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Old 30-07-2013, 09:30 PM   #1
af1
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S1 rallye

Having had numerous 306's I ended up with a stripped track gti-6

As a kid I was weaned on 80's-90's pugs!

My brother had a 205 GT, my dad a 309 xsi .. Neighbour had a few 205gti's and I was present when some close friends of the family (who were twins) had a brand new 306 xrdt in 1993 and I was present the day they went to the dealer to swap it in for two separate 106s a silver xs and a red rallye!

The rallye was Even used as my mums wedding car!




Anyway about 18 years after that photo was taken, after a few times of coming close to buying one I finally got my own rallye!

It needs some work, but it totally worth saving!
81k with original bill of sale and a fair bit of paperwork..

It was obvious from the advert that the roof and bonnet need painting and it needs a new drivers door! And let's not even talk about the towbar it had fitted!!!!

Oh and someone has brushed black hammerite over the wheels!



However, all is not lost because the garage was next to a light railway and we got to see Thomas



Booked it in for an MOT this morning 30/07/13


And it failed:
Number plate bulb
Directional tyre on wrong way (probably from painting the wheels a crap colour)

Rusty O/s Sill


Not too bad, the mot tester even said it was a cool little car

Currently the hunt is on for a decent welder to sort this out, I don't want no mot patches!

I got the car back to base and fitted my first purchase (I bought it before I bought the car)


Sounds awful but it's all about standard spec!

Then I spent 40mins stripping the carpet out! And removing the tow bar
I forgot how simple these cars are to work on!!!

In no time at all I had the carpet out and the drivers seat bolted In

I only found 20p doing this which is a bit crap

Plan is to Hoover, jet and scrub the carpet and refit





I thought these cars had less / no sound deadening?
This was preto heavy and wet and smelly



Car looks pretty solid apart from rust around near that sill





At least it's still movable

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Old 30-07-2013, 09:49 PM   #2
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Hi, nice start to a blog, keeping it standard, and a great reason to buy a rallye.
Shame you only found 20p whilst removing the seats!
I fount a 1 coin in mine :-)
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Old 30-07-2013, 10:27 PM   #3
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Nice project, I was watching this on eBay! Good to see its gone to someone on here I'll keep an eye on this!
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Old 30-07-2013, 10:39 PM   #4
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Hi, googled reg of "wedding car" . showed up in list of entrants in an endurance rally
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/15675294...09_SeededEntry
Few other rallies in there too.
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Old 30-07-2013, 10:58 PM   #5
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I tracked it down a few years ago and was offered chance to buy however it has been pretty converted into a rally car! It's ace but was out of my price range at the time

I got some pics of it somewhere
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Old 14-08-2013, 04:28 PM   #6
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I have been working on this... There will be an update soon!
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Old 15-08-2013, 10:40 AM   #7
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looks really good, will look alot better after you've tidyed it up.
your lucky in my rallye i've got no sound deading under the carpet
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #8
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Was watching this on eBay too - was being sold in Northiam iirc? Just down the road from me!
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:38 AM   #9
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Yes it was from Northiam.

Progress has been slow unfortunately, mostly due to modern life.

I will upload some pictures, but so far i have stripped down the n/s rear arch of the factory fitted underseal and gave it a respray of underseal... before realising i did not like it. So ended up stripping it all back again! I spent time cleaning up any surface rust and then treating all bare metal.

I brush painted the Arch with This Stuff I probrably should have sprayed it but im having to work in a council garage so have no power :/

Apart from the rot on the o/s rear sill, i am happy with how relatively rot and rust free this car is!
looking at other peoples threads it seems these cars are prone to rust!! (which surprises me as i have had many 306's and none of them seemed to rust)

I have a little 106 Quiksilver as a run-about and it seems a capable car and makes me want to get the Rallye Finished quicker, but id rather take my time and do a good job

Can anyone recommend somewhere to refurbish my Steel Wheels? should I look at Powdercoating or just spraying?

Alan
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Old 13-05-2014, 01:18 AM   #10
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So
What have I done in a year?

Not much at all!


This was my n/s wheel arch

at first i just gave it a clean and sprayed it with some of this stuff and it looked, well it looked awful



So i stripped it all back, and removed the factory under seal to see if there was any rust behind it, fortunately there wasn't much, just a bit of surface rust! never the less i coated it in www.rust.co.uk's FE-123 Rust Converter



Then i brush painted it with www.rust.co.uk's Epoxy-Mastic Rust Proofing Chassis Paint





As you can see it looks pretty brush painted but apparently this stuff is hard as nails and prevents rust very well, there are numerous articles about it. I seem to have a fairly rust free example and wish to keep it that way. It can be used as either a base or a top coat, I would like it a bit smoother so might look into spraying a extra couple of coats onto it so it has a nice smooth appearance but the general advice from many forums is to brush on two coats for the best protection

If anyone has any previous knowledge of this stuff or rust proofing cars then please let me know! I will always gladly listen. My plan for this year is to sort out any rust and under seal the car. hopefully if i pull my finger out i can have this car MOT'd (albeit with VERY scruffy paintwork) by the end of the summer!

