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Old 02-10-2008, 01:46 PM   #1
Crooksey
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Crooksey's XSi - No compromise track car

Just picked up my XSI, pics will follow at the bottom, but here is my current todo list. Price Paid 650

Todo List
--
Engine rebuild: Re bored, skimmed, forged rods, high comp pistons, lightened and balanced crank + fly, new valve springs, ported + polished head.
New front discs, bigger, cross drilled with new 6 pot callipers
Overhaul drum brakes
Supersprint Exhaust
4-1 manifold
Bodywork - Full rub down, straighten all out and then respray in cherry red

All work to be done by me, other than Re boring + skim will have to be done by someone else, with the kit!

Done List
--
Wishbone with new poly bushes
New drop link anti roll bars.
Red HT Leads
Painted rocker cover
Painted wheels
Omp lower brace fitted
Interior Strip
Omp Upper Brace Fitted
Omp cage fitted
Engine Purchased

Images of the car when I got hold of it...









Getting started on the wishbone + camblet tommorow, stipping at the weekend.

Bit of a shit morning...



First of went to take the wheels of the car, passenger side came off fine, no problems at all.



Went to remove drivers side and the ordinary bolts were to sight that the wheel was spinning (whilst the car was on the ground), when i was undoing the bolts, im guessing the bolts were around 200nm tight. So loosened all of those, then went to remove the locking wheel bolt, it was so tight the locking wheel nut removal socket snapped. So i have to go to peugeot tomorrow and try and get a new removal tool.



So my next job was the rocker cover seal, replacing it, when I was removing it I noticed how lose one of the bolts was, thought nothing of it and removed the rocker cover.



Then took the oil breather plate out from the rocker cover, and noticed 1 spacer and 1 random washer and nut, this was a little confusing because there should just be two plastic spacers, due to the fact that the head gasket was replaced via a mobile mechanic, I figured he had just lost one of the spacers and used this nut as a substitute spacer, when I went to secure the rocker cover after replacing the seal one of the bolts went in fine (the one that goes into the standard spacer), the one that was going through the substitute spacer was just spinning, I for some reason thought this would be because the substitute spacer was spinning against the rocker cover. So went down the scrapyard to get a new spacer, scrapyard was shut, brilliant.



So i get back home and see if I have a spacer lying around anywhere, I don't, had another look at the cylinder head bolt and noticed that the fucker was sheared! Thought it seemed a bit loose!



So tomorrow going get new bolts, spacers and locking wheel nuts from peugeot, what a day!

Update: Wheel Refrub started..

Doing one wheel at a time, dont have a spare set and need to move the car round the drive..

Car has 5 alloys, started on the worst wheel (gonna be the spare)

Took me 3.5 hours to sand (by hand) this one wheel, its now in primer, painting after work tonight. No hints on the colour scheme, will be shown when all 5 wheels are done and on the car..

So for now, some random pics of the refurb..






Update: Stripping started..

Below was the car 1/2 way through today, it now has all carpet + all seats + all sound proofing removed, tomorrow is the dash, door cards, central locking and maybe heater matrix.

As you can see, my cat helped me alot, with out him I would never have been able to get it done, so shoutout to my cat Tango!








Mini update:
Lower arms (wishbones) off and am fitting new bushes and ball joints fitted.
Various engine bay parts painted

Purchases:
Red HT leads
Omp wheel
Omp lower brace
Omp upper brace

Wheel refrub should be finished in week or two (1 wheel at a time), then Ill give her a good clean and detail and put some pictures up.

A 106 on axle stands for a few weeks, seems to spend more time on em than off!

Changed the wishbone bushes and ball joints (poly race of course).

Went on a test drive and could then hear another knocking noise, drop links were fucked on the anti roll bar.

So ordered new ones, delivered within 2 hrs, removed the old ones (which were seized on, <3 mulgrips). Went to fit new drop links, wrong fucking parts. My dad commented on how the ball joints were the worst he had ever seen, so no wonder they were knocking!

