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Old 20-11-2005, 08:35 PM   #1
dynofiend
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My S1 XSi S16: BLOG

Bought in November 2005 by me this is my XSi blog

The car was bought from Ex PSOOC member Xavier, and previous to that was owned by a chap in Wales, who spent thousands on getting Pugperformance to do the engine and brake swap and lower it. It was probably one of the first s1 16v conversions to be done in the UK.

Heres some pics of how i bought it, this blog will document its development.

I bought it with the following mods already done

Engine, 16v gti lump with VTR box, 4-1 GMC manifold, stainless magnex cat back exhaust, pipercross air filter

Suspension, lowered 60mm all round on PI springs

Brakes, 306 front callipers, braided hoses

Interior, momo millenium wheel, B&M quickshift










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Old 20-11-2005, 08:53 PM   #2
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Today ive fitted an original xsi steering wheel, with a rallye centre cap. Removed the original xsi carpet and underlay, fitted a red rallye carpet. Removed the centre exhaust heatshield to stop the quickshift fouling on it, removed the tempramental brake pad thickness warning wires from the wheelarches. Removed the spare wheel and cage. Fixed the oil temperature sensor (temporarily) and fitted my brand new 15" speedline chronos with yoko 539 rubber very happy




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Old 18-12-2005, 07:29 PM   #3
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today, with huge tremendous massive thankyous to semtex (what a guy ) we fitted a 1.4xsi box to the car, and a timmy b rose jointed gearlink kit, the difference is very nice, the acceleration particularly from 2nd into 3rd is noticably faster now. Just gotta get the linkages set up properly and theyll feel superb im sure.

i never want to do it again though!

just gotta wash the gearbox oil out of my hair now...
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Old 04-01-2006, 03:42 PM   #4
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well the car has been up on axle stands for a while now, so far ive got round to fitting both upper group n mounts (the lower one was 2mm the wrong size and wont fit in the bracket) ive removed the manifold ready for wrapping, got the decat pipe lined up too. Ive also sourced the knocking noise i had which was a loose engine mount bolt which clearly needs threadlock to survive. Ive also rigged up some brake cooling ducts cutting holes in the arch liners and the bumper behind the s1 rallye vents i fitted in place of the fog lights and running alloy tubing through. They seem to be just fine but i will need to fix them in place properly as they are just kind of slotted in place at the moment.

I still havent atacked the suspension as yet mind you, although i am slightly loathed to as although the car isnt ideally set up ride height wise, it looks well cool, and i get the impression it will look very 4x4 like when i have raised it back up again.
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:26 PM   #5
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my car now has a heatwrapped exhaust manifold, which still smokes a bit once it gets warm, and ive also fitted a 206 1.6 16v simota air filter which took a little modification to get right. I also have now fitted both upper group n mounts and a lower mount which i have reinforced using hot glue (hope it doesnt melt!) i also fitted a decat pipe too which aswell as making the car pop and splutter more, also weighs less than the std one. Oh i also got a new battery as well.

Still left to do engine wise is the small flywheel cover on the bottom of the gearbox, but other than that the engine and gearbox is now finished!

Just the suspension, brakes, interior and exterior to go then!

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Old 15-01-2006, 04:52 PM   #6
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Spent a few hours today cleaning the car, first time since i bought it as well so was feeling pretty guilty!

Once id finished i also added my s16 badges ive been preparing and took some pictures of the simota induction kit i fitted last week. The paintwork is pretty good, a legacy of its previous owner who garaged it for 5 years and really looked after it.





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Old 05-02-2006, 10:44 PM   #7
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right so now the car has been completley stripped of all the interior apart from the front seats.. and i mean everything, including the soundprofing behind the dashboard and the rooflining.

I weighed all the plastics and they add up to 12kg, thats not including the weight ive saved with the carpet, underlay, sound proofing, all the seats and seat belts, glovebox etc etc.

I have got the roll cage in the car and cut plates for mouting and just need to drill and bolt it to get it fitted.

