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Oh dear..... Do you think it's aimed directly at the pug guys going be or are other marquee at it too?

Time you all went for a c2 now then

Last edited by edbar; 25-01-2016 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 25-01-2016, 09:56 PM   #99
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Do you think it's aimed directly at the pug guys going be
Yes, without a doubt. I was quizzed on it at Oulton last year, and tried to remain grey'.
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Old 25-01-2016, 09:57 PM   #100
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Maybe aimed at things like 205 Mi16s as well? Mk.2 Fiestas with Duratecs?

I'm sure it's all your fault Mike.
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