Also forgot to add that I did a bit of shopping;
I got a replacement Drivers Door
Replacement Rear Bumper
and a service kit for the engine, including a cambelt kit

again, just need to find the time to crack on!

Last edited by af1; 13-05-2014 at 01:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 17-06-2014, 11:52 AM   #11
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Hey a bit of an update
The legendary Neb off this very forum very kindly sorted out my rear sill! It looks as though the entire rear 3/4 is a replacement panel, hence why it has rusted


After that, I got it back home
And started some rust busting

The sill tv the drivers door was blistering and bubbling
I started sanding it back and found a lot of filler
There was a bit of rust which was all ground back, it went to the underside of the car
So all bad metal was removed then lashed with some rust converter





Then came the time
To clean up the o/s rear arch
With the n/s arch I did everything by hand with chisels and a pants 12v drill and a wire wheel! It took ages and looked horrible, was horrible to do and not helped by the fact I has sprayed schutz in there first

With the o/s I used one of these


Poly carbide disc or clean and strip disc
It made light work of stripping it, I still had to chisel a lot of the underseal that had been brushed on
I softened the whole area with cheap b&q paint stripper and it made light work of the entire area! When I got it back to clean metal (fortunately there was no rust at all here) I applied a coat of rust converter for good measure then brush painted a coat of epoxy mastic paint ensuring I loaded up any areas where panels join.
I will be be applying another coat by hand then seam sealing, probably with something like tigerseal, the bits where panel join. Hopefully once I get a gun for my compressor a couple of coats will be sprayed on just to tidy it up a bit.







This is where I am at currently

I will be getting some
Bilt-hamber dynax s50 to spray in all cavities and box sections. Fortunately it's quite warm so it should have nice seepage into all the tight spaces and gaps

This is how it looks at the moment


Oh and a progress shot!
Looks like my jack has been nicked from my garden (along with a spare battery) so
I apologise for the terrible scissor jack supporting the car! Rest assured I did not get into the arch at any time.. Just my arms and let's face it, we all know arms are incredibly over rated so losing one would not be a major ball ache

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Old 18-06-2014, 06:56 AM   #12
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Thanks for the kind words Al.

Nice solid shell now, just needs some paint and she'll be mint.

Get a new jack and some stands!
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:21 PM   #13
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i have since sprayed all the box sections with the dynax s50, all in the front, the back, the sills, chassis legs.. basically anywhere i could get the nozzle!!

I have purchased some axle stands,

so far the wheel arches have been brush painted with two coats of rust busters epoxy mastic 121, Tonight i went over all the seams in the wheel arch with some tiger seal, which i then neatened up with a gloved finger

whilst i wait for that to set over night, i applied some bilthamber deox gel to some of the rusted parts on the rear of the underneath. (seeing as i feel safe to go under it now!)
I have wrapped them in cling film to give them a chance to work overnight.

Once the tiger seal has dried i will be putting on an extra coat of the Epoxy Mastic 121 and then looking into something to spray over it to look a bit more presentable, I am thinking 3m stone guard? can any one suggest what products would be best.. basically i DO NOT want this car rusting on me, but i also would like a presentable underside. I will be applying the tiger seal to all sections where there are body joins on the underneath.


Also as you can see from the pics, my wheels look awful! i am tempted to just take them to a pro to sort out, however there is the temptation to do them myself. I am having a tough time removing all the paint, is there any products anyone can suggest?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:27 PM   #14
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Sounds like you are using the same catalogue of products i am epoxymastic 121 followed with a load of bilt hamber stuff

3M do an overpaintable stonechip in schutz cans but you will need to use a compressor to put it on! Can get it in black too so you wouldn't need to overpaint unless you want gloss, but if you go for the body schutz (which is similar) you can't overpaint it and I don't think it ever fully dries. If you can get 3M stuff in a rattle can go for that if you can't get hold of a compressor.

As for the wheels, could try nitromors to strip it off, or just sand/wire wheel it. Personally I would get them blasted and powdercoated but obviously that costs... probably about 50 a wheel. Once done you can use some white tigerseal and your gloved finger to get a nice neat bead in the seam where they start rusting!
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:24 AM   #15
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Cheers Matt!
Fortunately I own a compressor so I just need to get the schutz gun and some of the 3m stuff! I think with a bit of paint on top of that I should prevent rust!

