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Old 25-09-2012, 10:20 PM   #1
hsustyle
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Hsustyle's Cherry S1 Rallye 'Skip Brown Roadspeed'

Sold my 306 Gti-6 to a friend and picked this up a few weeks ago.

It's one of a few Series 1s to have had the Skip Brown Roadspeed conversion and the spec is imprelusive for a lil road car.

spec when I bought it-
Engine-
1.3 8v Rallye engine
full rebuilt with
1294 Bottom End with Pocketed notch cut pistons
triple angle valve seats
Skip Brown Ported + polished head
Piper 285 Cam AX Gt 'rally' spec
lightened & balanced flywheel
new Valero clutch
Piper Vernier Pulley
Heatwrapped Raceland 4-2-1 manifold
2" GrpN Peugeot sport System decat
ram air induction kit

New headgasket
thermostat
oil filter
uprated fuel filter
resealed sump
full service
spark plugs
Head bolts
waterpump

transmission-
Peugeot Sports ratio gearset + S1 Rallye Final drive
New diff bearing
New Input shaft bearings
New output shaft bearings
Later Quiksilver casing with anti 5th to reverse mech
Later Quiksilver selectors mech
New diff oil

New driveshafts
Skip Brown Quickshift -40% throw on gearchange- awesome feel
Kam Racing Linkages

Suspension-
Custom Skip Brown 155lb Roadsport Front Springs -30mm
fully adjustable Avo Dampers front and rear
Standard Rear TBs/ARB
New drop links & track rod ends
Rebuilt rear beam using OE parts
new front wheel bearings
omp lower strut brace

Brakes-
Braided lines
new front discs
omp fast road pads in refurbished Rallye calipers
saxo Vts Brake servo- 1.5inches bigger than Rallye

CURRENT SPEC-
New spec



Engine-
1.6 16v TU5J4 1998 Vts single plug
New Luk Clutch kit & release bearing
polished throttle body
Orange banded injectors
Heatwrapped Raceland 4-2-1 manifold with thermotec exhaust wrap coating/sealant
Raceland enclosed induction kit with Green cotton filter
2" GrpN PeugeotSport System decat
New cambelt kit, idler, tensioner & waterpump
New headgasket
New oil filter
Slimline fan
uprated fuel filter
full service
New spark plugs
Unlocked single plug Ecu
New stainless steel cam cover bolts, exhaust manifold bolts and throttle body bolts.

transmission-
Peugeot Sports ratio gearset + 1.4 Xsi Final drive
New output shaft bearings
New gearbox oil

New driveshafts
Skip Brown Quickshift -40% throw on gearchange- awesome feel

Suspension-
Custom Skip Brown 155lb Roadsport Front Springs -30mm
fully adjustable Avo Dampers front and rear
New top mounts and bearings
New droplinks & track rod ends
Standard Rear TBs/ARB
Rebuilt rear beam using OE parts
polybushed rear beam, anti roll bar bushes and wishbones
new front wheel bearings
Omp lower strut brace
No rust at all, all been welded, cut out re welded with re enforcing plates, sealed and resprayed. Solid shell!
Brakes-
266mm Lucas calipers (306 hdi)
Braided lines front
New copper rear brake lines
saxo Vts Brake servo- 1.5inches bigger than Rallye


I've probably missed a few other bits.


And yes,it may well be 16v'd soon if it persists to throw running issue after running issue at me.

So I had my first breakdown.. on the way home from picking it up. A sparkplug had worked itself loose and was making a right racket! No tools and 3hrs later on the M25 I was on my way again.

I bought the car with a faulty Idle control valve,or so the previous owner and myself thought.. occasional stalling when approaching junctions etc.
Simon gave me 20 back for a Icv and i was on my way.






Petrol gauge is going crazy. Light is always on and the needle steadily drops down when the car is moving and on throttle,even the slightest bit.

!aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh f@%!%!*@&@!?+@!&!%%17@%!+!?'+!&

Deep breath.
idle geeks step up please..
Cold start idle is good,steady and smooth.a lil high at around 1100-1200 for a minute or two till warm.
jerky and boggy/ hesitant up to say 3k revs then smooth and pulls strong.