I have also fitted one of my limited edition dynofiend perspex sunroofs its screwed in so wont open but is half the weight of the glass one and the cage got in the way of the old one anyway so its pretty much essential!

heres a pic of the sunroof, its made from dark smoke tinted perspex.

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Old 16-02-2006, 06:56 PM   #8
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Slow progress this week, but i have now completed my lightweight home made aluminium seat subframes **** courtesy of timmyb's design **** which are the dogs danglies, and also made a small but sturdy steel bracket which will join the roll cage to the B pillar once its welded it to the cage.





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Old 19-02-2006, 06:57 PM   #9
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more progress...

i have now fitted a new centre mounting point for the belts (stole the idea from gregg ) removed some more interior brackets n bits n bobs, the dash is back on and the front and rear suspension is complete apart from rotating the struts 180. Standard lights are now back in as well. A spagetti of various wires removed from the dash and boot looms also.

Also got all the central locking parts out, electric window and mirror parts all removed and ive reverted to keep fit windows.
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Old 20-02-2006, 07:36 PM   #10
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More progress!

The car is back on the road!

today i fitted the drivers seat and a harness, turned the top mounts around 180 degrees, refitted everything (only a few screws left over lol) and bolted on one of my F1 mirrors.

Then went for a drive and BLIMEY the car is even more lively and faster than before. I just cant get over the acceleration in second gear, its just scary, especially as the car pulls a little to the left and goes into a bit of oversteer under heavy braking (probably need to bleed the fluid off a bit i reckon).

did i mention that my insurance hasnt gone up for any of the mods ive done to the car since i bought it as well, how great is that!

still got a load of stuff to do but i am really glad to have it back again
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Old 20-02-2006, 09:23 PM   #11
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heres a nice pic of my new mirror

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Old 14-03-2006, 09:28 AM   #12
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steel seat mounts now replaced with OMP aluminium ones, ill be cutting the tops off them as they foul the lap belts and are not needed



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Old 16-03-2006, 08:10 AM   #13
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right, i have now had the little brackets that affix the cage to the B pillars MIG welded in place on the cage, the car definately feels stiffer, but thats probably just me

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Old 27-03-2006, 05:31 PM   #14
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now that everything has been trialled, ive taken it all back out again for final finishing and painting.

The first step involved stripping off the soundproofing tar on the rear arches and floor, then i took out everything and masked it all up to respray it in red. More pics to follow...











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Old 31-03-2006, 06:12 PM   #15
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Respray complete! im sure youll agree it looks a darn site better! Door cards and newly sprayed cage to come...





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Old 31-03-2006, 08:28 PM   #16
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heres the cage, freshly returned from my mates garage (cheers pete!)

also i have got some of this stuff called corri-card, its very light (probably as light as carbon fibre) and stiff in one direction and is perfect for door cards and other flat items, plus it was free



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Old 01-04-2006, 04:46 PM   #17
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cage refitted, seats and belts back in, and a fire extinguisher fitted under the passenger seat

looks alot better now eh!

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Old 02-04-2006, 08:11 PM   #18
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today, with HUGE thanks to Gregg for his spanner skillz and working on my car the whole day, and to Pete aka cableguy for the use of garage space and food and drink provision, and my long suffering beautiful girlfriend jacqui for putting up with me spending the whole of the day working on the car and providing me with home made soup and codiene based happy pills for my agnonising wisdom teeth... we have fitted a new NS driveshaft to replace the one i fried at llandow (it ran dry), fresh box oil, Mintex 1144 pads (cheers mark), Castrol RS Response brake fluid and a full set of Spax PSX adjustable short stroke shocks (cheers Fuzzy)

no pics cos it looks the same as before! but check my sig to see the West Mids 16v XSi posse in full effect!

thanks everyone
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:47 PM   #19
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today, replaced the bottom ball joint bolt and nut that gregg threaded using his mighty strength and also painted the callipers, much chosing went on between black, gold or blue, but black won in the end cos its not too showy but still stands out enough to look nice. Plus it wont get so dirty as quickly.

before


after
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Old 07-04-2006, 05:39 PM   #20
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more goodies! an aluminium co drivers footrest and a set of aluminium pedals. I had to modify them both slightly to fit. The footrest needed the corner cut out to clear the curve of the arch. The accelerator pedal was initially in a sort of blunt J shape, but my feet were catching its left edge on braking. So i just lopped off the jutting out part and made it look symetrical instead. It now works just great and makes heel toe easier, even though im not very good at it!