So got correct drop links and refit, drive it and wow, amazing.

First time I drove it today with no suspension issues, so ragged the fook out of it.

Last edited by Crooksey; 02-10-2008 at 01:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:46 PM   #2
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Some pics of the work and wheelrufb:









The omp lower brace isn't the nicest thing to fit in the world

New parts came today in the post:

Oooo goodies



Whats inside....



Trecento OMP Suede Wheel
OMP Boss
OMP Upper strut brace
Free OMP baseball hat (<3 ybracing)

Few updates, cage has arrived!





Me being a tart.



Dash in..



Dash out...



Small update.

Taken complete rear loom out of car and cut it down, only wires on rear loom are:

No pic of cut loom, only full loom.



Rear lights
Rear fog
Fuel Pump

Removed loom that was in rear hatch as well as rear wiper.

Inside is all rubbed down ready for primer, then paint.

Cage is also painted

Cage will be in 4-5 days and pics will be up!
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:48 PM   #3
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Got my engine today

1.6 S2 Rallye engine that has covered 65k I am told.

Plans are..

Bottom end:
rebuild with steel crank
froged rods
qep lightened fly wheel
high comp pistons

Head:
New cam
Throttle bodies
Port + polish
new valves and springs

Pictures to come tommorow.

So an update, my engine stand is in the post, and before it arrives I don't want to-do to much work on the engine.

I had a brief inspection of it today and it looks to be in really good condition.

The clutch is new
Camblet is new
HT leads new
Spark Plugs look new

I also took the rocker cover off and the valves and cam (from what I can see) look absolutely mint!

None of the above really matters due to the extent of the rebuild I will be performing, but Its a good sign that it has been well looked after and should hold any surprises.

Now I only required the engine, but it came with an ECU and no loom, however when I went to collect it had what appeared to be a loom attached to it, the owner said "just some wires". SO I have a complete S2 rallye loom and ECU that I can sell, as I will be using my XSI loom and stand alone management.

A few pictures of today's inspection:







So I started stripping the engine down today, did as much as I can before my engine stand arrives.

Taken exhaust + Inlet manifolds of
Throttle body removed
Cylinder head off
Rockers off
Coil pack Off
Engine mount off
Drive shaft bracket off
Camblet + tensioner off
Flywheel off
Clutch Off

Still to-do tonight (after pub)

Cam out
Valves out

Then once my engine stand arrives I can strip the bottom end and send it away to be cleaned up, then rebuild it all with new performance parts upon its return.













Engine stand finally arived, here are some pics with it just been put on:




Ready to strip:



Will add more pictures tonight when fully stripped.

stuff done before work today:

Pistons + con rods out, all shells and bearings out.

Waterpump off

Oil Filter bracket off

All sensors removed



And what I looked like afterwards



After work today I'm going to remove the crank and clean the engine, make it look brand new

Engine now completely stripped, off to QEP on Monday to buy some goodies and get my cylinders and block face surfaced.





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Old 02-10-2008, 01:51 PM   #4
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Pistons cleaned, as im not sure whether to get high comp or not, so cleaned my current pistons.. I decided high comp, this was just so I could sell the pistons.

Before:



After:



Thanks mate, that's the reward, I really like the satisfaction of doing it all. Anyone can pay to have their car built for them.

FIA Battery Isolation Switch



Fuel pump on/off switch



LED Warning lights, low oil temp, rad fan on, high water temp, low oil pressure.



Switches for hazards, rear fogs etc



Engine Start Button



New Dash Being made, the aluminium will be painted black, and will have 6 gauges mounted, as well as the above









More parts arrived:





Hopefully re-plumbing the brakes this weekend.

So I was bored and decided to turn this:



Into:



Saving:



Thats a lot of excess weight! Will get pictures up tomorrow when my new loom is covered in insulation tape. Ran out with 1/4 left to wrap!

And also doing my dash loom tomorrow. So will have saved shed loads of weight, and only have the wires I need.