After a mile or two the revs will drop to 500-600rpm when foot is on the clutch and approaching junction,then recovers to 1k. Most of the time just dies.
This is annoying..

It's not a good look having to rev it like a rudeboi at junctions and traffic lights.

I've replaced Icv
cleaned crank sensor
ran the car with lambda sensor unplugged,also plugged in
took inlet off,checked gaskets and also any leaks,all pipes tight,no issues there.
reset ecu
full tank of v power & injector cleaner

this evening I unplugged purge valve,pic below and it idled smoother so I hooned it down my fav private road for 15mins and drive it hard. idle caught nicely at 1k everytime i stopped,slowed down or approached a junction. Niiiicee.

well.got home,reversed into my drive and BAM! revs drop and dies down.grrr
i am waiting for a new lambda sensor and trying to source s map sensor.
I drove with map sensor unplugged and car behaved as expected. Ran it with lambda unplugged again predictable behaviour.

Now the rad has seen better days and loses about 200 ml every short 7 mile journey to work. But no leaks..
Headgasket went on my old 306 Rallye and moisture went into the head and contaminanted lambda sensor?
Can this happen?? Full head rebuilt with headgasket with receipts less than 3k miles ago and def doesn't feel down on power but exhaust reeks

Bodywork needs some love,its more cherry pink than red and has a few small scrapes and dents.

runs Better since I unplugged the purge valve plug. Hmm I chucked some radseal in it and it seems fine now.old radiator is battered,could well be leaking and I just haven't spotted it yet.fires up nicely from cold,slightly lumpy. Does drive jerky and misfires a bit when cold.don't think any moisture is getting into the head.also there isn't no unusual buildup of pressure in the cooling system.

she got a few new bits-
New lambda sensor
brand new Vts radiator
lower strut brace just went on
normal decat Pugsport midsection to replace the one with a cat welded in
and as suggested also a compression test
results will be revealed as well as a hyped post about how much I've missed a raspy Pugsport and pops and bangs.

oh also will have a go at playing with cam timing on the vernier pulley.going for a slight 6 degree retard in the cam as suggested by a few for a better mid range punch.

settings below for anyone interested- Ax rally spec cam-
Cam = CPT 02BL
Estimated Power Gain = 12 Bhp
Powerband = 2000 - 6000rpm.
Valve Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 9.52mm
Duration (Inlet/Exhaust) = 284 Degrees
Timing (Inlet Open/Close)/(Exhaust Open/Close) = 34/70 70/34
Full Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 108 Degrees
Valve Clearance = 0.25mm
Powerband = 2000 - 6000rpm.
Valve Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 9.52mm
Duration (Inlet/Exhaust) = 284 Degrees
Timing (Inlet Open/Close)/(Exhaust Open/Close) = 34/70 70/34
Full Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 108 Degrees
Valve Clearance = 0.25mm
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Old 25-09-2012, 10:36 PM   #2
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few little changes,nothing major.

Gave the interior a really good clean

Fitted an Omp lower strut brace

Brand new Saxo Vts Radiator, flushed the whole system. Now it doesn't loose any coolant,must have just been a sneaky leak on my old battered radiator.phew

Pugsport mid section replaced with a decatted one,old centre section had a standard cat welded in. Whole old system was Magnex Peugeot Sport, backbox still is,mid section is now the newer Scorpion Pugsport.

New gearbox oil. Old one was s**tty Halfrauds and made the box whine.this stuff is awesome,now selects even smoother,love that gearbox.

New balljoint and wishbone bolts

Old skool tape player,will hook it up to an aux-in tape. Not like I need a stereo now that the Pugsport rasps and pops.

Interior light now works,fixed itself waiting for it to compensate by something playing up.also I'm going to dye the rooflining black.its grey atm and doesn't suit the red and black interior imo.
How the Pugsport hangs

Also attacked a bit of wannabe surface rust under the Boot,really nothing major but I'm a perfectionist,rust remover,wire brush,hammerite and waxoyl.