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Old 22-04-2006, 07:15 PM   #21
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new ultra light weight OMP gearknob fitted today saving a wacking 150 grammes (cheers mark ) and more cleaning done, paintwork is slowly coming up to scratch as you can see but itll be a good few more weeks until im happy enough to seal it with wax or anything



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Old 24-04-2006, 07:25 PM   #22
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more progress;

thanks to pete (cableguy) and his bottomless garage i reloacted my battery to behind the passenger seat yesterday, and today i made my own perspex rear windows!

The whole battery job cost me nothing other than the cost of the battery itself. The cable used is for home wiring i think and is around 2awg, however i checked out a lupo gti which has its batt in the boot (a longer run of cable) and its just as thick, if not thicker than that. The earth cable is only a foot long so is about 4awg. It goes through the hole where the speedo cable goes through the bulkhead. I fabricated some alloy brackets which use a combination of a shaped front bracket to hold the battery and a luggage strap. The earth was connected to one of the seat mounting points. Under the bonnet i spliced into the two main cables and stripped them back 1", then i got the new cable and stripped that back 1", then i 'hollowed out' the centre of the new cable by cutting some of the strands away, then i twisted the old cables together and inserted them into the now hollow centre of the new cable, a jubilee clip held it all together while a blowtorch and solder finished the job. The cable and new connection was then protected using caravan waste pipe and insulating tape. For the old earth lead i removed the old body-battery cable and then soldered on a new connector to the old grey gearbox-battery lead and connected that to the std body earth point near the old battery running the grey cable under the old battery tray to keep it tidy. The battery itself is a 002r so is about 2kg lighter than a std 063, but it seems to work fine.

The windows were more straight forward. Basicly i nicked the fixed windows off my girlfriends 106 xn, and replaced them with my old opening ones. Then i took the glass and drew round it onto some perspex which i found in a skip. Carefully cut it out, and refitted it in the rubbers and back to the car. Some 106rallye.co.uk stickers finished the job!











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Old 25-04-2006, 12:21 PM   #23
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Todays doodahs

as the show season approaches im trying to finish off all the little jobs that i keep finding excuses to do!

Today ive succomed to practicality and fitted a cargo net/helmet hammock on the roll cage, which wil at least give me somewhere to put things so they dont fly around the cabin.

Since i moved the battery there was a gaping hole in the engine bay, which looked a bit sad and folorn. So i relocated the ABS ECU so it sits where the battery used to be, meaning it sits lower and closer to the centre line of the car (better for weight distribution). Ive also junked the extra fuse box which only contained one relay anyway. I just waterproofed the relay and tidied it out the way. Some black plastic sheets cut to size tidy it all up, lick of paint, and all the bracketry i junked in the process weighed about a kilo. Once again, all free of charge. Result!



engine bay before


and after
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Old 28-04-2006, 07:02 PM   #24
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more work today included securing the new battery cable to the floor properly, removing the charcoal cannister and associated bracketry from the wing (the vacuum pipe wasnt connected anyway), and also in order to redistribute a tiny amount of weight from the front to the rear, i removed the front washer bottle and piping, and put a 205 gti rear washer bottle and pump in the back, reconnected the pipes in the correct order, created a new feed for the motor using what used to be the wires for the rear windscreen wiper. It works perfectly and (if the bottle was full) removed 5kg from the front of the car.

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Old 03-05-2006, 06:37 PM   #25
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today ive saved no weight at all!

ive removed the ECU mounting tray and fitted the ECU utilising two small bolts and some foam blocks, which has saved me about 1kg and it fits rock solid, perfectly! i polished it too.