Tools used, pliers, hammer and screwdriver.

..

Hammer and screw driver I hear you say? Yes, those darn ISO connectors are stubborn

Last edited by Crooksey; 02-10-2008 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:52 PM   #5
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Thanks mate, I really appreciate people taking them time to look at what im doing and comment on it. No-one I know really knows the extent of what im doing to the car they all just say "im doing a pimp my ride thing", which really annoys me!

New loom I finished off today, in yellow for kicks:



How my dash loom looked a few hours ago:



How it looks now, all unwrapped:



Then tomorrow I will be cutting it down to size

Thanks mate, appreciate all of the comments, aiming for around 180bhp at the fly.

New dash loom:


Saving:


In car testing:



It started first time, no issues at all. Off to work now, but after work Ill be wrapping the new loom up in insulation tape.

A morning of swearing later, and my heater matrix is out.

Had to remove the Inlet manifold to gain access to the pipes, what a pig of a job!













So today I started removing my front ARB bushes, ready for some powerflex ones which I purcahsed of member Olee, after removing the front ARB bushes, I decided to remove the ARB itself and paint it to match the wishbones, this meant removing the exhaust.

So I did, then held it in place by a special tool:



Here is the front ARB and brackets after removal:





Then I painted them:





And then these came in the post:

Spoox solid rear wishbone mounts, I ordered silver ones as they were cheaper, they were out of stock, so got the red ones for the same price.



Arriving tommorow are my poweflex front middle bushes for my wishbones and my rear beam bushes and rebuild kit.

Last edited by Crooksey; 02-10-2008 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 02-10-2008, 02:03 PM   #6
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Wow! That is a huge amount of work!
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Old 02-10-2008, 02:06 PM   #7
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That last post is the work I carried out today, stripping most of the car down next weekend to underseal it.
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Old 02-10-2008, 02:07 PM   #8
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Thats a top read mate
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Old 02-10-2008, 03:50 PM   #9
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Good project thread, alot of work done already!

Mine is in a similar state outside, dash out, ready to spray insides!

Do I spy the black tar left in footwells, but painted red? Get it out weights a ton
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:50 PM   #10
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good project mate You've got the same cage as me its shit lol mine didnt line up at all
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Old 02-10-2008, 07:58 PM   #11
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/\/\ lol's "its shit"

i like what your doing... if you havnt already get your self on dyno's xsi thread.. hes already done what your doing now to a red xsi,

where did you get the solid read wishbone mounts from?
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Old 02-10-2008, 09:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineo444 View Post
where did you get the solid read wishbone mounts from?
The wishbone mounts are from SPOOX as mentioned "Spoox solid rear wishbone mounts"
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Old 02-10-2008, 09:43 PM   #13
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Curl, im removing the tar when I seem weld the chassis.
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Old 03-10-2008, 05:25 AM   #14
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Great read and excellent progress! There arent many builds that pay as much attention to detail when looking at all the things that can be done cheaply or for free. I particularly like the loom stripping you did, I did exactly the same with my XSi too!

Might I suggest, as areas for further weight reduction, the various bracketry that is left behind from the stripping. And remounting the ECU and other things in the engine bay allows more brackets to be removed. Youll save a few kilos from this alone. Take out the tar proofing in the footwells. Heat it with a hair dryer till very warm (not hot) and use a paint scraper to take it out. Its not hard, but makes a bit of a mess that cleans up with some petrol easy enough.

Using the car in wet weather? If not, remove all the door and boot seals.

Dont forget to strip the loom inside the doors, replace the electric mirrors and electric window with manual items, remove the central locking etc.

Im sure you have it all in hand
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:09 AM   #15
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Well the plans are a lot more serious than that....