Paintwork in general needs love. few scratches and stuff. Nice from far,far from nice..


Stickers are all faded

Steels looked very sorry for themselves,quick coat of Hammerite made them presentable enough until payday when I get some S2 steels and new tires all around.


So i thought I found the cause of a knocking when accelerating..
it was back yesterday so i had another good look around.
removed my lower strut brace and painted it yellow,boredom.

drove the car without it to see if the noise was still there and it was.

I then got bit annoyed and started forcefully shaking and pulling at the passenger wishbone. Lots of play in the rear mount and voila,we have the culprit.


polybushed wishbones with new balljoints and droplinks on the way. Figured it would be rude not to pop on some Arb polybushes too.

Quick pic with my twin's 182. The S1 feels more lairy but I regret not buying a nice Phase 1 172 instead!


Great news on the bodywork front! A mate who works as a sprayer offered to sort my roof,bumpers and arches if I help him remove the engine out of his 205 Rallye and fit an S2 Rallye engine. Seems fair, he's got someone else to do the loom and other annoying bits.
his 205-

Got some 306 Hdi Lucas 266s off a mate for .......10 BOOM! with good discs and pads.
all stripped apart and in excellent condition. Just painting them yellow.

I gave up after two coats,who cares,they'll be hidden behind steelies anyway.

also I've gone all out to cure the occasionally jerky acceleration in low revs and stalling.
on the way-
Green coolant temp sensor
Fuel pump
map sensor
and new spark plugs.
It'll behave if it knows what's good or I'll hit it with the 16v stick, sick of it limping around and me not being able to drive it with confidence!
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Last edited by hsustyle; 25-09-2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 25-09-2012, 10:47 PM   #3
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I found this loose near my fuel pump.can someone identify it for me please?
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Old 26-09-2012, 09:09 AM   #4
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You still 16v'ing this..? and i see Callum is putting a s2 engine in his 205 then
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Old 26-09-2012, 11:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniGibbo View Post
You still 16v'ing this..? and i see Callum is putting a s2 engine in his 205 then
I will do yes. But I need to get this engine running 100% first and the cam timing adjusted. need to sell this engine as a happy engine. There are plenty of J4s around and I have all the bits for a conversion ready

I'm heading over to give Callum a hand with the S2 engine swap next week. He was looking at loosing the carbs on his Rallye engine but I makes sense to just use a 1.6
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Old 26-09-2012, 11:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsustyle View Post
I found this loose near my fuel pump.can someone identify it for me please?
its part of the breather for the tank
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black s1 rallye 1.6 16v,
pugsport exhaust, peugeot sport compomotives, Gti 180 front brakes, 306gti6 master cylinder and servo, raceland induction kit, poly race bushes allround, raceland manifold
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Old 26-09-2012, 11:55 AM   #7
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I'm still interested in the engine when you come to change it, I'll even take it unhappy if it makes you happy!

Look's like a nice car too.
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Old 26-09-2012, 04:44 PM   #8
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I'm still interested in the engine when you come to change it, I'll even take it unhappy if it makes you happy!

Look's like a nice car too.
You'll be the first to know when it becomes available. I will want to sell it happy thou, especially if it's to someone in the club.
will be in the next couple of months
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Old 27-09-2012, 01:27 PM   #9
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few bits arrived this morning-
GrpN linkages
Fuel pump & sender
green temp sensor
map sensor

no pics of stuff fitted as i was in a rush.

Does it run any better? Not.one.bit

issue:
Jerky in low revs, misfires, stall as I approach junctions.

I've replaced-
Throttle position sensor
idle control valve
map sensor
fuel pump & sender
green temp sensor
radiator
coilpack
under ecu relay

I have new spark plugs arriving this afternoon but I have totally lost interest in the engine and the hunt for a strong 16v is underway
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Old 27-09-2012, 01:35 PM   #10
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Have you checked for fault codes? Sounds like one of those really irritating issues!