I don't fancy a wet finish underseal as I have been looking at too many fords at shows with their sexy clean arches.

Anyway, I did a bit more work on the underside.

I have been chiselling, clean and stripping, wire brush on a grinder, wire brush by hand and heating the underside of the boot floor, i managed to get a lot of it to shiny steel/pitted steel, in some tight corners I have struggled to get anywhere, any seams where I can get the paint brush, I have put in some
Of the rust 123 and loaded all joints with the stuff.. I dropped the rear beam for easy access. I will be painting the exhaust heat shields too. Do I need to use a high temperature paint?

I spent all day just stripping however I have a bit of time off work soon so I will be applying a couple
Of coats of the epoxy mastic by hand then tigerseal around joints. Then it will be time to work my way to the front of the car.

Here are a few pics of my adventure in rust


Looks clean

here you can see the surface rust just starting to eat at the 106, there were various places like this on the underside


Applying the rust 123
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:08 AM   #16
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I've got some brush able high temp Hammerite in silver that would do the job on the heat shields.

That bud of mine with the paint shop in faversham could blast your wheels or as you have a compressor you could make your own blast cabinet out of a old plastic box? Easy enough to do with some tank tape.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:01 AM   #17
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I shall see you during the week neb if that's ok? I wouldn't mind blasting them myself you know! I'll look into making a blast cabinet!
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Old 27-11-2014, 05:06 AM   #18
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More progress.

Unfortunately my 306 rallye has been taking up the most of my budget! (Budget of 0)

After stripping and treating all the rust on the underside of the boot
Floor, I have managed to get a coat of paint on the underside. Again loading up all seals and joints with the epoxy mastic.


Next I I am going to use tigerseal as a seam sealer around all the joints then a couple more coats on top of that.

Im currently waiting for the 3m 00880 to arrive.. This stuff looks amazing on arches and the underside. Unfortunately it is really expensive but.. I hate rust!
http://catalogue.3m.eu/en_eu/eu-aad/...e_Sealer~08800

Then it's new rear axle time and the back of the car (underneath) will be done!!
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Old 27-11-2014, 07:18 AM   #19
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Looking good Al.

I dunno if I'd use tiger seal as seam sealer might be a bit OTT and not flexible enough. body and paint supplies down the road from me do those tins of brush able seam sealer for not a lot.

What paint did you use?
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Old 27-11-2014, 08:12 AM   #20
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Nice work Al!

I'm hoping you're wrong about the tiger seal cracking Neb, I've used it all over mine :/ pretty sure it's fine as it came recommended by loads of the guys over on the mig welding forum, but time will tell I guess!

As for the 3m sealer, it's brilliant stuff... Expensive if you use it all over but I only used 2 bags for the whole front end of mine, and I had some spare, 1 bag was more than enough for all the seams on the underside of the boot floor on my sister's saxo, so unless you plan on covering the whole underside it shouldn't need too many! Also, it needs a special gun to spray it... I'm guessing you ordered it already, but if not, it's about 45 iirc so you are more than welcome to borrow mine if you want!
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Old 28-11-2014, 07:25 AM   #21
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Those guys over there know what they are talking about so go for it. I would have though it was a bit OTT because it's an adhesive rather than a seam sealer.
The tins of brushable are about a tenner.

So what paint did you both use? Or is that what you mean by the 3M gear? Wondering what to use on the kit car.
POR 15 keeps coming up.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:46 PM   #22
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It's the epoxy mastic from rust.co.uk

Have a good there are loads of reviews all over the internet, seems like nobody can't say a negative word on it!

Yeah I used the tigerseal following advice from the migwelding forum. Seems bizarre but kind of makes sense... If that makes sense
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:33 PM   #23
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Aye, epoxymastic 121 for me too! Apparently epoxy paint chalks if its exposed to UV so its best to overpaint, but i dont have any first hand experience of that... regarding POR15, a lot of people seem to rate it, but then others hate the stuff. From what i could find it seems like it works well on blast cleaned metal, but if you paint it on a reasonably smooth surface (i.e. just keyed) it can peel off in sheets! I've got no long term proof yet, but epoxymastic seems to do the job pretty well, and the only chip i got in it was when i accidentally knocked the car with the welder :/ There is some speculation that it's tinted and rebranded 'jotun' paint, so the same stuff can be had a bit cheaper, but that is marketed for use on boats so pretty sure it will be good for our cars

Tigerseal is a polyurethane based sealer, not specifically an adhesive - it dries nicely in any case, and a tube was only about 8 off ebay
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:30 AM   #24
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AF1, I almost bought this Rallye myself!

The towbar was an interesting addition, but it looked pretty solid underneath as I recall.

How you getting on with your project?
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