To add the weight back again ive fitted a ramair strut tower brace made from aluminium. It fits great but unfortunately ive had to lose the bonnet prop support from the underside of the bonnet, so some other arrangement will have to be made to stop the bonnet from shutting on my head



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Old 13-05-2006, 06:20 PM   #26
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busy day today!

dismantled the front end of the car and fitted a nissens rad, a raceland manifold (wrapped it too) and also swapped the 16v alternator setup for the 8v setup. The 8v set up is about 2kg lighter, and the bottom end pulley is half the weight (rotational mass is more important than static mass). Whilst i was there i also chopped half a kilo of metal from the slam panel and removed a bunch of brackets and bolts i no longer needed.

now im knackered!
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Old 24-05-2006, 06:03 PM   #27
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I havent been updating for a while, so heres what else ive been up to recently.

Re wired in the front fan losing a foot of cable and a connector, more plastic trim in the bin from the engine bay. I finished wrapping the manifold as id run out of wrap previously. The engine oil has been changed for silkolene 5-40 and filter changed too.

Ive also fitted the carbon sunroof panel, saving about 5kg in the process, and carbon door cards to match.

Finally i took advantage of a break in the weather, i used the group buy megs polish to do the upper half of the car (no time for the panels below the black time line). It works very very well, but i really should have clayed the car first as its still not glass smooth. However it is very shiny!

Oh and i also got fed up of being blinded by low sun (no visors), so i got a sunstrip, i must have one of the few cars on the road to actually have a sunstrip purely for function!

The roof is covered up as the stupid sealant i bought appears to take about a week to cure instead of 30 mins, the wood keeps the car cover from sticking to the sealant.









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Old 25-05-2006, 04:57 PM   #28
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I think i may have finished all the jobs i can realisticly do on my car!

A beautiful sunny day and finishing work at 2pm meant i could do all the little jobs id been meaning to do.

I had to refit my carbon sunroof, the sealant i used to start was a low modulus variety. The tube didnt state this, but it would have taken nearly a month to cure! So i had to clean it all off (tedious) and replace it with some new stuff which is normal sealant and cures in 18 hours. (Top tip, never buy sealant unless it states on the tube it contains aecetic acid, anything thats neutral cure or doesnt have acid, will take a month to cure). Dont fret though, its actually held in place by loctite shock bond, the silicone is for aesthetic and aerodynamic purposes only

I also removed the rear bumper and took out the arch liners and the one way flap/tubes.

Then i removed the boot gas struts and the bonnet stay, and replaced them with dynofiend patented carbon fibre tubes.

I also fitted a carbon fibre tube to the roof panel to prevent it denting when i wash it, just fixed in place with duck tape at the mo as i havent cleaned off the headlining goo.

SO a total weight saving of 7kg if i include the new roof panel.









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Old 05-06-2006, 06:51 PM   #29
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Ive been thinking about this for a while now, the underside aerodynamics of the car are ok, up until the boot area, where there is a large hollow capped off with a big air dam formed by the rear bumper. This aero 'hole' is accentuated when running without the spare wheel.

Ive used a couple of sheets or corricard, which is corrugated plastic. Its just a temporary measure really, ideally id like one made from fibreglass and brought more to the exhaust side of the car so it flushes up against the exhaust more. However im sure this will do the trick for now.

I also changed the rear beam bushes for polyflex ones finally!

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Old 24-06-2006, 03:52 PM   #30
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well as im sure youre aware already, ive redesigned and refitted the rear diffuser to make it lighter (its now 0.6kg lighter at 1.1kg) and is a much better fit and stiffer. Im very happy with it, so much so that ive started to make them for other people! PM me for details

Ive also now fitted my fibreglass bonnet a little better (its still not painted though) and due to the loss of the washer jets, ive attached some alfa romeo spray bars onto the wipers, so the washer jets squirt directly onto the windscreen instead, a neat solution (cheers gregg).