Might be worth pulling the loom off and running across it with a multimeter, just to be sure nothing weird's going on.
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Old 27-09-2012, 03:07 PM   #11
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Do you want to borrow my ECU from Mark's old Rallye? He's told me it's unlocked so should be a plug and play job.
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Old 27-09-2012, 04:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Have you checked for fault codes? Sounds like one of those really irritating issues!

Might be worth pulling the loom off and running across it with a multimeter, just to be sure nothing weird's going on.
I've had it plugged into a snazzy Snap-On diagnostics machine and nothing came up- 'no power from vehicle'. That was from the green plug under ecu.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neb View Post
Do you want to borrow my ECU from Mark's old Rallye? He's told me it's unlocked so should be a plug and play job.
Mate that might be worth a try if the new spark plugs don't cure it! I'd really appreciate it. I have feeling the current Ecu has a map on it by Skip Brown from what the paperwork indicates.. I'll pm you tomorrow if it doesn't behave itself.
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Old 27-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #13
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Yeah no worries, my S1 is running like a bag 'o' shite, but a set of injectors are on the way for it.

The only thing i would ask if you borrow it is that it comes back as soon as you have tried it as i'd like to keep the car semi mobile.

Someone said about leads over on the dark side, it would run on 3 probably rather than the problems you have had with the idle but we have had a sexy lead go down on the Escort after a few miles, they may be expensive but they are still made by humans. I would be looking at compression & the timing failing that.
All the tappets are the correct gap?
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Old 27-09-2012, 10:38 PM   #14
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Yeah no worries, my S1 is running like a bag 'o' shite, but a set of injectors are on the way for it.

The only thing i would ask if you borrow it is that it comes back as soon as you have tried it as i'd like to keep the car semi mobile.

Someone said about leads over on the dark side, it would run on 3 probably rather than the problems you have had with the idle but we have had a sexy lead go down on the Escort after a few miles, they may be expensive but they are still made by humans. I would be looking at compression & the timing failing that.
All the tappets are the correct gap?
I should really look at getting the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. 130k+ miles cant have done them much good.
I'll have it booked in a mates garage to have compression checked next week and see what that reveals.
leads all look fairly new? Silicone blue performance ones.
I have never played around with cam timing and tappets yet and in all honesty wouldn't know where to start. I've been recommended to retard the cam by 6 degrees too??
As for borrowing the ecu that's fair,I'd have it back to you next day delivery. I'll yet the spark plugs tomorrow, compression test and cam adjustement next week and failing that I'll be in touch about the ecu!

On a positive note few more lil bits arrived.
balljoints, spark plugs and 22mm Arb polybushes.
I am still waiting for a set of polybushed wishbones to arrive with new rear mounts.
Anti roll bar and wishbones will get a lick of paint over the weekend and get fitted at the same time as the 266 brake set up.
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Old 28-09-2012, 03:12 PM   #15
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Wish I still had my Gti-6!
Old spark plugs, still smells like its running a bit rich.
haven't had a chance to take it for a drive yet to see if the stalling issue has disappeared.

Fairly new leads

New polybush 22mm Arb bushes

Rubbish pics of GrpN linkages fitted

New green temp sensor

New map sensor

Plastic cam cover removed when it started to rain conveniently so I left it alone.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:35 PM   #16
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Refurbished wishbones arrived. Polybushed with new rear mounts. I hammered out the balljoints,new one in.


also picked up a Xsi spoiler. Makes the car look a bit more aggressive I think. Also ordered a fabia vrs splitter for the front as I want to move the numberplate down like on my old one.

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Old 04-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #17
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Definitely liked the look of your old one, perhaps a few less stickers here and there!

Have you solved your idling issues?
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:51 PM   #18
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New balljoints are now on. It feels a bit heavier on the steering and a lot more firm and has made a nice difference. But the knocking noise is still there,the culprit being top mount bearing. It's a lot quieter and less frequent now with the new wishbones fitted and for now isn't a priority. I'll take the struts off when I do the 16v conversion at the end of the month and have a garage fit new top mount kit both sides
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:20 AM   #19
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Are the ball joints a bit of a bitch to do or relatively easy?
I usually just replace the whole arm i suppose out of lazyness.