Perspex windows all round, apart from windscreen
Doors getting stipped, so i I will be grinding out all the metal from them
Grinding off all unused brackets
Race battery and ECU to be mounted in passenger footwell
Stip the shell, have it acid dipped or media blasted
Seem weld the whole chassis
Then rebuild the car, only with the parts I need.
Looking at fibreglass rear hatch and bonnet

And as mentioned all ready the tar from the foot wells is being removed, I all ready removed it from the boot and that was a pain in the arse!
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:59 AM   #16
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Awesome plans, sounds like you have the knowledge and tools, and arent afraid to use them!

I had a race battery in the passenger footwell of my old XSi. Its a great mod, and it always surprises me that people are often willing to spend £500 on a carbon bonnet, for a 5kg weight saving, but wont buy a £100 battery saving them more weight in the process, and relocating another bunch of weight to a more useful place!

I only had a fibreglass bonnet (definately make sure you look for one with reinforcement under the bonnet) and perspex rear quarter windows, but would have loved to go the whole hog with the rest of the car like you are. Itll be a right beastie!

Just to help ease your mind, the footwell tar comes off alot easier than the rear arch tar
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:15 AM   #17
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Thanks, wasn't looking forward doing that rear arch tar again!

Im trying to get it ready for next years track season, so im spending around 5-6 hours a day to get it ready and run in before the tracks open next year!

Im trying to move as much weight as possible to the passenger foot well to balance the car, e.g. ECU, battery and fire extinguisher.

Thanks for all the comments, really appreciate them.
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curl666 View Post
The wishbone mounts are from SPOOX as mentioned "Spoox solid rear wishbone mounts"
ah yeah sorry missed that bit,

how come you are not 16v'ing it?
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:05 PM   #19
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seriously good work mate! Looks like you are doing a proper job too which is nice to see more pics please!
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:43 PM   #20
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ah yeah sorry missed that bit,

how come you are not 16v'ing it?
Because everyone and their mother has a 16V engine. Its an easy way to get more bhp, plus I prefer the 8V engines, alot stronger and can take a lot more "punishment" than a 16V engine.

When my engine is built it will able to go round a track revving its nuts off, giving a great power delivery and probably never fail. I found the 16V engines not to be as strong as the 8V ones.

The engine is going to be mental and I can put money on it wiping the floor with most N/A 16V's.

Work done today...

New painted front ARB on





And juts a picture of the car in its current state:



Next week, rear beam rebuild. front struts rebuild and plumb the brake lines and bias valve in.
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Old 03-10-2008, 06:11 PM   #21
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Forget the hair dryer for removing that tar stuff, get a blow torch!

I tied the fuel lines out of the way, heat the stuff with blow torch til it gives a lil bubble and you can work the one edge all the way, almost pull the tar off in a sheet! Took me about 10mins!
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:29 PM   #22
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i see, keeping team 8v ALIVE! lol
did you get a weight before you started stripping? would be good too see how much all that stuff weights as a whole.
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:06 PM   #23
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Quality build Crooksey, good to see things being done properly, and 8v is definately the way forward
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineo444 View Post
i see, keeping team 8v ALIVE! lol
did you get a weight before you started stripping? would be good too see how much all that stuff weights as a whole.

No, was completley standard when I started, so I can use the standard figures, then when all the work is finished ill get it on a weigh bridge.


Quote:
Quality build Crooksey, good to see things being done properly, and 8v is definately the way forward
They are simply stonger engines and will be able to take the amount of abuse I will be giving it.

Quote:
Forget the hair dryer for removing that tar stuff, get a blow torch!

I tied the fuel lines out of the way, heat the stuff with blow torch til it gives a lil bubble and you can work the one edge all the way, almost pull the tar off in a sheet! Took me about 10mins!
This is how I did the rear and how I intend todo the front.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:27 PM   #25
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Are you going to have a passenger seat?

Im tempted to just chop the dash in half like yours, will be looking forward to seeing the results of the custom centre section!
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crooksey View Post
Because everyone and their mother has a 16V engine. Its an easy way to get more bhp, plus I prefer the 8V engines, alot stronger and can take a lot more "punishment" than a 16V engine.