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Old 14-07-2006, 07:12 AM   #31
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oops, i havent updated this in a while!

I have now sprayed the bonnet white. I finally decided it would be too hard to match the shades of red and get it looking good, plus i would have needed a perfect finish. A slightly matt effect which is all i am capable of with the spray gun, would be no good.

So with big thanks to pete and his dad this was done, and it looks really good. I need to cut it a few times to get the finish even better (there are reflections in it but its not totally glossy and perfect).

i also changed the sunstrip to a white one to match

A trackday at donnington has finished off the front offside damper, so new ones are lined up already for fitting soon. Im also contemplating raising the ride height, but i love the way it sits.

The trackday also saw a leak in the brake servo develop, intresting as when braking hard with the car in gear and the clutch up, the car was still trying to accelerate slightly due to the extra air getting into the manifold through the leak when the pedal was being pressed.

I have big plans for the braking system...

pugfest came and went without incident and with some nice photos

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Old 20-07-2006, 01:50 AM   #32
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as of last saturday with massive thanks to gregg we fitted a 23mm master cylinder and a new slightly larger saxo vts brake servo.

There were a few issues with brake bleeding, the air bubbles in the line proving difficult to remove using a pumping pedal as the bubbles simply rise back up in the lines. As it stands there is about 1" of pedal travel which although it has a good effect on the brakes, still needs looking at. Once the pedal firms up the difference is astounding. The brakes are sooo powerful now and much easier to modulate. I need to purchase a pressure bleeding kit to remove the remainder of the air.

At the same time as fitting these parts we also completely removed the ABS system. I had previously taken out the ABS electronics including the ECU and all the loom. Now the rest of the system has gone, including the wheel sensors and fixings and the ABS pump and extra lines. The total weight saving of the entire system is probably close to 7kg and surprisingly the cars brakes are better without it, perhaps because the system is 14 years old and not very sophisticated.
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Old 23-07-2006, 07:50 PM   #33
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Just fiddling today, i changed the horrid chrome locking bonnet pin surrounds for some home made carbon ones.

Initially i made them the same size as the originals, but they just looked too big, so i swapped those around to the underside plates and made some slightly smaller ones for the top. Not only do they look nicer, but they save a whole 80 grammes



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Old 22-08-2006, 06:03 PM   #34
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A trackday at donnington at the weekend and amazingly nothing broke!

to celebrate i removed about another 3kg of unused wiring and bracketry from the engine bay. I think someday soon ill have the dashboard off again and strip the loom as theres definately a few kgs to be saved from that judging by the wiring ive already had out!
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Old 24-08-2006, 07:49 PM   #35
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today ive 'rationalised' the rear loom, the wiring harness which starts under the ashtray and runs to the rear of the car, removing all the unwanted wires for things like the rear wiper and speakers etc etc. I then rewrapped it and reinstalled it using a slightly different path for the loom meaning a further 2 feet of loom could be removed. I have weighed all the bits ive removed and the total was just over 1Kg. Not alot, but it all adds up and it was easy to do

Heres a bag with all the removed wires in

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Old 13-09-2006, 12:54 AM   #36
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looks like i spoke too soon about nothing breaking after the last trackday at donnington. The NS outer CV boot split. So thats the third one ive gone through. I have now totally given up on buying second hand driveshafts, theres no point on a track car, they just get too much abuse.

So instead i got some GKN reconned driveshafts, and whilst i was at it i decided to upgrade the single long OS driveshaft with the 'two piece' intermediate bearing version as found on rallyes and Gtis. This meant i needed the bearing bracket, which both pete and semtex kindly provided (i now have a spare for anyone that wants one!) and this simply bolted to the back of the block.

A good few hours, a new breaker bar, and a squashed thumb later and the new driveshafts are on and working just fine so far. It is noticable how much more stable the car is under acceleration. It used to squirm quite alot with torque steer, but now it acts in a straight line and the wheel doesnt fight me with squeezes of the loud pedal anymore. Hopefully this will make me able to use a bit more gas in coming out of slower corners on track.

