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Old 06-02-2008, 07:58 PM   #1
Aleksandr
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Non-supercharged unsilenced 16v Rallye: 0 Bhp 0 Lb ft

This blog shows the transformation of R494 LJK over the 3 years or so i've owned it, from a completely standard 8v S2 Rallye to a planned 250bhp plus supercharged and caged 16v Rallye track toy.

Here's the near complete spec:

Engine:

Rotrex C30-94 centrifugal supercharger
Rebuilt TU5J4 16v bottom end slightly over bored
Wossner forged low comp pistons
TU5JP4 head with J4 cams, lifters, springs and pullies redrilled to suit the J4 inlet manifold
TU5JP4 cam covers
QEP lightened and balanced flywheel
Helix 6 paddle clutch kit with uprated cover and sprung clutch plate
GMC 4-1 exhaust manifold
Peugeot Sport Group A engine mounts
Pace radiator and one off header tank
GMC Rotrex supercharger bracket with idler pulley and hydraulic additional belt tensioner
Blue Samco coolant hoses
Mocal 13 row oil engine cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate
Mocal 9 row oil cooler Supercharger oil cooler, Rotrex header tank and oil filter
SPA digital Oil temp/oil pressure gauge
Second sandwich plate for the SPA oil temp/pressure gauge
KMS wideband lambda controller with display
DTA S40 Pro ecu
RC Engineering 440cc injectors and 4 bar FPR
600mm x 230mm x 65mm Intercooler
SFS blue intercooler hoses
2.5" intercooler pipework powdercoated black
K&N 3" inlet air filter
TMsport 2.5" bore stainless manifold back system
8v coilpack with Magnecor HT leads
Pug Racing aluminium gear linkages
Griffiths Engineering quick shift

Suspension:

Peugeot Sport Tarmac spec dampers (Fronts shortened roughly 40-50mm with 20mm more thread than standard)
AST camber adjustable solid top mounts
Peugeot Sport strut reinforcement plates
Rally Design Coilover conversion kit
7" 300lb Faulkner springs
18mm front ARB
22mm rear ARB
23mm torsion bars

Brakes:

Front: 306 S16 calipers, 266mm discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads
Rear: Standard


Wheels:

S2 Steels with 185/55/14 Yokohama A539s (Road)

S2 Steels with Bridgestone Potenza semi slicks (track)

Other:

Safety Devices 12 point "cup" cage
Sparco Evo seats
Sabelt 3" 4 point harnesses
Box section seat rails
Carbon doorcards plus various other covers
Aluminium glovebox blank/ECU mount
Rally nuts dished 350mm steering wheel
Odessey 680 dry cell battery mounted behind the passenger seat
Battery isolator switch
SPA Designs digital oil temperature/pressure gauge
Aerocatch bonnet pins
washer bottle relocated to rear nearside quarter
clear side indicator lenses

This is how she stands at the moment.












Pages 1-2 are the cars early days as a pretty much standard car.
Pages 3-4 show the cage going in, a few track days and the start of the supercharger idea.
Pages 5 onwards show the refreshed engine bay, 16v engine swap and all the preparations for boost.


Feel free to comment!

I must have spent about a year to eighteen months looking at the RR longingly, for some reason even though I had never driven or even seen a Rallye in the flesh I just knew I had to have one. After graduating uni and clearing my debts it was time to start looking for a Rallye, I ended up treking down to Reading to see this one and put a deposit down there and then. About two weeks later she was mine! In the background my beloved Polo can be seen, I hope the old girl is being looked after!






Nothing could be done to the car (now known as Fifi) until my insurance came up for renewal except for things like poly bushes, powerflex lower engine mount, a K&N filter element and a new clutch (due to the release bearing failing).





Also toyed with mud flaps for a while and de-wipered the rear because it kept flopping down onto the bodywork.



Also finally managed to get the fog vents fitted (about bloody time!)



Next step the engine bay, the rocker cover was looking a little rusty so a few coats of Bianca white later and it looked like this.



Also managed to snap a stud in the process, doh!

Couple of months later and my insurace came up for renewal, the lovely Mr Flux allows me to mod away without increasing my premium, sooooo first things first on with the RR approved raceland manifold and pugsport exhaust.