Where did you get the ball joints from?

How have you been getting on with the 8v? Are we having a deal toward the end of the month?
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:40 PM   #20
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Are the ball joints a bit of a bitch to do or relatively easy?
I usually just replace the whole arm i suppose out of lazyness.

Where did you get the ball joints from?

How have you been getting on with the 8v? Are we having a deal toward the end of the month?
Balljoints were a pain. I had to hammer the old ones out and used a press with a socket over the other end,got there in the end!

Engine runs a lot better.hasn't stalled in days luckily and seems to behave itself. still,not great to drive through slow stop and start traffic.
Big plans end of the month.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:02 PM   #21
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Mini update
i spent most of the day removing engine and gearbox from a mate's 205 Rallye. This was really fun thanks to some stubborn nuts and bolts, nothing a grinder and the special tool (hammer) can't sort.

another mate popped round for a bit in his SC'd Gti6 and kindly helped me fit the 266mm brakes.
pedal has a little bit more travel but they are noticeably sharper when I stamp the pedal.
Back end gets a little light as he noticed when he took it for a blast, came back with an approving smile.

Pics in no particular order
Three great drivers cars, a Gti 6 lurking in the background. Which one would you choose?




fireblade bike carbs for 106/ 205 8v Rallye or Xs for sale too as well as a good working 1.4 205 Rallye lump.

Rubbish pics of my 266s going on. Pretty tight fit!
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Old 16-10-2012, 09:42 PM   #22
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266s are a pot sharper than the old set up.
Also fitted xsi spoiler and gave the wheels another going over with hammerite, .
Engine runs great now. Seems to have gradually fixed itself. Maybe to do with me running it on vpower now.
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Old 28-10-2012, 03:07 PM   #23
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Picked up a lowish mileage J4 engine with cambelt, done. I have also bought all the other conversion bits, pics to follow.

Within a couple of hours it went from this..

To this

I then managed to snap the connector for the the vacuum pipe off the brake servo., that was the only hickup

Now I'm waiting for the loom to be made and also waiting for a clutch kit and delivery of a 1.4 Xsi gearbox. The Rallye box is fun but toooo short with the 16v. Xsi one is still pretty good nutty.
Old engine, ecu, manifold, inlet and starter motor all palleted ready to be collected by new owner. It's going In a Rallye Rally car so it will be used properly.
Bigger update in a few days.
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Old 31-10-2012, 11:02 PM   #24
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Today I cleaned and painted engine bay, no more surface or scabby paint. Wasn't too bad, a lot less filth and rust than my other 106s.

Also fitted a new clutch kit and checked out the cambelt too, nice and new.



1.4 Xsi gearbox arrived today, I spent cleaning it and also cleaning the engine block, very pleased with results.



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Old 03-11-2012, 05:24 PM   #25
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Oh why oh why did I tell ever think heatwrapping the raceland was a good idea. Everytime I do It I tell myself it will be the last time Haha.
Got some thermotec copper exhaust wrap and the thermotec spray on coating.

3hrs later it was wrapped like a boss.

Then all sprayed with thermotec heat coating. It soaks deep into the exhaust wrap and adds protection and more insulation.
And looks bling


I have been painstakingly brushed and cleaned a steering wheel from stuck down suade to nice and suadey again, pics shortly. My S1 Rallye steering wheel is now for sale.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:37 PM   #26
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Steering wheel before and after.
Was stuck down suade, not grippy at all, bit grubby really.

Usual trick of warm soapy water a sponge and a suade brush. Feels great now.
The wheel is not also BMW sparkling grey.

Simonta/Raceland enclosed induction kit with a green cotton filter.