Oh and i saved a further 0.5kg by cutting down the inner/lower window seals which arent needed.

Lets see what breaks next!
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Old 20-09-2006, 08:29 PM   #37
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Well, last weekend was the amazing Anglesey track day, drive 150 miles on saturday, camp out, full trackday at Anglesey (the last ever one!) and then drive home again.

http://www.106rallye.co.uk/members/d...nglewangle.wmv

The car was brilliant on track but the experience has left me with a long list of things to fix!

First and foremost the headgasket went, leaving me to get towed 70 miles home (was quite nice actually cos i could have a sleep!).

Secondly the rear trailing arm bearing is very loose and gave me a wobbly rear wheel.

One of my new driveshafts took a large rock to the gaitor and split nearly all the way around, so i need another new one of them.

On removing the brake pads i noticed that one of them (worn uneavenly) is near to the backing and another one is crumbling. All four are showing signs of trying to dettach from the back plate. I need new ones and clearly need a harder compound.

SO

So far i have removed the head, and its off for skimming and reconditioning. The driveshaft is off and i have a new one ready to go on (replaced under warantee ). The front struts have been removed and tonight ive fitted my new bilstein sport shocks and new H&R springs. The bearings and top mounts didnt need replacing, they were both fine.



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Old 25-09-2006, 06:34 PM   #38
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Another busy day today.

Ive removed the wishbones and fitted poly bushes in the fronts of them. This was impossible, but a kindly garage burnt the old ones out with a cutting torch which was very effective.

I also removed the passenger side rear seat mount, unfortunately the stresses had fatigued one particular part of the metal. So i made a new mount, and reinforced it. Then refitted it all.

Finally i have replaced the fuel hoses under the bonnet with nice new goodyear hoses, when i removed the inlet manifold, the hoses were starting to look a little perished, so while i was in there i thought id better replace them.

I would like to tell you that id also started to put the struts back on the car, unfortunately i noticed some play in one of the wheel bearings, so i went and bought two new ones, had them fitted, and they are even more sloppy than the old ones! So dont ever buy SNR bearings cos they are a waste of money.
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Old 29-09-2006, 07:21 PM   #39
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Ok, feeling a little silly, ive learnt that wheel bearings WILL have some play in them until the hubnuts are fully torqued. So there was probably nothing wrong with the old ones, and theres also nothing wrong with the new ones, hey ho! I suppose its good to replace them while im there being as they arent expensive.

That aside, dodging the downpours today has meant ive been able to reassemble the head, and bolt it back onto the car, using a new 4 layer metal head gasket and new head bolts. I also believe i have found what may have caused the HG to fail in the first place. The rearmost two bolts from the inlet manifold were missing and the OS inlet manifold/air distributor gasket was worn so it was flat and flush with the plastic. I could see where someone had attempted to use silicone to seal the gap instead (nice one pugperformance!) however this hadnt worked, and may have caused no.4 cylinder to run lean, while the others were all fine, with it running a bit hotter than normal this probably lead to the gasket failure. I got two new inlet gaskets from peugeot and fitted them anyway, and also found some bolts for the rear of the inlet manifold.

Once the head was on i reconnected all the pipes and plugs and a few other bits n bobs. Still gotta do the timing belt and a load of other things, plus put the front suspension back together, the entire exahust system and a load of other little jobs, but its slowly getting there and at least i have an engine in the car again!
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:26 PM   #40
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Slow progress, again due to work commitments. Ive put everything back on the car now save for the exhaust centre section and back box. All thats left now is to refill the gearbox and engine oil and give it a test run.

I am bricking it that it wont work properly for some reason, i really hope it does though!

If i have it running im going to take it back to des developments so they can replace the rear beam bearings and re adjust the ride height at the rear.

Of course that is providing the front suspension gives me a reasonable ride height, this is an unknown quantity for me as i dont know of anyone running a similar set up on an s1...
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Old 06-10-2006, 08:24 PM   #41
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semtex very kindly drove all the way from telford to my house today, loaded up with various lubricants (he must have been keen!) and we spent an hour or so checking various things on the car to make sure they were all in the right place.