Also decided to partially strip out the rear for the fun of it (minus the biking essentials)



Finally plucked up the courage to order these, as all Rallye owners should know, no Rallye is complete without a vibrating dash :P (Group N by the way, wasn't man enough for Group A).



The most recent addition was a Raceland enclosure with a green cotton filter, this took some serious modification to fit but eventually went on. Noticeable difference in throttle response now I think, not to mention the roar!



I'll finish for the moment with Fifi in her natual habitat.



There is much much more to come over the course of the next few months with the build up to the Retour! Those that are on the forum as much as me will have noticed me lurking around the for sale section!
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Last edited by Aleksandr; 25-07-2012 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 28-02-2008, 07:47 PM   #2
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Few more updates:

These have been added



The result being this!





Few more updates to come over the next few weeks. I've bought a dry cell battery so I can move it into the cabin so that needs to be fitted over the course of the next few weeks along with the 266mm brakes shown above. I also need to get round to getting some group N linkages and replacing the roll pin before Fifi's big ring trip in April!
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:48 PM   #3
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Now you see it....




....Now you don't



I've got a dry cell battery bungy corded to my floor at the moment but that will change as soon as I get my battery mount from Dyno. I've also come up with an ingenius idea for mounting my kill switch that just needs finishing off.

I'll put up some more interesting pics once they're all done!
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:59 PM   #4
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good work mate looks really nice
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Old 16-03-2008, 02:08 PM   #5
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Here's a better picture of the lack of battery



Also did a spot of engine bay cleaning Plently more to do though!



And this is where the battery is going to live. It will be mounted properly but this suffices for the moment. Wiring it in wasn't as hard as I thought to be honest. Hardest bit was trying to get the new wiring through the grommet in the bulhead, managed it in the end by curling the end of a bike spoke into a hook and then pushing that through to the engine bay side, hooking the cable on and then pulling it back through.



I've also fitted my 266mm brakes. When I bought them they had been painted at some point in both red and black and this had mostly flaked off leaving a strange rust colour. I realise yellow calipers are particularly chavtastic but I couldn't find black and my steelies hide the brakes anyway. Although I have to say the yellow does look good poking through the cut outs in the steelies!



Although I need to helicoil one of the threads in the drivers side strut as the last owner used the wrong size thread and stripped it. Good to know I've been driving on that for 8 months!

Not really sure what to do next yet. I did bid on some buckets on ebay but thankfully I lost lol I could either do the interior properly or perhaps get that S1 inlet setup i've always wanted. hmmmm
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:33 PM   #6
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Few more small updates. Added my "Dyno racing" parts in the last couple of days and just generally tidied and cleaned things ready for the Retour. Not long now!

Battery mount (living under my passenger seat)



Catch tank




I've also fitted my isolater switch but for some reason the picture it wont upload. It looks great from a distance but horrific up close! I'm thinking some carbon will finish it off nicely.

Apologies for the picture quality, they were taken on a camera phone.

Feel free to comment, would like to know what people think.
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Last edited by Aleksandr; 02-04-2008 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 24-06-2008, 07:55 PM   #7
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My weekend started well, set off for Brighton to pick up a set of Sparco Evos at a more than reasonable price and then...........


this happened



Towed home by the AA with a suspected head gasket failure. What seemed like a major misfire set in on the M25 so I pulled up and called the AA. The AA guy compression tested the engine and cylinder 2 showed zero.

Need to get the head off and have a looksey but at the very least it's going to be a new headgasket and cambelt. Or as much as I hate the idea it could possibly be time for 16v........

I'm trying to figure out what bits I need to put the Rallye back together. Here's my list so far, have I missed anything?

head rebuild pack (gaskets, seals etc) I've seen an XSi one on ebay from 106 parts which I imagine would fit.
valve springs
new rockers (no idea where to get these, I imagine Pug would charge a fortune)
thermostat
cambelt, tensioner and water pump
headgasket (MLS jobbie)
head bolts, worth getting ARP bolts?

The cause of my problems!



My one seemingly new(er) piston (far right)



It also appears I have two new(er) exhaust valves (far right, the other is out of shot)



I'm guessing Mr valve met Mr piston a tad intimately at some point in the last 100,000 miles. Yet another thing the last owner failed to mention

Couple of quick questions.

How on earth does the water pump come out? I've taken out the two bolts but it feels like it's welded in!!