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Old 06-11-2012, 02:33 PM   #27
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New spec



Engine-
1.6 16v TU5J4 1998 Vts single plug
New Luk Clutch kit & release bearing
polished throttle body
Orange banded injectors
Heatwrapped Raceland 4-2-1 manifold with thermotec exhaust wrap coating/sealant
Raceland enclosed induction kit with Green cotton filter
2" GrpN PeugeotSport System decat
New cambelt kit, idler, tensioner & waterpump
New headgasket
New oil filter
Slimline fan
uprated fuel filter
full service
New spark plugs
Unlocked single plug Ecu
New stainless steel cam cover bolts, exhaust manifold bolts and throttle body bolts.

transmission-
Peugeot Sports ratio gearset + 1.4 Xsi Final drive
New output shaft bearings
New gearbox oil

New driveshafts
Skip Brown Quickshift -40% throw on gearchange- awesome feel

Suspension-
Custom Skip Brown 155lb Roadsport Front Springs -30mm
fully adjustable Avo Dampers front and rear
New top mounts and bearings
New droplinks & track rod ends
Standard Rear TBs/ARB
Rebuilt rear beam using OE parts
polybushed rear beam, anti roll bar bushes and wishbones
new front wheel bearings
Omp lower strut brace
No rust at all, all been welded, cut out re welded with re enforcing plates, sealed and resprayed. Solid shell!
Brakes-
266mm Lucas calipers (306 hdi)
Braided lines front
New copper rear brake lines
saxo Vts Brake servo- 1.5inches bigger than Rallye
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:52 PM   #28
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Engine now in,flung everything in for a quick snap. just waiting for the loom. Zzz



Also flung in the suade steering wheel, feels like my old Rallye!
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:53 PM   #29
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:07 PM   #30
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And as it stands now. All that's left to do is fit new throttle cable and give it a good clean...
Loom and unlocked ecu won't be here until weds now, bit annoying really as I wanted to just finish it all.
Pugsport is now super shiny and polished, hard to see in the pic, I'll have to take a better one tomorrow.




Look what arrived today. 205 1.9 Gti Speedlines. I these are 15'' and have nearly new Yohohama Parada Spec 2s. Yum.
I have already started to refurb them, gunmetal grey is what I'm going for.
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Old 15-11-2012, 08:30 PM   #31
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Well minimal progress at last. Loom arrived today alongside my unlocked ecu. Looks amazing, the bloke who did it is clearly a perfectionist, no complaints there.
Now here is the annoying but. I have no days off this week to fit it, the car isn't in a lit area.
And I have no days off next week due to a last minute trip to Germany. I'll have to get me a powerful torch and get it done one evening next week.
Anyway pic of the loom below and I also found a pic from beginning of this year of my old 16v and my 306 Rallye.

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Old 16-11-2012, 10:52 PM   #32
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I've just plugged in my new loom in to get my 16v conversion running but the fuel pump doesn't prime.
Ecu is unlocked and the fuel injection relay is a known working one.

There is spark and the starter motor works and turns the fly.
No clicking from anywhere and as far as I'm aware, all earth's are on properly.

Pics below of all the earths in case anyone can spot a fault?
Negative is earthed on inner wing and on top of gearbox.

Positive is on top of starter motor and inside the fuse box.

An earth from the loom is also on top of gearbox and two more join the one from the positive battery on the starter motor.

No priming. What have I wired wrong?
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Old 17-11-2012, 06:54 AM   #33
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I assume the pump worked fine before you removed the 1.3 engine? The earth point for the pump is on the C-pillar behind the plastic seat belt cover panels I think. If all that is OK, then it's down to the loom conversion. I'm off out now, but I'll check later what pins on the engine/car multiplug should go to which pins on the multifunction relay (under the ECU) for the fuel pump. I remember it being a big white wire, but that doesn't help much!
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Old 19-11-2012, 07:04 AM   #34
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Here's a beautiful diagram of how mine is wired.
Should be pretty basic and clear, see if you can spot a fault I've highlighted the stray 'earth' with__?.
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Old 24-11-2012, 02:06 PM   #35
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just mount the 'stray earth' on the chassis near the big plastic 2 connectors behind the headlight. There should be a mounting point there (not sure anymore if it's a bolt or just a hole). Everything else is wired properly

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Old 28-11-2012, 10:44 AM   #36
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Paifully slow progress.
Got it running at last after finding no power going to the fuel pump and a burned out fuse.
I then had the car running for say 15mins before it started to stall and die under a bit of throttle. I I checked All the earths and saw a wire had split from my alternator so the pump wasn't getting steady power and battery was running low.