Then with shaking hands the key was turned in the ignition, pump primes, another click on the key and... whirr whirr BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR IT LIVED!!!!

Then it stopped. The alternator wasnt connect up so we put it down to that and reconnected it.

whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr... nothing, not a sausage. Fuel pump wasnt priming either. Oh Bugger.

We look in the engine bay for loose things or unplugged things, nothing obvious. James suggests disconnecting the battery for a few moments and reconnecting it. So we try that..

whirr whirr BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR IT LIVES, PROPERLY!

Im very pleased that i was able to do the whole thing basicly all by myself. This time two years ago all i could do was change spark plugs and i didnt know anything else about cars. A steep learning curve but now its all downhill! (famous last words!)

Theres a few more jobs to do before it can go on the road, and even once drivable it still needs the rear suspension sorting as well.

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Old 07-10-2006, 07:43 PM   #42
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A few more bits and bobs completed today enabled me to take it for a short drive round the block. It feels very strange with the arse end still slammed and the front back to std ride height lol The manifold is blowing like a tornado though so ive still to get that all sorted. At the moment im sort of running it in and will be performing another oil change after a couple of weeks in order to make sure that any particles which found their way into the oilways during the rebuild are removed entirely.
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Old 23-10-2006, 03:06 PM   #43
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well last week myself and james decided to make a last ditch attempt to get the car ready for a trackday at donnington the following day.

Rescuing a rear beam off petes old xsi (cheers lad) we set about swapping over the arb and poly bushes (the dudley spanner came in useful here) and deftly swapped over the rear beam. Pleased with the progress and the discovery that this new beam had braided lines, james departed leaving me to bleed the brakes, which i promptly screwed up. One side went fine, but the other side wasnt quite so easy. The new rear beam had had its nipple sheared off at some point in the past, so i only had the union to use as a bleed point, this union instantly rounded off after i merely waved a spanner in its direction. I was now left with a perfectly functioning rear beam, and no brakes, and less than 30 minutes to do something about it. So i did something about it. I went out for a very nice meal and that was the end of that track day!

The following monday i set about trying to sort the problem, and eventually came about the idea to drill horizontally through the union and thread a bolt into it to give me the leverage required. It worked a treat and the union came out. I then got a replacement union off my old beam, flared a new end on the brake pipe and screwed it all back together. The trusty pressure bleeding kit ensured there were no leaks, and also no bubbles in the line.

Result is an even firmer pedal than i had previously?!?

Today ive fitted an omp upper brace (code 1771) and lower brace which took at least, ohh 15 minutes to do both

Ive not driven it with the braces fitted yet but i recall from my rallye that the lower one made a good bit of difference
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Old 03-11-2006, 06:47 PM   #44
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bit of a setback yesterday... timing belt slipped. From first inspection it looks like the bolt retaining the idler pulley onto the block has managed to undo itself and once it reached about 1cm of looseness, the tension of the belt has bent the bolt causing the pulley to lie at an angle and hey presto, off slipped the belt and clatter clatter dead head!

Sooo its off with head again and time for some new valves, i really feel like treating myself to something nice and shiny for the engine in the process, maybe an early xmas present... ?

oh, and some threadlock
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Old 04-11-2006, 03:27 PM   #45
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im getting good at this, head off in less than an hour, and...

every single valve is bent! each one neatly stuck open as well, im not sure if the head itself is damaged, but ill only be able to tell this once ive tried new valves and see if they sit straight. However im tempted to just use an entire new head with all the valves in place.
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Old 24-11-2006, 09:37 PM   #46
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i am fixing it honest!

i had the head sent off for cleaning and skimming and a basic recon, its now back on the car with most of the bits bolted back on and a new head gasket.

I also tried to fit a VTS style oil/water heat exchanger, but the original threaded insert for screwing the oil filter onto wouldnt come out and i didnt want to trash it in the process incase it never comes out and im left with a knackered bottom end casing!