Bits of the old head gasket are stuck to the head, best way to get them off? I don't want to clog up the galleries.

Few pics of my progress so far.

From this.....



to this....



Water pump took a little "persuasion" to come out



I've been trying to clean up the bay a little bit while everything is apart, little bit more blue on show than there used to be!



Looking a little sorry for herself.



This cheers me up a bit though


Last edited by Aleksandr; 24-06-2008 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 24-06-2008, 07:59 PM   #8
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It's not that you've necessarily got newer piston and valve, but if the headgasket was also blowing through on a waterway it could have steam cleaned itself.
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Old 24-06-2008, 08:06 PM   #9
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Few things fell out of the Rallye recently....



Dyno Racing battery mount. Guess how it's held on :P



These then "fell" in. Absolutely love them!





Few other random pics from a little while ago.





I cleaned the arches and resprayed the Steelies before FCS as well as giving her a good ol clean. That was all undone in 30 mins of track time


Now what to do next? Hmmm
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Old 20-08-2008, 08:05 PM   #10
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Nice car mate, i'm thinkin of puttin my battery in the boot or inside. But not sure wot to fasten it down with, or wot wire to use to extend the leads with?
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Old 20-08-2008, 09:51 PM   #11
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Google Vehicle wiring products, that's where I got my wire from. I've held my battery mount on with heavy duty velcro, didn't fancy drilling any more holes!
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Old 20-08-2008, 11:32 PM   #12
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Pete: S2 Rallye engine build thread

Thought i'd make a new blog just for my upcoming engine build. After tackling a head gasket and cambelt change a couple of months ago I wanted to go a step further, originally the plan was going to be to build a monster 8v engine (PH4 cam, GSXR bodies, Sandy inlet etc) out of the car but while I was searching for an 8v engine to use I found a JP4 head for a silly low price on ebay, and then a J4 bottom end appeared on the forum.

So i've gone over to the dark side and gone 16v! I was thinking of building a cammed, big valve (thanks to the JP4), TB'd 16v engine good for around 160-170bhp or so. Today I got a quote from QEP for a set of 708 cams and associated gubbins to make the JP4 head usable, that came to 750! So i'm having another re-think, there's no rush as the 8v will stay in the Rallye right up until the point I switch in this completed engine. I'm starting to have naughty thoughts about superchargers again so who knows what could happen! It seems that the costs of making a TB'd hi-comp engine are pretty similar to making a lo-comp boosted engine.

Any comments, words of wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated, let me know what you think!

Any way, let the blog begin:

A couple of weekends ago I went on a trek around England and Wales collecting a TU5JP4 head and a J4 bottom end. 450 miles later these were sat in my garage.





I then spent the best part of a week of evenings doing this:





This weekend I shall be doing the same to the head (after i'm done hooning around with the guys at Gwynnespeed )




These also appeared on my doorstep in the last week, although they might end up back on ebay again lol.

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Old 21-08-2008, 06:35 AM   #13
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nice one matey,sounds good, good luck with it all
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Old 22-08-2008, 02:17 PM   #14
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Right i've got my paws on a set of VTS cams, just need springs, retainers and lifters now lol. I've also come to a bit of a cross roads....

N/A
GSXR bodies 75
fitting kit 450
cams (708's) 450!
Pocketing pistons + raising compresion by skimming head: No idea, 200-300?

1300ish

Supercharged
Charger kit + bracket, tensioner etc 1800
VTS cams 30

1900ish

I've over simplified both of those options and missed out a whole load of other parts, both would also need standalone mangement, loom building + mapping. So add on another 1000 at least.

The guys at GMC reckon that a J4 bottom end, JP4 head (lower compression than J4) and a 1.5mm J4 gasket would allow me to safely run around 200bhp at the wheels with a Rotrex charger. The N/A setup at best would give me maybe 140 at the wheels?

Hmmmm.....