When my engine is built it will able to go round a track revving its nuts off, giving a great power delivery and probably never fail. I found the 16V engines not to be as strong as the 8V ones.

The engine is going to be mental and I can put money on it wiping the floor with most N/A 16V's.
Excellent attitude! Good luck with the rebuild
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:27 PM   #27
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If youre looking for some more weight to lose form the front end, you can try the following...

Remove the rear washer jet from the boot lid. Pull the hose that used to feed it from out of the OS roof rail. Mount a 'boot mounted' washer bottle in the drivers side rear quarter panel (i bolted mine to the old seat belt reel bracket) and attach the old rear washer hose to that new pump. Now you can remove the old washer bottle and motor (and the bar they used to attach to) from the front of the car and throw it away, and just connect the old rear washer hose, to the bonnet sprayer hose. Now you have a fully functioning washer for MOT time, and (assuming your washer bottle was full) have removed another 6kg from the front of the car! Of course, now youve stripped the rear wiring loom you might need to run one more trigger wire for the new motor down there.

Also, the bumpers can be 'gutted' of their internal reinforcement, you can cut down the front slam panel a little bit.

Hope this helps
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:13 AM   #28
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Are you going to have a passenger seat?

Im tempted to just chop the dash in half like yours, will be looking forward to seeing the results of the custom centre section!
No, I decided to spend my money on one good seat and one set of really good 6 point harnesses, instead of getting two half decent seats and harnesses. When its done if people want to see how fast it is, I will let them drive it (as long as I know they arent going to wreck it).

The custom centre section is now finished, just havent had the time to add blog entries for it. The dash is now 70% lighter than it was.

I have sprayed it matt black to reduce the glare, but I think I will have it flocked as one of the last things before the track season.

Quote:
Remove the rear washer jet from the boot lid. Pull the hose that used to feed it from out of the OS roof rail. Mount a 'boot mounted' washer bottle in the drivers side rear quarter panel (i bolted mine to the old seat belt reel bracket) and attach the old rear washer hose to that new pump. Now you can remove the old washer bottle and motor (and the bar they used to attach to) from the front of the car and throw it away, and just connect the old rear washer hose, to the bonnet sprayer hose. Now you have a fully functioning washer for MOT time, and (assuming your washer bottle was full) have removed another 6kg from the front of the car! Of course, now youve stripped the rear wiring loom you might need to run one more trigger wire for the new motor down there.
This has been done allready, well half of it, I am just waiting to have the time to fabricate a new mount for the rear washer bottle, just have so much to-do at the moment! Thanks for all the extra information, really great reciving new ideas and suggestions in my progress blog, other than just criticisams like places where I have posted it elsewhere.
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:09 PM   #29
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What a great read and its nice to see you're sticking with the 8v

As for people struggling with the rear arch tar I had both sides done within 15mins The footwells were a fucker though!
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:09 PM   #30
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Thanks, most people think im crazy spending all this money on 8V, that would be around 95% of the people I talk to who have any idea of the pros and cons of single/twin cam.

0-100 the engine will be working well and fast, thats all I need from it, I just need it to hit a low top speed quickly, be able to stop quickly and handle well at speed. 1/4mile times are nothing, its all about lap times

Tommorow ill be removing front and hopefully get more axel stands and a high lift jack for my birthday this week ( so can remove rear beam ).
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:22 PM   #31
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its a good read this.. makes me want to get the rallye naked and slagg it,
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:16 PM   #32
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I was going todo this to a rallye, but I like the rallye so much I couldnt bare to rip it to shreds.

After the car has been seem welded and acid dipped, it will be re-srpayed in cherry red, rally arches, colour coded bumpers and new decals, so it will look like a run of the mill cherry red rallye
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:52 PM   #33
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So anyone who has taken a gearbox off before will know how easily the clutch and flywheel bolts corrode and arent that great.

So instead of using standard clutch and flywheel bolts on my new engine, I managed to source these bolts from swampy, very impressed with them. Nearly all the bolts on my car have been replaced with uprated items, but these are my favourite ones so far, not sure why, just are

Old ones, poor picture:



New flywheel bolts..