Still to do,

get new pulley from peugeot
Sort out fire ring gasket
refit strut braces
refit the head and ancillaries
retime the engine
refill with oil and water, cross fingers and start
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Old 27-11-2006, 11:42 PM   #47
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getting there slowly, the rain seems to conspire to time itself exactly with the time off work i have.

Theres probably only about 5 or 6 hours of work left in it but getting those hours, in the dry, in the daylight, is proving hard!

Heres some pics anyway

dead head!


new head!
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Old 21-12-2006, 11:58 AM   #48
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Well.. i fixed it!

The head was back on and the car fluid filled and running for the day before the RR xmas party but as it didnt have an MOT it was stranded on the driveway.

In a strange coincidence pete had also just finished rebuilding his 16v xsi and was also in need of an MOT. So on a cold hungover saturday morning we both travelled to a nearbyish garage and got outselves road legal!

In the end i managed to fit the s1 rallye oil cooler as well

Thing is.. ive been hoping that the front springs i recently fitted would settle in and drop a little in height, and they havent. They are meant to drop a saxo VTS -20m, but on my superlight car they have actually raised it about 20mm from standard! Thing is the rate of the springs is perfect, the ride is nice and firm and controlled. So im in a bit of a quandry as to what to do.

My options are, try and find some new springs from somewhere that will give me the rate and height i want (my mate petes car is the perfect height but i dont know what springs he has, and i dont think he knows either!), get custom springs made up (there is some guesswork involved with this) or get coilovers so i get the rate i want, and the height i want.

It really depends on circumstances, but at the moment, a coilover set up looks most likely
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Old 06-01-2007, 05:39 PM   #49
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Couple of extra jobs finished off now, managed to replace the vast majority of the cambelt cover (had to miss out about 2" of the rear cover in one place) with the pulleys and belts still on.

Ive also begun to chop up a spare dash board in an attempt to make a lightweight 'shell' version that i can still mount the speedo binnicle soldily and still use the std heater controls.

So far ive managed to cut out 2.8kg of extra material from the dash, thats probably about a third of the weight of it. If i went any further than this it would probably start to look weird or become too flimsy. I also wanted to retain the screen demister as this is vital really, i know a number of people who have junked their heaters, and regretted it! A large chunk of the weight came from the rubberised part found directly infront of the passenger. This has been removed and ive cut a flat panel of PVC to replace it. Ive also cut a blank for the drivers side air vent but this isnt shown on the pictures. Its going to be difficult to realise which parts have been removed without a comparison to the original dash so i took a pic of everything thats gone in the bin. And no, i didnt use the scissors to do it all lol







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Old 18-01-2007, 03:29 PM   #50
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If you dont like wiring, look away now!

Ive spent a few hours stripping back the dash loom over the last week or so, just taking it slowly and making sure everything was spot on.

Ive now ended up with a plastic bag with 1.5kg of surplus wiring in it, all the controls and dash still work, ive lost no lights or anything. Basicly what ive been doing is removing all the stereo wiring, the CL and EW wires back to source, relays and other devices attached to these wires and such like. Basicly anything that wasnt connected to anything, has been removed, and a few things like the dash light dimmer, fag lighter etc have all been removed back to source as well. Whilst i was there i also noticed that for some reason, the earth for the fan motor went all the way from the OS to the NS to earth to a dizzy block, and then two big thick wires came from the dizzy block all the way back over to the OS footwell, to earth themselves. So instead ive cut out the earth for the fan and will earth it a few inches away from the motor, and ill also take those two long main earths, and create a new main earth near to the earth dizzy block, which should lose about 3 metres of 16awg cable.

Whilst i was there i also removed the cat 1 toad alarm i had (1.5kg) and will replace it with a flashy light, and an FIA cut off switch.

Next job is to tidy up the remaining wiring, sort out those earths, fix it all in place and put the dash back together. Dammit those scissors have made their way into the picture again!

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