Also can anyone recommend somewhere in the South East to get my block honed and skimmed?
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Old 22-08-2008, 05:18 PM   #15
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a place called sussex rebores, are really good, i used them building all the engines...
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Old 22-08-2008, 06:04 PM   #16
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i'm supercharging my 16v rallye at the mo its nearly done, but if i was at your stage i'd buy that supercharged engine in the for sale section, it looks like it's just ready to drop in and has the gearbox with diff already, its fun to build your self tho but that is one cheap engine and gearbox for sale
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Old 22-08-2008, 07:13 PM   #17
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Just saved you £75!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Catcams-708-Cams-for-Saxo-VTS-106-GTI_W0QQitemZ170245116575QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item1 70245116575&_trkparms=72%3A1089%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2% 7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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Old 23-08-2008, 10:55 AM   #18
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I'd say N/A Pete, but depends how big a challenge your after!
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Old 23-08-2008, 01:48 PM   #19
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NA is certainly the safe bet imo, of course the only challenges that present itself in any charged option would of course be maintanance costs etc, although tbh ive just spent nearly 4.5k on parts and labour on the car which i dare say i could of supercharged with if you get my drift.

all a case of what your after really, give me some tb's any day of the week though :P
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Old 25-08-2008, 07:12 PM   #20
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I like challenges Half the fun of this for me is building it, it's a toss up between TB induction noise and supercharger chatter lol.

Oh and can anyone suggest a valve spring compressor that will actually fit a 16v head?!
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Old 25-08-2008, 10:41 PM   #21
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But you don't want so big a challenge that you end up selling the thing!
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Old 26-08-2008, 08:19 AM   #22
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But you don't want so big a challenge that you end up selling the thing!
True true, that wouldn't be good!
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Old 22-09-2008, 10:00 PM   #23
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There hasn't been much in the way of updates lately, i've been doing lots of little things rather than big things.

Preparing struts for coilovers:



I got fed up of my (bent) strut brace being hit by the vibrating manifold and causing a horrible noise. So I made a bumper out of an old cambelt. I really should buy a new strut brace!



I've also started to respray my spare steelie as it was yellowed:





Oh and a pic I quite liked from Silverstone:

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Old 22-09-2008, 10:05 PM   #24
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Not much in the way of big updates here either, I can't do anything until I get pistons sorted. I have however resprayed the block. I was expecting a nice gun metal kind of colour but i've ended up with a shiny silver, I might have to paint it again! I beginning to wish i'd bought a complete engine instead of just parts, so i'm on the lookout for a complete gti engine, ideally a nice cheap one with a snapped cam belt or something as I don't need the pistons or valves.

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Old 23-09-2008, 10:27 AM   #25
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A good point made there about not having a challenge so big that you want to sell it all!!

My personal opinion - I had a complete 16v engine ages ago which I bought (can't believe you bought bits and bob's - nightmare!), then bought loads of parts to build it up, bodies, cams etc etc - such a load of hassle and time. Then I decided to sell it all and got another engine, then just got Longmans to supply all he parts and build me a monster. Much easier to get it all done like that. Around the same money too by the time i'd paid for all the bits I needed to build it properly (new cam belt, head bolt, gaskets cams, bodies, pistons etc etc etc) This is partly the reason it's taken me 2 years to do it as I spent so long initially fuckin' around.

My advice would be to buy a complete 16v engine, then either build it yourself once you have all the parts, or pay someone to do it and they supply parts. If you geta newer engine you won't need to worry as much about replacing ancilaries. With mine being so powerful I wanted everything new so there was less chance of it failing somewhere! Either way, be prepared to spend 4 or 5k if you're doing it properly! I remember just my bodies, flywheel and management from QEP was over 2k..
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Old 23-09-2008, 08:43 PM   #26
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A good point made there about not having a challenge so big that you want to sell it all!!

My personal opinion - I had a complete 16v engine ages ago which I bought (can't believe you bought bits and bob's - nightmare!), then bought loads of parts to build it up, bodies, cams etc etc - such a load of hassle and time. Then I decided to sell it all and got another engine, then just got Longmans to supply all he parts and build me a monster. Much easier to get it all done like that. Around the same money too by the time i'd paid for all the bits I needed to build it properly (new cam belt, head bolt, gaskets cams, bodies, pistons etc etc etc) This is partly the reason it's taken me 2 years to do it as I spent so long initially fuckin' around.