Then I tried to crank it lots and start up again but engine wouldn't turn over. Pretty sure the starter motor is fried.

I have a spare one to fit in the morning and fingers crossed that's what's causing the engine to not turn over.
Wow this car has been such a pain.
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Old 28-11-2012, 10:54 AM   #37
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If the battery was low enough to cause fuel pump issues before you switched it off, surely it won't start it again? Charge the battery up and give it a go.

In fairness you've not had the biggest issues ever - a blown fuse (always check them first) and a duff alternator wire, now a flat battery. For an engine transplant that's not bad going.
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Old 28-11-2012, 11:23 AM   #38
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I guess so. The engine ran even and smooth for a good 15mins to get warm and get bubbles out the coolant. Then started stalling and the engine would crank slower and slower so I popped battery on charge and connected the alternator wire. Tried charged battery dormant this morning and got a burned smell from starter motor area. Engine now doesn't crank and i get a noise from the starter similar to a heater fan. I have a spare 8v Starter motor to try tomorrow morning.

Fuel pump does prime and has constant 12v,relay works too. Can only be the starter motor surely.
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Old 28-11-2012, 11:46 AM   #39
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Sounds like the solenoid isn't playing ball and the starter is just spinning. The wire for the solenoid is still connected, right? You could try twatting it with a hammer to see if it unsticks itself.
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Old 28-11-2012, 12:13 PM   #40
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Someone suggested that's what It probably is. Luckily i have a spare starter motor to try. Old one always sounded a bit noisy and strained, not surprised it gave up. Will update tomorrow morning.
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Old 30-11-2012, 10:28 AM   #41
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New known working starter motor on and it still doesn't start. Engine just won't turn over at all. I've tried two different fully charged batteries too and double checked all the earths and feeds. New injector relay arrives today, figured its worth a try.

Could by immobiliser be knackered and therefore stops the engine from cranking?
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Old 30-11-2012, 11:13 AM   #42
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What immobiliser? 3rd party?
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Old 30-11-2012, 11:40 AM   #43
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is it turning?
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Old 30-11-2012, 12:43 PM   #44
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Jump the starter directly to the battery, stand back and see what happens?
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Old 30-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mankee View Post
Jump the starter directly to the battery, stand back and see what happens?
+1 be ready for the spark!
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Old 30-11-2012, 08:32 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harv View Post
What immobiliser? 3rd party?
Not sure none of my other Rallye had one like this. No keypad just a lil blip thing under the ignition barrel with a swap.
Red blinking light till I swip it then it let's me start the car.


Quote:
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is it turning?
Doesn't turn at all. But ran perfectly fine and smooth for a good ten minutes.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:50 AM   #47
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If its not turning then it will be immob or wiring for sure.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #48
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It was a burned fuse in the fusebox and a broken earth.
Always something simple!

It drives but I am still adjusting things like clutch and I throttle position to how I like it.

Rubbish pic but you can see how I moved the number plate down and drilled holes in the bumper. Keeps it supa cool and looks a bit more aggressive.

I T cut the paint and polished it but then POW grit and snow made it dirty.

Got the 1.9 Speedlines sprayed up glossy black to go on this weekend, hopefully the Parada Spec 2s. Will stop the wheels from spinning up so easily!

Pops and bangs like crazy now and I think the 1.4 Xsi box is a lot better suited to the engine than the stupidly short 1.3 Rallye box.

The rev counter still doesn't work so I can will get me a new interior loom and dials as I'm not all too keen to find out where the limiter is!
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:17 PM   #49
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Looks great... Apart from the bonnet lifters! You know they often make things hotter under there rather than just cooling everything, right?

XSI box is definitely more daily-friendly, but the Rallye box and the buzzy little 8v is that classic combo.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:46 PM   #50
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Have it a good clean lean today, paintwork came up a treat with some Tcut.
Comments welcome, ignore the Gangamg style sticker in the window, it was a joke.









Also had new droplinks fitted and full brakes bled.
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