New clutch to flywheel bolts..



New soild mounts pressed on today, still waiting on front middle bushes to arrive:


Last edited by Crooksey; 06-10-2008 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:59 PM   #34
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This is going to be amazing! Love all the pic and updates!
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:02 PM   #35
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Tomorrow ill post a detailed guide of removing my front struts and under sealing the arches.

My coil over set-up and solid top mounts should be here soon, really excited!
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:51 AM   #36
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looks like some great effort there mate keep it up
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:58 AM   #37
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Progress...

New tool:







New parts:







Work Done:









Struts also off!
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Old 14-10-2008, 07:18 PM   #38
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Progress, pictures speak a thousand words, with help from a monster jack...

















Seem welding begins thursday!
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Old 13-11-2008, 12:22 PM   #39
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So whilst I was taking apart the gearbox, I thought to myself "dam my coil pack looks ugly, so I decided to clean it, then I decided to clean everything else.

The I decided cleaning wasnt good enough, so this is how I am at the moment...

Before:



1st Coat:



Will get upclose pictures tommorow after 3rd coat.

Pictures of head + gearbox refurb/upgrade coming tommorow

Day off today, so have been on a road trip.

First stop, southern rebore, dropped the block off to have cylinders honed, face surfaced and the crank re-ground.

Then I arrived in engine heaven...



To get my lightened and balanced flywheel, as well as have a good chat with Matt about my monster 8V engine, I checked out the forged pistons and rods I will be ordering, as well as pricing everything up etc, that will be ordered in the next few months, Matt said "so its going to be a bit larey then" and we both agreed that bodies > boost.

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Old 13-11-2008, 04:40 PM   #40
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Think of the extra weight of that paint!

Had wondered where the updates had gone, how much did the flywheel set you back?
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Old 13-11-2008, 06:00 PM   #41
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About 130 + vat, but got a deal as I will be spending like 3grand in a few months time down at QEP lol.
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Old 13-11-2008, 09:02 PM   #42
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3,000

I think beast of an 8v might be an understatement, put me down on the list to have a go, PLEASE
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Old 13-11-2008, 09:16 PM   #43
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Forged Crank
Forged H Rods
Cylinders oversized to make 1599cc
High comps
L+B flywheel
block skimmed to increase CR
rod bolts that can withstand 11k rpm

Head:
Full race cam - ground to order and specification
QEP big valve head
Uprated valves, retainers
Head skimmed

Management:
KMS, with data logging and lamda display screen

Misc:
Rebuild Kit

^^ What im ordering at QEP in a few months
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Old 17-11-2008, 07:45 PM   #44
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Block is back baby!

Engine will be assembled + painted this weekend!

Tommorow Night I am arranging all the parts neatly out on a table, ready for quick assembly.



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Old 17-11-2008, 10:56 PM   #45
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Have you got your forged goodies to go in?
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[FONT="Century Gothic"][COLOR="White"]Rocking out with my VTR out:rolleyes:[/COLOR][/FONT]
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Old 18-11-2008, 06:52 AM   #46
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This engine only needs to last a few months, need to get the car running so I can test out all the suspension and brake upgrades I have made, then when im happy with that, I will rebuild the engine with monster internals.
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Old 23-11-2008, 04:59 PM   #47
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Look at these bad boys..

S1 inlet + throttle body

S1 head, skimmed, cleaned and ready to fit

BWRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP!

GTI-6 master cylinder and fixed rear window seals on the way, building engine sunday.





Have a guess what I am doing tomorrow...

All clean, labelled and ready for assembly.

Thats what I call organisation








This also arrived ages ago..



Crank in
Rods + pistons in

Roast dinner now, after dinner putting seals in, oil pump and sump.

Pictures speak 1000 words..

Crank in...



Pistons in..







All covered up..


Last edited by Crooksey; 23-11-2008 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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