My advice would be to buy a complete 16v engine, then either build it yourself once you have all the parts, or pay someone to do it and they supply parts. If you geta newer engine you won't need to worry as much about replacing ancilaries. With mine being so powerful I wanted everything new so there was less chance of it failing somewhere! Either way, be prepared to spend 4 or 5k if you're doing it properly! I remember just my bodies, flywheel and management from QEP was over 2k..
Yeah, as usual I tried to find a cheaper way and failed lol. Still, the JP4 head will be of use to me and that came with a brand new head gasket and bolts to boot. In hindsight I should probably have found a complete engine rather than just a bottom end. I'm looking for a complete J4 engine with a blown headgasket, snapped cambelt etc so if I find one i'll still be quids in as i've got a complete bare engine sat here in parts.


I'm not under any illusions about the potential cost, but at the same time i'm being careful with what I buy. Next up is pistons and rods, then things can get moving.

One more of the block. Still not happy with silver :S



I also got my paws on these goodies. Gigity!


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Old 25-09-2008, 10:23 PM   #27
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1998-CITROEN-S...d=p3286.c0.m14


check it out for a cpmplete engine///
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Old 25-09-2008, 10:52 PM   #28
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Engines should be black
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Old 26-09-2008, 08:19 AM   #29
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Engines should be black
Yeah, I think it's a bit too blinging for my liking.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:09 PM   #30
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Silver is easier to spot oil leaks, most practical colour imo.
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:36 PM   #31
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Interesting.

I'm heavily leaning towards TB's when I go 16v, I'd have to have a drive in a charged spaxo/rallye to make any decision but I do love the sound of TB's and the rush when it comes on cam and takes off.

I may have to have a poke around yours at some point.......
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:58 PM   #32
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Your welcome to have a look, although at the moment it's just an engine in bits! I should have some more updates in the next few weeks. I've got an exam and a 10k run to do first!
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:32 PM   #33
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Spotted you on Lawn Lane this afternoon, looks lovely in the flesh, the clour does look good in a bit of sunshine.
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:10 PM   #34
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Spotted you on Lawn Lane this afternoon, looks lovely in the flesh, the clour does look good in a bit of sunshine.
she's filthy at the moment! That was me sneaking out when I should have been revising (much like now actually) lol.

I should have some updates in the next few weeks, all my time lately has been spent revising for my exam tomorrow and training for the run 10k next weekend.
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:43 PM   #35
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Is that the Hatfield 10k?

I have two college assignments to knock out for next week, insurance renewal to sort out, mot to get done and stuff to put on ebay. I may wash the car and get the odd whoring shot to update my progress thread.

Any clue as to the updates?
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:20 PM   #36
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Is that the Hatfield 10k?

I have two college assignments to knock out for next week, insurance renewal to sort out, mot to get done and stuff to put on ebay. I may wash the car and get the odd whoring shot to update my progress thread.

Any clue as to the updates?
It is indeed, I see a couple of the guys on SSC are doing it too.

let me know if you head out for some photo whoring, i've not got any good pics of mine for ages!

And no clues on updates
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:28 PM   #37
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If I wash it now I may pop up to the Buncefield area, you probably know the warehouse that's a bit warped and twisted as it was right next door.

This one

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Old 12-10-2008, 09:32 PM   #38
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Hats off to you mate, i was gonna do the same. I bought a 16v engine and stripped it completely with the idea of rebuilding it myself. I just wanted to give it a go to say i have tried, but i got to the point where i just wanted an engine lol so i bought a low mileage one, saved loads of hassle and leaves more money for mods.
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Old 24-10-2008, 10:26 AM   #39
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Right, time to get things moving again. I want to swap the J4 valve springs + retainers across to the JP4 head this weekend. Am I ok to reuse the existing collet things that secure the valves to retainer/spring?
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Old 24-10-2008, 10:29 AM   #40
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I've been a busy bee of late, i've resprayed the interior from above the fuel tank back as it was all scratched from months of lugging around downhill bikes. I haven't bothered with the front as it will only get worn out by getting in and out. In hindsight I should have just paid for it to be done professionally as I spent a fortune on rattle cans!! Oh well you live and learn. I've also sprayed my wing mirror caps Indigo which should look good!

I've also had my spare struts blasted and powdercoated and the coilover tubes tacked on. Just need to get the new bearings pressed in now and its coilover a go-go!

Pictures to follow later
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Old 24-10-2008, 12:01 PM   #41
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Assuming they aren't damaged yes.
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Old 25-10-2008, 07:00 PM   #42
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Right few pictures of recent progress.

Firstly, I sprayed the rear half of the interior. Finish isn't as good as I would have liked, but it's much better than the original primer finish in places that Peugeot left.



I also got my struts blasted, powdercoated and the coilover tubes welded on.



These bits are also waiting to go on, just need the bearings pressed in and then I can switch the bilsteins to the coilovered struts.



I gave her a good wash today after several weeks of no TLC, you can also see my freshly painted wing mirror caps.



You can see in this one that the front sits a little high for my liking, I should be able to correct that with the coilovers though. Although i'm not sure as at the moment as the rear sits about 30mm higher than the front (measured at the sill parts of the wheel arches) and lowering the front more would increase that, 15-25mm is supposedly what you need to keep the Rallye's handling like Peugeot intended. A bigger gap between front and rear should increase oversteer though I think? (with the front being lower).





Also a couple of pics from my day at Gwynnespeed God I loved that S1!




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Old 26-10-2008, 05:53 PM   #43
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the S16 carriers are sex
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[CENTER][FONT="Impact"][SIZE="3"][COLOR="Red"]For cheap rolling road runs and full track prep services, pm me![/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR][/CENTER]
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Old 26-10-2008, 06:25 PM   #44
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the S16 carriers are sex
I just accidently edited your post, didn't know I could do that!

The brakes look better when the carriers are on the right way round They need repainting now, brake dust has taken it's toll!
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Old 06-11-2008, 12:00 PM   #45
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I was gona say they are back to front but i wasnt 100%!
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Old 16-11-2008, 08:06 PM   #46
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Firstly, Can I just say hats off to those that work with engines everyday, in particular valve springs, spring compressors and collets! My god what a nightmare!!! So far i've spent 3 hours switching over the exhaust valve springs from the J4 head to the JP4 head. I just need to check quickly that i've switched over everything necessary. The JP4 head has been recently rebuilt so i've left the stem seals in place, i've switched the J4 valve springs (which are shorter than the JP4 items, is this normal?), J4 spring retainers and the J4 lifters. I've used the JP4 collets from each respective valve with the J4 bits. Is that everything? Have I missed anything?

I've also bought a lightened flywheel which should turn up next week and dismantled the complete engine I bought a while ago. Plan is to rebuld the top end myself, get Tweeqd to rebuild the bottom end for me (once I get hold of Wossner for pistons) and then put it all together myself.

Would it be safe to run the engine with low comp pistons and a standard ecu to run it in? Or would I be risking damage? I'm thinking of getting it all swapped over and then run the car in whilst I collect the last few parts to charge it.

Thanks to anyone that reads that!
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Old 20-11-2008, 08:23 PM   #47
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Haven't looked at this for a while, but good to see it still looking good....
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Old 20-11-2008, 09:58 PM   #48
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As soon as I find my PC cable for my phone there will be an update. I've been a busy bee of late!
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Old 23-11-2008, 03:17 PM   #49
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Few pics for those that are interested

J4 cams, valve springs, lifters, pulleys and retainers have now been swapped over onto the JP4 head. Took me fecking ages!! I've also bolted on the J4 thermostat housing and cleaned up the inlet manifold. Just need to get my head drilled + tapped (for the J4 inlet manifold) and source some JP4 rocker covers and the head is done!.

Difference between J4 and JP4 springs and lifters (J4 on the left in both pics)





Cam ladders off and a couple of the JP4 springs removed



Removing the J4 lifters + springs from the J4 head



Now which cam went where......



All sealanted up ready for the ladder to be bolted back down.



All bolted up with coilpack sat in place.



I tell you that makes it look easy, in reality that has taken me a week of evenings to complete. Sorry about the quality of pictures but they were all taken at night, in a garage and with camera phone! lol

Few more updates to come soon
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Old 23-11-2008, 03:41 PM   #50
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A fair bit has happened since the last time I updated this. I've resprayed the interior from the fuel tank back. A year of lugging around downhill bikes had taken its toll on the paintwork + Peugeot didn't paint all of it anyway!! The finish isn't great but it's better than it used to look.

I also swapped my complete Rallye interior for the Streamline track day pack with a chap on the 106OC. The finish of the Carbon isn't as good as I was expecting but i'm loving the look of the car now. Lastly i've tidyed up the wiring by using convoluted tubing and connectors with I think makes a big difference! Next up will be cage + a new fuel hose setup.

Work in progress:



Then a few pics of the result:

















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